1977 Evinrude 175hp. Is it worth fixing?

[Kaze]

Racerone suggested I start my assessment of an old boat by trying to see if the motor was worth fixing.
I did the compression check this morning. Engine doesn’t start, so it was a cold check. All six cylinders read between 110 and 112. Drained the lower unit oil, and it did have a tiny bit of milky oil come out at first, maybe a teaspoons worth. The rest was a dark green color. It also had a little trash in it. Not very much at all, and I couldn’t find it in the drain pan. Maybe if I sifted it with a coffee filter or something. Of course, it’s a bit cold here in Nashville, about 50 degrees this morning, so I’m thinking some of the “trash” I saw was just cold/thick fluid. I found one bit of metal shaving on the drain plug magnet as well.
What do you guys think? Does this sound like the engine passes the first test?


Couple of questions;
I thought I had bought lower unit oil, but I didn’t and I pretty much drained it empty. Can it sit like this for a week or so before it gets filled back up, or do I need to quickly get some new oil in there? Is lower unit oil engine specific?

 

[racerone]

You can leave gearcase empty.----Get the right oil when you pick up the new water pump parts.----Compression test can be done on a cold engine.----Numbers are even so a good sign.-----Check for spark.----Motor must crank fast to check for spark.----If motor was stored with fuel in carburetors they must be cleaned.

 

[Kaze]

the carburetors are on the “to do list”. Also all the fuel lines, and I have to figure out a way to get the metal fuel tank cleaned. Apparently the fuel tank has sludge and trash in it,

 

[Kaze]

Next step is to test for spark and then go ahead and re-do the fuel system/carburetors, is that right? Then the lower unit/water pump impeller system? Then see if it runs?
I’m just trying to get a game plan together. If I do these things and it turns out that the motor is still good, I’m leaning toward the full boat restoration rather than look for someone else’s problem boat. Thanks racerone for your help and advice.

 

[tphoyt]

On the right track. Get some lube in the cylinders for your spark test even it it’s just Wd-40.
And have fun with the project.

 

[Kaze]

This may seem like a dumb question but…

The clymer shop manual isn’t specific for this motor. How do you figure out what gearcase your dealing with, mechanical, hydro mechanical, and mostly what I’m after is what lower unit gear lube I’m supposed to use. Is there a resource out there where I might find information specific to the 175 Evinrude? Need to buy some and some new plug gaskets.

 

[Kaze]

I think it’s supposed to be this

 

[racerone]

If it shifts to FORWARD with a DOWN motion of the shift rod it is a hydro-mechanical shift.-----If the lower unit is original it has the Hydro-mechanical shift lower unit.-----Uses oil pressure to shift smoothly and easily.-----Yes HI-VIS oil is correct.

 

[oldboat1]

I would be concerned about using a tank and lines that are badly contaminated. A plastic tank and lines would a good investment while you try to resurrect the motor.