1984 force 125 Leaking tilt and trim?

[slimmer57]

I replaced the main cylinder on the bottom because it was leaking, bad, got it fixed no leaks from there. There are no visible leaks anywhere.
is there any test to see why its leaking down.
It will stay up at random times and random positions then if i touch it at all it will start dropping until it catches again. I filled it up and bled it multiple times check connections and repeated, its not loosing fluid but wont stay put.

Main lift cylinder might be shot but wanted to see if there was some sort of test before i bought a rebuild kit or a new cylinder.

Motor serial number 1258X4A

 

[topgun3690]

https://forums.iboats.com/threads/88-force-85hp-trim-drop-help.620988/ This link is from the stickies at the top of this forum......it shows how to test the different components and isolate them to see where the problem is. Lots of good info in there. Most of the time the leakdown is caused by the check valves in the valve body, and there are instructions for repairing it.

 

[slimmer57]

https://forums.iboats.com/threads/88-force-85hp-trim-drop-help.620988/ This link is from the stickies at the top of this forum......it shows how to test the different components and isolate them to see where the problem is. Lots of good info in there. Most of the time the leakdown is caused by the check valves in the valve body.

Appreciate it I will do my reading!

 

[slimmer57]

https://forums.iboats.com/threads/88-force-85hp-trim-drop-help.620988/ This link is from the stickies at the top of this forum......it shows how to test the different components and isolate them to see where the problem is. Lots of good info in there. Most of the time the leakdown is caused by the check valves in the valve body, and there are instructions for repairing it.

Also I just replaced the tilt and trim pump completely so check valve should be new I also replaced the seals in the trim unit and the bottom so im thinking the main cylinder but I’ll go along with the test to confirm

 

[topgun3690]

Also I just replaced the tilt and trim pump completely so check valve should be new I also replaced the seals in the trim unit and the bottom so im thinking the main cylinder but I’ll go along with the test to confirm

What brand of pump/valve body did you buy?

 

[slimmer57]

What brand of pump/valve body did you buy?

JAE 152053568476 it was leaking down with the old tilt and trim as well I just had to replace it because i broke the valve body trying to remove it

 

[topgun3690]

JAE 152053568476 it was leaking down with the old tilt and trim as well I just had to replace it because i broke the valve body trying to remove it

If you got that one on ebay it could be a China clone, a lot of them are bad right out of the box. Keep that in mind when doing the tests....

 

[slimmer57]

If you got that one on ebay it could be a China clone, a lot of them are bad right out of the box. Keep that in mind when doing the tests....

Was 100% off eBay I will keep that in mind thank you for the help once again

 

[slimmer57]

@topgun3690 whats the best way to get to the tilt cylinder bottom hydraulic line? its right at the bottom on the cylinder and in a bad spot ive been using a small wrench as best as i can

 

[topgun3690]

Yes, that fitting is a little hard to get to......sure don't want to round it off. I use a flare nut wrench on all those hydraulic fittings. Slide it onto the line and slide it up as far as you can.

 

[topgun3690]

Can't remember the size but it is SAE not Metric(as shown in that pic).
You can get a set pretty cheap on Amazon or Harbor Freight or ebay. Worth the money for sure.

 

[slimmer57]

Can't remember the size but it is SAE not Metric(as shown in that pic).
You can get a set pretty cheap on Amazon or Harbor Freight or ebay. Worth the money for sure.

Appriciate it I believe it is 3/8

 

[slimmer57]

I cut and welded a cheap 3/8 socket onto a 10mm wrench perfect to get that one out from under

 

[topgun3690]

Great idea there slimmer.....use that on all the T&T fittings to keep from buggering them up....they have to be pretty tight to keep from leaking.....

 

[slimmer57]

Great idea there slimmer.....use that on all the T&T fittings to keep from buggering them up....they have to be pretty tight to keep from leaking.....

By chance do you know if the grease fittings are pressed in or screw? There all missing the ball in the middle and leak grease

 

[topgun3690]

By chance do you know if the grease fittings are pressed in or screw? There all missing the ball in the middle and leak grease

Just looked at mine......think they are screw in but to be honest I have never replaced one. The balls might be stuck in there.....might try to work a small piece of wire in there and maybe some penetrant....see if they pop back up. Can't see how they could be missing? On all of them? IDK....

 

[topgun3690]

Found a pic of a replacement zerk for mine......looks to be threaded. Part#

22-F213274​

 

[slimmer57]

Found a pic of a replacement zerk for mine......looks to be threaded. Part#

22-F213274​

View attachment 389318

Ok I will try cleaning first see what happens

 

[slimmer57]

@topgun3690 sorry to bother again a couple last questions

When I put the boat in the water I get water like in the bottom of the motor housing I can see it when I take the cover off and drains at a spot close to the boat hull

Last thing is when I put the cover on the idle rpm’s drop a lot I tried to get it to idle about 850-1000 but when I put cover on it idles at like 500-700 if I take it off goes back to 850-100

 

[topgun3690]

If your motor runs different when you put the cowling on, it's probably an exhaust leak causing it to starve for O2.....Check part#5 in this diagram for a hole or tear.....is the idle exhaust boot. Both water and exhaust run through that boot and could cause the exhaust leak and water in there.....next time you run it see if water is coming from that boot.....if leaking is not hard to replace.......