1982 Johnson 50 Sea Horse - Constant Beep While Accelerating

[Elessar_94]

You stated on post 28 that those bolts were removed.

Which is it?

My bad, in post 28 the bolts I was referring to were the ones holding in the zinc anode above the trim tab and the long bolt just outside the trim tab. I thought those were it, but according to the parts list attached to my serial number on CrowleyMarine there is another bolt hidden underneath the trim tab. The trim tab is stuck due to the rounded bolt.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

My bad, in post 28 the bolts I was referring to were the ones holding in the zinc anode above the trim tab and the long bolt just outside the trim tab. I thought those were it, but according to the parts list attached to my serial number on CrowleyMarine there is another bolt hidden underneath the trim tab. The trim tab is stuck due to the rounded bolt.

Then you said it dropped down a bit when you got the shift linkage apart?

If the case hasn't moved down then.....then your shaft might not be stuck. I'd rather deal with a rounded off bolt WAY more then a dealing with a stuck shaft.

 

[Elessar_94]

Then you said it dropped down a bit when you got the shift linkage apart?

If the case hasn't moved down then.....then your shaft might not be stuck. I'd rather deal with a rounded off bolt WAY more then a dealing with a stuck shaft.

It hasn’t budged at all yet unfortunately. I agree though, there’s still a chance the LU may drop if I can get under this trim tab. One of the 4 main bolts also snapped due to rust/corrosion but I don’t think that one is going to be an issue. I’m considering just drilling a big hole through the trim tab because it’s already old and brittle.

Edit for clarity: the tip of the smaller shaft at the top under the carbs where the pin gets unscrewed is moving back and forth since I pulled that pin, that is what I meant earlier.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

You need to heat the snot out of the part that that bolts to. Vice grips.....try to tighten it first. Keep heating, back and forth.

Patience.

 

[racerone]

I doubt you will find a hidden bolt under the trim tab !

 

[Elessar_94]

I doubt you will find a hidden bolt under the trim tab !

Ah I think you’re right. Looking at the diagram again Part 79 wouldn’t reach all the way up to the exhaust housing anyway.

I think we are stuck then, because all 4 main bolts are out (one broke in half), Part 68 (long bolt) is out, the anode is out, and the shift rod is detached under the bottom carb. It must be fused to the crankshaft as was suggested earlier

EDIT: Unless Part 79 is set in a recessed cavity, which is entirely possible - I am reading around some forums. On a ‘92 Johnson 150 people were advising to remove the trim tab to reveal a hidden bolt…

 

[racerone]

The anode did not need to come out !----A 150 HP is not quite the same 50 HP either.

 

[Crosbyman]

Certainly not.... I messed up on my 75hp mistakenly unbolting the anode(#75) and snapped the head flush. Unable to hacksaw the the bolt (no space) I resorted to drilling out the anode till it broke apart ...got a new one from Amazon.... ( 2 types of metal for the anode.....and of course I ordered the wrong one... thankfully Amazon shipped me the other kind and.. I got a freebie. )

 

[tphoyt]

Do you or a friend have a welder? You could weld another nut on the rounded off head and give that a try. The heat that’s applied helps as well. As for the other broken bolt you would be surprised how much holding power that has even without the head on it.

 

[Elessar_94]

Certainly not.... I messed up on my 75hp mistakenly unbolting the anode(#75) and snapped the head flush. Unable to hacksaw the the bolt (no space) I resorted to drilling out the anode till it broke apart ...got a new one from Amazon.... ( 2 types of metal for the anode.....and of course I ordered the wrong one... thankfully Amazon shipped me the other kind and.. I got a freebie. )

Lol I too broke one side of the anode (the bolt is fine tho luckily). I found a replacement unit but will hold off ordering for now. If I can’t get the LU off there’s no point in throwing more money at this motor.

Will be contacting more marine mechanics in our area this week for assistance.

 

[Elessar_94]

Do you or a friend have a welder? You could weld another nut on the rounded off head and give that a try. The heat that’s applied helps as well. As for the other broken bolt you would be surprised how much holding power that has even without the head on it.

Good idea but unfortunately no welding access here. I have heard that’s one of the best methods for removing a rounded bolt. I suppose I could try drilling out that broken bolt though.

 

[racerone]

You have to heat the aluminum that the bolt threads into !-----Aluminum expands ( 0.000011" / per degree F / inch ) at twice the rate of steel.----Therefor the hole and threads get bigger and let go of the bolt.

 

[Crosbyman]

why not just drill out the bolt head... work on dropping the GC and.... you can work on the remains of the headless stud to work it loose with heat and/or a release agent.

you still have to work the splines in the PH ... planning to flip it drill it and oil it ?

good winter project

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Part 79 goes to the zinc...

Part 68...
Where does that go

 

[racerone]

Goes to the exhaust housing.----And post #46 says #68 is out

 

[saltchuckmatt]

It would appear bolt 66 goes to the exhaust housing.

 

[racerone]

There are 4 bolts ( item #66 ) he has 3 of them out with 1 broken off.------Now the one that is broken off could be jammed with aluminum oxide.----Heat can be applied there to possibly break up the corrosion products.

 

[Elessar_94]

Correct. Here are some pics of what I’m dealing with. Guess I’ll try applying heat because getting a drill in there at that angle would be tough.

I’m leaving the trim tab alone for now since I’m hearing there’s likely no bolt under it.

 

[racerone]

After seeing this broken bolt ---that is not the issue.----Get the trim tab off !!

 

[Crosbyman]

if all else fails... & that trim tab seems to have a hole in it already..get a sharp chisel. and hammer it should split being soft metal... access the bolt head to work on it .. but a new tab and bolt if the GC can be dropped
.
desperate problems need desperate measures....