1983 OMC stringer trim diagrams

[torbau]

Looking for electrical diagram and troubleshooting tips for trim problem. The solenoids are mounted on a plate (not in a box) above the intake manifold. Solenoids click but trim motor doesn't run

 

[futz]

Re: 1983 OMC stringer trim diagrams

so what motor is this?

To be clear you are asking about the trim that moves the motor up and down, and not the drive motor that moves the drive up and down?

A simple yes would mean the trim that moves the motor up and down.

 

[torbau]

Re: 1983 OMC stringer trim diagrams

3.8 liter 4 barrel 185HP
yes to your question

 

[futz]

Re: 1983 OMC stringer trim diagrams

you working out of a seloc manual? The motor is froze up pull it out, it sits low and is always getting water on it, the brush's i bet need replacing, ebay has a bunch for sale right now.

Boat parts, do a search tilt motor omc, i just search omc.

 

[torbau]

Re: 1983 OMC stringer trim diagrams

Not working from seloc manual. Just info from other forums. Motor is ok. It was tested separate from system

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: 1983 OMC stringer trim diagrams

With battery disconnected:
Remove the large terminals from the relay and file both sides of each ring terminal shiny.
Then, file both sides of the washer shiny.
Then (most important...) file the side of the nut that faces the washer shiny.

Green wires are for down
Blue is for up

(Green= Grass, Blue = Sky)

Also, remove the two 50A fuses from the barrel fuse holders starboard side of your carburetor, just behind the relays, and emery paper or steel wool the ends of the fuses clean.

 

[torbau]

Re: 1983 OMC stringer trim diagrams

Just took another look at the trim motor. I'm not so sure it is okay. Using an ohmmeter and measuring the wires to ground looks open or at least high resistance. What should this read?

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: 1983 OMC stringer trim diagrams

the wires

what wires?

The two wires going into the motor don't reference ground.
They should read open (more than 1000 ohms) in reference to ground.
But that's not much of a valid test.
It's a bidirectional DC motor.
You could read the armature resistance if you measure green to blue. I don't know what's normal there though... maybe 5 or 10 ohms...
again - not a valid test

An ohmmeter doesn't really have any function in testing that system. It needs to be tested with current flowing (i.e. voltage drop testing)

Those 12V CD motors are simple to take apart and clean the rotor bars and check the brushes. If you haven't had brush ends off motors before, you can take it to a motor shop - they will clean it up - even a vacuum cleaner place can do it real easy.

If rapping lightly on the side of the motor with a wrench makes it work, that's a good sign that the commutator bars need to be dressed.
I just use a strip of emery paper, and then use a seal pick to give a nice score down each separation.

p.s.- I don't think you need to disturb the hydraulics to remove the motor - it should come up and off leaving the reservoir and pump in place..(I *think*)