1984 Sea King Chrysler

[AverageJoe72]

Hello all, I'm new to join, but have enjoyed reading the forums through a couple of motor rebuilds.
First off, thanks to all who offer their experience and expertise here. There are people who use it!!! We are grateful!
I recently bought this motor and the previous owner told me that he could never get it to run right. It gets spark I sprayed some starting fluid in it and it fired up, so I purchased it.
I bought the rebuild kit for the carb AND the fuel pump. Was curious about the directions for the carb rebuild. I'm not a carb guy and was hoping someone would be kind enough to post some directions?
I removed the mixture screw to clean it, and was curious if there's a stock placement for it (ie tighten it and back it off "X" amount of turns?)
Any advice would be appreciated!
Joe

 

[AverageJoe72]

It's a 9.9 HP.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Most carb air screws are started at 1 1/2 turns out then adjusted in the water in gear.
The idle is about 750-800 in gear motor warm.

 

[AverageJoe72]

Great. Thanks Jerry. I read last night that "all walbro carbs" start at 1 3/4 turns out, but then they referenced carbs with Hi & Lo screws (LMB 229). This one only has one. This gets me close, I hope to get it tuned from there. I'll work on it today after work and see if I can get it tuned

BTW, I assume 40:1 mixture will be ok?

 

[Samu_el]

40:1 will be great. It should be rated 50:1 from the factory but the extra lubrication is recommended. If you did research on YouTube you might’ve found this video. It helped me greatly getting my 15 HP running!

 

[AverageJoe72]

I ran it today with 50:1 and it started up and ran fine... I need to get the idle dialed in though.
One thing that troubled me was the water in the garbage can had a lot of oil in it after I ran it for a while. When I took it out, I saw this...

Not only was water spitting out of the exhaust (as I assume it should have been), but there was also a jet stream of water coming out of the hole I am pointing to as well. Can anyone tell me what's going on here? Should I be alarmed? I'm not sure if it's over-filled with gear lube or if I have a situation where water is getting into the lower end. I'll loosen the FILL plug tomorrow to see if water comes out. What are these two holes?

 

[racerone]

All normal.-----You can not overfill a gearcase.----Those are casting cavity drain holes and normal to see that oil / sludge leaking after running in a barrel.-----In my opinion the oil / lubrication in a 2 stroke is a mystery to many folks.

 

[jerryjerry05]

If the motor was hard starting or there's been a lot of work to get it running?? Then the oily water is normal.
The excess gas evaporates the oil doesn't and ends up in the water.
The gunk draining down is the result of the above mentioned problems.
If your just getting this running after a long set? then change the impeller and then run it and get it hot.
That will burn off the junk.

The top/front screw is the air/fuel mix at idle.
Not a idle set screw.
Air screw needs to be set in the water, in gear. and warm.

 

[AverageJoe72]

Good to know that it is normal. Thanks! Yes, first time running it. It took quite a few pulls (and pumps on the hose) to get it running...truth told had I loosened the cap on the gas can, I could have avoided that rigamarole altogether...

As far as the carb, jerry, there's only one screw to adjust on it. Here's a picture of it...

 

[racerone]

On a 2 stroke ( even in good condition ) some gas and oil goes right through the motor.----It is wasted and that is what collects in the exhaust housing.

 

[Samu_el]

That carb setup looks different but the same rules may apply as that video. That top screw that touches the mag plate should be lined up with the tiny line on the mag plate in the fully closed throttle position. There should be an idle screw on the other side of the engine that connects to the throttle. That will get the idle rpm’s up. Then the mixture screw is the one to keep it idling happy.

 

[AverageJoe72]

Ok, previous carb problems (most likely) worked out. New issues/questions:
DISCLAIMER: I'm an electrician, not a motor guy.
I replaced water pump and lower seal, thinking water and oil coming out of those holes together was bad.
Took a look at electrical system, there was a pinched wired on the new (top cyl) coil. I taped it up and checked gap on what also looks to be new condensers & points.
NOTE: previously, the top plug was fouling (black soot on plug) while bottom looked normal. This is now resolved.
NOW: motor is hard to start, taking more than several pulls with throttle on HIGH to get it to fire up. Once running, it only stays running under high rpm, however it still feels as if it's not at full throttle when I have it wide open and it will gradually increase RPM on it's own then subside. If I lower RPM to anywhere near idle, it dies.
Also, water spews out of those holes as if they were "telltales". See video.
This is a clean motor, seems to be close to being "in tune" but I'm pulling my hair out.

Compression test :
TOP- 87ish
BOTTOM- 82ish
tested each cyl 3 times (10 pulls each time)
Compression not ideal (125 lbs) but still ok?

I'll answer any other questions to the best of my ability.
View attachment VID_20220627_170031921.mp4

 

[Samu_el]

Have you checked if your motor is firing on both cylinders. If it won’t rev up and hard to start and idle, it could be a bad condenser. Try removing a spark plug wire from the spark plug while running. If it shuts off try the 2nd one. If it has no effect, then one cylinder has no spark. It was a bad condenser for me.

 

[AverageJoe72]

Have you checked if your motor is firing on both cylinders. If it won’t rev up and hard to start and idle, it could be a bad condenser. Try removing a spark plug wire from the spark plug while running. If it shuts off try the 2nd one. If it has no effect, then one cylinder has no spark. It was a bad condenser for me.

Haven't tried that exact test, but both plugs are definitely getting spark and they look like they should, not overly rich or lean. if you listen to the video, you can tell it isn't missing either.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Video shows the motor running good.
The screw on the side is the air screw.
It controls the amount of air/fuel mix at idle.
Start at 1 1/2 turn out then 1/8th turns after that to adjust.
Adjusting it can change the rpm's at idle.
IF??? it's running I wouldn't mess too much.
New plugs can make a big difference in the way it runs.