1980's sundancer 250 stringer layout

boatman37

Lieutenant
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,273
anyone on here ever done a sundancer 250 (1986 to be specific) stringer and transom replacement? i have no indication that mine has any issues but trying to get my list of winter projects lined up. i plan to inspect it very closely and fix/replace anything that needs done. i resealed all thru transom screws/bolts this spring and everything there looked and felt solid. i thought about pulling the engine this winter just for general cleanup and repainting the bilge so would inspect closer then. worst case scenario what is involved? time and cost? what is the stringer configuration?
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
boatman37, if you been on these forums for a while, you know "looks good" isn't a final decision. You have to do a few low areas core samples to determine if any wood in any boat is sound and dry. If you sample the lowest area of your transom and drill inspection holes, if you get light colored dry wood shavings, then and only then is your transom good. But if you get any dark colored wet shavings, the transom needs replaced. Same with the flooring and stringers regardless how solid they sound. Visibly looking and knocking on such things in a boat, is not the best way to determine quality dry wood underneath. Core samples are the only positive way to determine that. JMHO

However, if you do determine you have to replace any of those wood areas, you have come to the absolute best place to get help and instructions to fix your boat. Costs are totally depended on what is being replaced and how big the project will be. But doing the actual work yourself greatly reduced that cost.
 

boatman37

Lieutenant
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,273
agreed on the core samples but to get to the lowest spot possible i think the engine has to come out? i can barely touch the transom below the keyhole let alone drill it...lol. i do plan to do core samples but more or less looking for an idea of the layout and work involved if i do need to go that route so i can start planning. the biggest hurdle is finding a place to work on it over the winter indoors. my best guesstimation is the total height is about 9'6" on the trailer. my garage door is only 8'...lol. hoping everything tests out good but want to plan for the worst. as far as i can see it looks like the stringers stop at the aft cabin? so a full job would only involve going to there and nothing in the cabin? or do the outer stringers run all the way to the front?

another winter project is to remove the cabin windows and hatches and completely rebed those. i have not found any leaks but want to stay ahead of

and agreed, iboats is the best place for guidance, which is why i am here. part of me says to do it either way just so i know everything is new regardless of core samples if it isn't that big of a job. i used to have some classic cars and restored/replaced everything when i did them. guess that is my mentality. all work would be done by me
 
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