1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

mswabbie

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Apr 1, 2009
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I am replacing the stringer, transom, and deck in a 1983 Happy Traveler. All the wood in the boat was rotten. All the wood has been removed and I am now ready to start the rebuild. I am curious what resin and glass should I use over the stringer. The stringer is made from 3/4" hardwood plywood with one lap splice. Any help would be appreciated.

DSC02473.jpg

Mid Ships
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Looking aft
DSC02475.jpg

Looking forward
 
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drewpster

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Oct 17, 2006
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2,059
Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

Wow, looks like a nice prep job!

I use polyester laminating resin and 1.5 chopped strand mat with 18 oz. woven roving. Others here recommend poly and a combination fiberglass called 1708. It has a weave that is biaxial (meaning diagonally woven) and it comes with the mat woven to the back of it. 17 oz. roving w/ 08 oz mat or 1708. I have never used 1708 so my facts my be a bit muddled, but I think that is the jist of it.

Personally I like the mat and roving seperate.

Polyester resin is air inihbited and will not cure completely on its surface without sealing it off. Wax is used in the resin. The wax rises to the surface as the resin cures and seals it off alowing it to fully cure. This type of resin is called finishing resin. Most off-the-shelf fiberglass resins from home centers and auto parts stores are finishing resin.

You need laminating resin. Laminating resin does not contain wax. It will remain a bit tacky on the surface allowing for multiple layers to be added after the initial layers have partially cured. On the last layer you can manually add the wax and it will cure completely. This allows for a chemical bond between layers.

I recommend U.S. Composites for marine resins.

hope this helps to get you started, keep looking around, there is tons of info here on the subject.

enjoy
drewp
 

Yacht Dr.

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Feb 26, 2005
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Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

Wow, looks like a nice prep job!

I use polyester laminating resin and 1.5 chopped strand mat with 18 oz. woven roving.

Personally I like the mat and roving seperate.

enjoy
drewp

I know I picked Drewpsters post apart.. ( I dont think its out of context.. ).

I Totally agree with the above quote.

I as well like the mat and Roving woving lams.

However this format of glassing should be done with Speed/quality in mind..

Dont know if I personally would agree using these 2 glass materials for newer people learning glasswork..

I would suggest if you dont have help then forget the mat/woving lam schedule..and stick with 1708.

No .. I mean NO disrespect here Drewpster... Its just imo...

YD.
 

drewpster

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Oct 17, 2006
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Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

Of course no offense taken. mswabbie, The Yacht Dr. has about a hundred years more experience I do in doing glass work, so you may want to heed his advice. I use the mat/ roving seperate because I burnt my beans learning to use these seperately, its personal preference.
As I stated above I have never used 1708 and it may be the bees knees. In fact I plan on cutting my teeth with it next go around on my other project boat.

BTW- YD, take no offense to the 100 years remark, I know you must be at least slightly younger than that. :)
 

mswabbie

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Apr 1, 2009
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Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

Any advice on blowing in closed cell foam after I have the deck installed.
 

mswabbie

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Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

What type of plywood should I use to replace the transom. Thank You
 

ezmobee

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Mar 26, 2007
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Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

Marine grade ply if your flush, exterior grade if you're not.
 

drewpster

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Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

There is a huge debate on that very subject wabbie. You basically want a good grade of plywood that the resin will bond to.

There are those who swear by marine ply. But it is expensive and hard to get in some places. If you live near the coast, it is likely that it is common. The further inland you go, the harder it is to get. You can order it but the shipping is costly along with the cost of the ply itself. ($80-$100 a sheet + shipping)

Some like to use exterior grade treated ply. The trick with this stuff is you have to get dry sheets or buy it and let it dry or the resin can fail to bond.

Exterior grade MDO plywood is said to be the ticket. It is a fabricated form of plywood made with an exterior glue and is used to make road signs. I have no experience using MDO myself, but there are those who say it is the best option.

I used "marine grade" ply in my transom. But looking back at it I think I was duped by the retailer that sold it to me. For my stringers and deck I used plain old ACX ply from the home center. I was frustrated with the whole debate. ACX is a good quality plywood that has a sanded face on one side and a rougher side. Being that it is not one of the wonder plywoods that everyone seems to talk about, I spent extra time making certain that everything was sealed as well as I could get it. I concentrated on doing good glass work so water is kept out. I bet it will last for another 30 years or so. I will let you know.

I made the decision to go with ACX based on advice given to me by a friend who worked for a boat building company for 11 years. He is a co-worker of mine. He basically said "the core does not matter as much as the glass work, stop fretting over it. As long as you use a good quality plywood and seal it properly, it will be fine". My advice, go get some ACX at Home depot, get the glasswork done right, and be all means, don't fret over it. ;)
 

mswabbie

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Apr 1, 2009
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Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

I am now ready to start putting the boat back together. My first step is to glue the transom together to make one piece. The transom is being made from three pieces of 1/2" exterior plywood. I am going to seal the plywood with polyester resin, then glue the pieces together with expoxy resin. I would appreciate any comments on this procedure. Thank You
 

mswabbie

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Apr 1, 2009
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Re: 1983 Happy Traveler 16 foot stringer, transom, and floor repair

I am ready to mix my resin and start fiberglassing. The instructions say to use 14 drops of hardener per one ounce of resin. I am going to mix in 16 ounce batches. This means I need 224 drops of hardener. Is there a easy way to measure drops, instead of counting out 224 drops. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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