1980s mercury 115 tower of power issues!

Jonboy123

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I honestly don't know. I swear he said slip seal but he could've meant either of those I guess. He said they'd have to split the whole thing apart and doesn't even think he could get the parts because you can't really find parts for these anymore. Said it would cost more than it's worth. I called our local marine mechanic today that I haven't used before and they said they wouldn't even work on it because it's too old so idk
 

racerone

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Your location ?-----Correct , the cost of labor makes rebuilding a thing of the past at many shops.-----Saw 2 of the 6 cylinder towers at a shop a few weeks ago.----Might be available cheap for parts.
 

Jonboy123

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I live in Kansas smack dab in the middle. Now I was just out tinkering trying to adjust the carbs with muffs on and I discovered something no one had explained to me. Let me see if I'm correct. Does each carb kind of run itself at certain speeds? Like my bottom one seemed to operate the idle speeds and some of the lower speeds. The middle is lower through upper middle and the top seems to be somewhat all but the very bottom idle? I've honestly really felt like the carbs have been the biggest issue. But if I wasn't getting the proper fuel then the adjustments would be off. It idled great with muffs and ran like a demon at top and middle but I know it will need some more tweaks once it's got a load on it in the water
 

racerone

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Each carburetor feeds 2 cylinders.-----Top carburetor feeds #1 and 2 only , right from idle to full throttle..---Each cylinder has it's own sealed crankcase.-----Air that goes in the bottom carburetor can not find it's way to the #1 and 2 cylinders !
 

Chris1956

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I do not think your mechanic is well versed on inline 6 engines. Not all his fault as those motors are usually older than the mechanic. Il6 motors do not have slip rings. They have labyrinth seals, which seal the crankcases individually, as required by a 2 cycle engine. These fail, but do so rarely.

Your OEM fuel pump is what you want to use. An electric one invites danger, as it will still keep pumping if the motor stalls. Rebuild your OEM fuel pump with all new gaskets. New check valves and gaskets are a good idea as well. Make sure the transfer covers when the fuel pump bolts on are not leaking.

When you cleaned the carb, did you remove and clean the idle restrictor tube? It is Merc's term for idle jet. There are pinholes in the carb throats that are the idle circuit. These need to be clean as well. Did you rebuild the carbs with new gaskets, inlet needle and seat and floats? If not, you should do that. These are std maintenance items. Set the carb float levers to be parallel with the carb bowl cover, when inverted.

Set the idle mixture to 1-1/2 turns open. Adjust on the water, in gear for smooth acceleration. You will likely need to richen the mixture about 1/2 turn to achieve that. The lower carb will naturally run a bit richer, so not need that much adjustment.

Check the engine wiring for bad insulation. If compression is good, and insulation is bad, replace the wiring harness. Do you have spark on all 6 cylinders? Have you checked the Link and Synch on that motor? If not, it needs to be done.

If spark plugs look real clean, you could be getting water into the cylinders. if lower cylinders only are affected, lower crankshaft seal is likely culprit. Upper cylinders getting water indicates warped of holed baffle or inner water jacket cover. Hopefully that is not your issue?

Fresh water motor means water infiltration much less likely.

An OEM service manual will help tremendously.
 

Jonboy123

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I do not think your mechanic is well versed on inline 6 engines. Not all his fault as those motors are usually older than the mechanic. Il6 motors do not have slip rings. They have labyrinth seals, which seal the crankcases individually, as required by a 2 cycle engine. These fail, but do so rarely.

Your OEM fuel pump is what you want to use. An electric one invites danger, as it will still keep pumping if the motor stalls. Rebuild your OEM fuel pump with all new gaskets. New check valves and gaskets are a good idea as well. Make sure the transfer covers when the fuel pump bolts on are not leaking.

When you cleaned the carb, did you remove and clean the idle restrictor tube? It is Merc's term for idle jet. There are pinholes in the carb throats that are the idle circuit. These need to be clean as well. Did you rebuild the carbs with new gaskets, inlet needle and seat and floats? If not, you should do that. These are std maintenance items. Set the carb float levers to be parallel with the carb bowl cover, when inverted.

Set the idle mixture to 1-1/2 turns open. Adjust on the water, in gear for smooth acceleration. You will likely need to richen the mixture about 1/2 turn to achieve that. The lower carb will naturally run a bit richer, so not need that much adjustment.

Check the engine wiring for bad insulation. If compression is good, and insulation is bad, replace the wiring harness. Do you have spark on all 6 cylinders? Have you checked the Link and Synch on that motor? If not, it needs to be done.

If spark plugs look real clean, you could be getting water into the cylinders. if lower cylinders only are affected, lower crankshaft seal is likely culprit. Upper cylinders getting water indicates warped of holed baffle or inner water jacket cover. Hopefully that is not your issue?

Fresh water motor means water infiltration much less likely.

An OEM service manual will help tremendously.
I didn't rebuild the carbs but ran a whole can of carb cleaner through them. I'm not really sure I could rebuild them. I'm mechanical but that's a tad touchy for me. I adjusted the carbs in a tank today and I think I got em about right but they kinda jump around so it's hard to tell. The pee coming out is pretty hot at times so I'm wondering if it's overheating as it seems when I run it for a while that's when it starts acting up the most. Gonna check spark tomorrow. It seems like it runs to well when it does run to be something like that. I really wonder about the floats in the carb bowls but once again I'm kinda new to outboard mechanics
 

jimmbo

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I didn't rebuild the carbs but ran a whole can of carb cleaner through them. I'm not really sure I could rebuild them. I'm mechanical but that's a tad touchy for me. I adjusted the carbs in a tank today and I think I got em about right but they kinda jump around so it's hard to tell. The pee coming out is pretty hot at times so I'm wondering if it's overheating as it seems when I run it for a while that's when it starts acting up the most. Gonna check spark tomorrow. It seems like it runs to well when it does run to be something like that. I really wonder about the floats in the carb bowls but once again I'm kinda new to outboard mechanics
Spraying copious amounts of Carb Cleaner in the the carb really does F all, except cleaning the Throat, and Throttle Valve, and reeds. To clean the Carb it needs to be removed, disassembled, and subjected to the Cleaner. The Floats on those Tillotson Carbs have tendency to get stuck(at least the ones in my 84 115 did), resulting in flooding. A bit of Gentle Persuasion with a small Hammer on the carb body/fuel bowl would dislodge them.
The only time I recall my 115 having hot water out of the Tel-tale was right after a WOT run on a Hot summer day, it would cool down in about a minute
 

Jonboy123

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Spraying copious amounts of Carb Cleaner in the the carb really does F all, except cleaning the Throat, and Throttle Valve, and reeds. To clean the Carb it needs to be removed, disassembled, and subjected to the Cleaner. The Floats on those Tillotson Carbs have tendency to get stuck(at least the ones in my 84 115 did), resulting in flooding. A bit of Gentle Persuasion with a small Hammer on the carb body/fuel bowl would dislodge them.
The only time I recall my 115 having hot water out of the Tel-tale was right after a WOT run on a Hot summer day, it would cool down in about a minute
Quick question. What would happen if the enricher valve was bad? What kind of symptoms would I be looking at?
 

racerone

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If it did not work , motor would be hard to start.----If it was stuck open motor would flood / run rough.
 
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