1980 Evinrude, 35 HP General Questions with pictures

[UConnMRB]

Thanks guys.. The model # is E35RLCS. Today I plan on adjusting the collar, using the manual as a guide. It seems pretty straight forward. I might be interested in adding charging, but to be honest, this motor is a little under powered for my boat so I might just run it for a season to two and upgrade to something a little larger.

 

[bonz_d]

Good call on the starter Chinewalker. With the different color paint in the starter bracket and lack of a rectifier, instrument cable with the red plug for the remote I was suspicious that this was originally a manual rope start engine and someone added a starter.

UC read over that manual fully and carefully. At this point it's hard to tell just what was changed inside that engine or if it was done correctly.

 

[UConnMRB]

The manual is my bible. The good thing is that I have been in the boat running this motor so I know, at one point, that the way working being set up the way it is.

 

[UConnMRB]

I havent had much time to get the throttle control rod adjusted (I have a 6 week old at home), however I have had plenty of time to wonder about things....so I have some basic, novice questions. This motor was on a boat that was very simple in design. No gauges were present, just a few toggle switches, ignition switch and horn. My thinking is this is a very simply designed outboard without a lot of thrills. So question #1: Can gauges for RPM, temp, etc be added? The manual mentions tracking RPMs for a few different tests, so maybe thats a possibility? I dont really want to tap into the engine to add temp sensor or anything, so are any of these native to this motor? Question #2 is related to the key switch: Because this starter was added aftermarket, I am thinking that the key switch/ignition is pretty simple. Am I right to assume that the starter will be engaged if the circuit is simply completed? Not that I want to do this, but if a toggle switch was rigged to the starter, would that work? A lot of the aftermarket key switches I am finding have 5-6 leads to them...not sure how to wire one of those for this simple set up.

Sorry for the rambling thoughts/questions and any help is always appreciated.

 

[bonz_d]

Matt, I am not familiar with how the starting system is wired on a tiller motor but on the remote motors there is a wire harness to the motor that goes to the starter solenoid and the ignition/coils, this all comes together into a big red plug. That plug then goes to the remote and ignition switch.

I'm sure you could rig something up for the starter with a normally open momentary push button switch. You would also have to add the same for the choke. A tach also shouldn't be a problem. Temp gauge not normally on 2 cycle outboards.

If this is something that you really want to do then it might be easier to start looking for a donor motor that has electric start and to then strip the wiring from it.

Are you going to use this as a remote steer or tiller steer?

 

[UConnMRB]

This will be a remote steer. From what I can tell, the wiring for the starter is very simple...no harness like you mentioned. From what I can gather, the original start push button on the motor was just removed the wires from that were extended to the key switch in the dash.

 

[UConnMRB]

Sorry I am wrong....obviously there was no original push to start button because it was a rope start....

 

[UConnMRB]

In Post #3 and #9 there is the thick dark red wire attached to the black square box (solenoid?). That leads to the fuse panel or battery (or it did until I gutted everything). I cant recall exactly as I am not home right now, but I believe there are 2 wires that lead to the starter and 2 more that lead out the back of the motor that are just hanging loosely. I think there are 1 or 2 ground wires somewhere in that mix too.

 

[Chinewalker]

Your motor lacks the charging system, so by extension, it would not be able to use a standard tachometer as they run off the pulse from the charge coils. However, it might be possible to use an inductive tachometer that feeds off the spark plug wire, .ie a Tiny Tach.

 

[UConnMRB]

Wow, thanks Chinewalker, I had no idea what a Tiny Tach was. It seems they are pretty affordable too. That will def be something I will get and see how well it works. It appears most are used for diagnostics, as the lead wires are short on most I saw, but I am sure I can extend them.

So I am thinking about using just a momentary push button for the starter activation. Bonz - You mentioned getting a button for the choke as well. I know there is a manual choke knob on this motor, but is that something that can also be done with a button?

I assume too that I will wire the stop button/kill switch to the dash via a button. First, I need to get the stop button rewired so it works.

So possibly, one push button to choke, one to start and one to stop. I am sure there are other options instead of momentary buttons. Maybe just a key switch is the way to go.

I know, ideally, I would want a key to start the motor, but it also has a rope start on it, so if someone wants to steal it, then they can just pull the ole rope and drive her away.

 

[bonz_d]

So I am thinking about using just a momentary push button for the starter activation. Bonz - You mentioned getting a button for the choke as well. I know there is a manual choke knob on this motor, but is that something that can also be done with a button?

I assume too that I will wire the stop button/kill switch to the dash via a button. First, I need to get the stop button rewired so it works.

So possibly, one push button to choke, one to start and one to stop. I am sure there are other options instead of momentary buttons. Maybe just a key switch is the way to go.

I know, ideally, I would want a key to start the motor, but it also has a rope start on it, so if someone wants to steal it, then they can just pull the ole rope and drive her away.

1st you should find out if that engine has and electric choke. If not then don't worry about it. Use the manual choke. A 3 position toggle switch is another option, though one position would have to be a momentary switch. So that the middle position would be run, one position would be start and the other would be off. Or a 2 position toggle and a separate kill button.

 

[UConnMRB]

Thanks Bonz. I do not know what I would do if knowledgeable people were not on this site to help. Sometimes its nice just to bounce ideas off of people.

 

[bonz_d]

. Sometimes its nice just to bounce ideas off of people.

Yes it is. Have done it many times myself. Very useful resource!