I don't understand?I installed everyting correctlly and it leaks worse then before.When I took off the drive shaft seal it had a spring inside the seal and the one inside the kit did not. Is this the cause or am I forgetting something?
Thank-you for your reply tippy. Sorry I took so longI will try the old valve stem method.The model # is 206B268 C56743, the coils are beside the engine block, not under the fly wheel. Everything else looks the same as my old 1972 25hp.evinrude.The SE kit is for a 18 20 25 johnson ,evinrude outboard. The motor was made in peterbourgh ontario canada I will post o photo later on. Merry xmas!!You can whittle down an old valve stem enough to screw it into the oil fill hole, making its own threads as you turn it in. Use that to pressurize the lower unit with a bicycle pump for a leak test. As Hightrim says, 15lbs max. More and you risk blowing the good seals. Any tire shop will give you an old valve stem, they replace dozens every day.
I don't think OMC made a 20HP in 1976? What model # is your motor and what SE kit did you buy? I did a 1967 20HP a couple years ago with a SE kit. The SE kit came with two thinner drive shaft seals to replace the OEM thicker seal with the spring in it. The OEM seal had two lips. The thinner SE seals had one lip each. You stack the two thinner SE seals like poker chips. The lips inside the single SE seals face one way. When you stack them you want the lower seal's lip to face down to keep oil in the gearcase, and the upper seal's lip to face up to keep water out of the gearcase. If you point them both the same way (both up or both down) you won't get a good seal.