1976 OMC stringer electric control box removal

[freeflyfool2000]

Hey there. I have what I hope is a dumb question. I am currently trying to remove the side mount control box due to a suspect electric shift switch. (Not getting 12v to fwd blade wire while in fwd shift position).

I removed the knob for neutral/shift cutout, then removed the snap ring thinking the shaft would then push out the back and let the box drop down for access. It isn't coming loose. Removed the 3 screws too. I assume they didn't build the boat around the control box...so what am I missing? Do I need to find a way loosen the inner piece with the angled notches? If so, do I need a special tool or will common tools work?

Again, I'm sure this is a dumb question, I just don't want to break anything.

 

[freeflyfool2000]

Hey there. I have what I hope is a dumb question. I am currently trying to remove the side mount control box due to a suspect electric shift switch. (Not getting 12v to fwd blade wire while in fwd shift position).

I removed the knob for neutral/shift cutout, then removed the snap ring thinking the shaft would then push out the back and let the box drop down for access. It isn't coming loose. Removed the 3 screws too. I assume they didn't build the boat around the control box...so what am I missing? Do I need to find a way loosen the inner piece with the angled notches? If so, do I need a special tool or will common tools work?

Again, I'm sure this is a dumb question, I just don't want to break anything.

 

[freeflyfool2000]

Attaching a few more pictures with screws removed. Also showing pic of handle with p/n 60498, which appears to be a mercruiser handle but I can't find part numbers for the control box itself.

 

[freeflyfool2000]

Attaching a few more pictures with screws removed. Also showing pic of handle with p/n 60498, which appears to be a mercruiser handle but I can't find part numbers for the control box itself.

I am also finding handles with same P/N listed on Ebay as a M2a Morse handle, but again no info on the control box itself or how to remove. I'll poke around with it after work. Hopefully the inner nut thing is the ticket. Will try a punch and hammer lightly to see if it turns.

If anyone has experience with a similar control, I would appreciate any help you can offer.

 

[kenny nunez]

To separate the control from the mounting bezel get a punch and a hammer and un screw the center ring nut, it is a right hand thread. A few taps usually will loosen it.
I believe there are some of those tubular switches on e bay. First check it with an ohm meter, the problem may be elsware.

 

[freeflyfool2000]

To separate the control from the mounting bezel get a punch and a hammer and un screw the center ring nut, it is a right hand thread. A few taps usually will loosen it.
I believe there are some of those tubular switches on e bay. First check it with an ohm meter, the problem may be elsware.

Awesome, thanks for the help. I got the control box loose, but I am second guessing going fwd.

The control box is a marmac electric shift, PN# M-1093-D2 which uses a different shift switch than what I have on hand as a spare. Anyone know if this control box switch is serviceable? Access is very limited, I don't want to pull fully unless I can fix or replace. If I can't I may just run new shift wires to a 3 position toggle as a temp fix until parts are found at a reasonable price.

 

[kenny nunez]

What makes you think that the switch is at fault? There is a feed from the ignition side which will be red or purple, 2 white wires which are the neutral start, if there are green and blue wires, green is “go,” blue is “back up.”

 

[freeflyfool2000]

Only reverse position sends 12v to shift wire. Fwd position is dead. I just wired up a temp 3 position toggle for shifting and all seems well. My ohm check on the drive coils are (3.6-3.8) which are a bit lower than other people have posted and what the seloc manual calls for but it seems to lock. I plan to give her a test under load in the next week.

 

[froggy1150]

My controls are different. 1 for gas and 1 for fwd/n/Rev.
Has the same switch though. I was able to get apart. Had to split the glued halves.... gently. Cleaned contacts and glued back together and then put some heat shrink around it. Now that I know the maker I might just buy one for a spare....