1982 50hp dies when throttle applied

[Tally Marx]

Hey y’all,

1982 E50BELCNR

So I’m trying to figure out why my engine goes into a slow like mode whenever I apply the throttle. It will idle very well and I can even open the throttle on the linkage and raise the rpms and she sings. But if I use the throttle cable then it’s all over.

Some things I know: High temp alarm horn is not plugged in. Thermostat is wired correctly up to the horn but I am unsure if it works. Could these systems create a stop from running?

There is no tan wire or temp sensor wire going to my power pack and I don’t believe there should be. I have an electrical schematic and the wires going into the power pack are all correct. Also, I don’t know if the power pack is working properly, it seems to be stock.

Spark plugs do get spark, but possibly faint? They are 2 years old. Carbs are rebuilt, fuel pump is brand new.

As I said, she starts right up no problem. Idles great, never skips a beat. If I use my finger to push the throttle linkage she sings and sits right back at idle without hesitation. But if I use the remote throttle at the helm, no bueno. Automatically starts to bog and rumbles and at full throttle cuts out. I have a video, I could possibly post a link? Any thoughts would help, thanks in advance!

Last thing: I do have the remote control lever opened up, that’s how I found alarm horn not wired in. That does work btw, 12v direct to it and it buzzes. But maybe I need to adjust something in there??

 

[juno pierrat]

no slow mode on 82' motors, no adjustments for temp alarm. to test, key on, there is a connection by sensor , ground it should sound alarm, in remote one wire of alarm goes to 12 volts from key switch the other to brown just like at sensor on motor

 

[racerone]

Flywheel key checked ?-----Is the motor running on both cylinders.------Post compression numbers.----Should be 140 PSI or more. -----Motor should not be run with overheat horn disabled !----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" or more on a test device ?-----High speed jets in the BOTTOM of the float bowls confirmed clean ?

 

[Tally Marx]

Flywheel key checked ?-----Is the motor running on both cylinders.------Post compression numbers.----Should be 140 PSI or more. -----Motor should not be run with overheat horn disabled !----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" or more on a test device ?-----High speed jets in the BOTTOM of the float bowls confirmed clean ?

Happy Independence Day to our Great Nation everyone!
I did get a compression check completed, I only ran the engine over for 2-3 seconds and both cylinders hit 110 without hesitation. I imagine I could have ran it to 5 seconds and I would have gotten a higher reading. Both cylinders were at the same numbers so no difference between the two.
Compression check isn’t hard so I will do it again and look for higher numbers. When I did pull the spark plugs I measured the gap and they were definitely short. SELOC manual says they should be .040” but both spark plugs measured .028” - do you think that could be part of the problem? I’m going to pull the carbs again this week and check the high speeds orifices in the bowls and make sure they are clean completely. Will post back with results, thanks again for all the help folks!

 

[juno pierrat]

.30 is commonly used on many motors

 

[racerone]

They will run fine at 0.028", or 0.030" , or 0.040" gap is not that important.-----Those compression numbers are not good.----Test again with good gauge and fully charged battery.---Or pull cylinder head.----A head gasket is cheap.-----Check the flywheel key.