1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

RySmacl

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Aug 17, 2007
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hello all! My first time posting on this forum! I recently purchased a 1975 Evinrude 115 for a project boat im working on. You can tell a lot of work has been done to this motor, new spark plugs, wires, electrical stuff etc. So I was hoping she'd start right up for me. However when I stuck a bucket underneath her and gave her a crank I didnt get a whole hell of a lot :(. Heres my best description of what DID happen. The starter engaged good and spun the fly wheel, but the motor didnt turn over. I fiddled with the choke and some other things and got it to catch for a second or 2 before it died (actually it died when i stopped cranking the starter) So i fiddled with some more things (took the pulgs out, tightened them back up, stuff like that) and tried again, Same thing, but now sometimes the starter wouldnt turn the fly wheel all that good. So i scratched my head :confused: for a little bit and tried again. Now the starter doesnt turn the flywheel at all, just sits there and buzzez like it doesnt have the umph to turn the wheel. Also the lead wire at the terminal starts to get hot and smoke. This is where I called it quits before I ruined something.

the story behind the motor goes like this: The kid I bought it from got it from a woman who's husband passed away. Her husband worked for the airforce and rebuilt outboards on the side. So the kid helped out the woman and in return she said he could help himself to a motor in the basement because he had a 14ft boat in need of a motor. So he took this motor (unknowing that it was waaaaaaaaaay to big for his boat :rolleyes: ) and then put it on craigs list. He said that this motor was all put back together where many others in the basement were works in progress before the airforce mechanic passed away. He told me the woman said the motor ran fine for her husband, but the kid never had a chance to test it himself and was unsure if it started (which is why i only paid 475 for it). So with alllllllll that said.......... anyone have any ideas before I bring it to the local marina to have it checked out?

any info would be great! thanks in advance ;)
 

jtexas

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

welcome to the forum!!

3 things your motor needs to run: compression, spark and fuel.

Buy or borrow a compression gauge and check that first. you want the lowest cylinder to be within 10% of the highest, and all 4 over 100 or so, otherwise you'll have to pull the cylinder head to assess the damage.

If compression checks out, order yourself a service manual, it'll more than pay for itself, I promise. Also order carb kits and a water pump kit - motor with unknown service history with a long period of inactivity, those items are not too expensive & will make her feel a lot better.

Meanwhile, go down to walmarts or academy or someplace & get a water hose flusher instead of the bucket.

Get some fresh 87 octane fuel mixed 50:1 with TCWIII outboard motor oil in a clean tank.

Cold start procedure:
Start with a known good fully charged battery - she needs to turn about 250 RPM's to generate spark.
Pump primer bulb until firm.
Raise hi-idle lever full up.
Push key in (to choke) hold it in while turning to start.
Release key when engine starts.
Keep the revs only as high as needed to keep her from dying.
If she starts to die before warming up, punching the choke usually will keep her going.

Remove, clean and reattach all the cables & wires from the battery to the solenoid to the starter. By "clean" I mean polish 'em till they shine.

Let us know how it goes.

oops, forgot, I meant to link this "outboard won't start" thread, about troubleshooting the starter & solenoid http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158071
 
Last edited:

tschamp20

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 10, 2006
Messages
317
Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

if the wire got hot and smoked its no good.also get a spark tester from auto parts store $5-$10.screw type so you can set gap to 1/2 inch.good luck!
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

90% of starter problems are bad connections. remove and clean both ends of the battery cables, so that they are shiney, also the cable from the solenoid to starter. check for nicks in the cables. and make sure the connectors are on the wire good. the cable tend to corrode from the inside out, if nicked, corroded wires, and connections, heat up and cause resistance to the follow of electricity, thus the starter doesn't get enough. you can also take jumper cable pos battery post to large post on starter. with a good connection, the engine should spin. then if the starter is good clean everything and retest. then trouble shoot solenoid. starters can be rebuit at a starter/alternator shop, much cheaper than a new one.
 

ezeke

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Sep 19, 2003
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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

The original control on your motor had a toggle switch for the choke that was located just below the ignition switch. For cold starts you needed to hold the toggle up until the engine started. The warm up lever would keep the RPM high enough until the the engine would idle on its own and could be be lowered to allow you to shift into gear.

The biggest problem was that the engine required that the choke plates be 100% fully closed for a cold start, and that you needed the powerful fully charged battery to reach the necessary 250 [300 preferred] RPM.

There are at least several dozen threads on this forum where guys thought the chokes were closing, only to find that when they watched while someone cranked the engine that the vacuum was opening the chokes and spoiling the start. Adjust the chokes by moving the solenoid in small increments.
 

RySmacl

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

Hey thanks for all the quick responses!

Buy or borrow a compression gauge and check that first. you want the lowest cylinder to be within 10% of the highest, and all 4 over 100 or so, otherwise you'll have to pull the cylinder head to assess the damage.

the kid I bought it from works on dirtbike and car engines and did do a compression test on the outboard which did come up with a clean bill of health.

if the wire got hot and smoked its no good.also get a spark tester from auto parts store $5-$10.screw type so you can set gap to 1/2 inch.good luck!

which is no good? the starter or the wire? also the gap in the plugs should be a 1/2 inch? thats sounds like i giant gap as they're only like a 16th right now.

you can also take jumper cable pos battery post to large post on starter.
should i do this test from my truck battery as i know this battery is good, or still just be using my marine battery. Im not sure the charge in that battery as i also bought it second hand. its an agm, its about the size of 3 car batteries and weighs about 125lbs. I figured something that big would turn the engine over no prob. I assumed it held change because all the lights i installed light up with it, and the starter and all the electric componets of the motor work with it. maybe just not enough charge? also while im on this topic, does this motor have an altenator that will recharge the battery when its running? i cant seem to see one, would it look like one on a car?

There are at least several dozen threads on this forum where guys thought the chokes were closing, only to find that when they watched while someone cranked the engine that the vacuum was opening the chokes and spoiling the start. Adjust the chokes by moving the solenoid in small increments.

o.k. i know a little big about how motors work, but this you may have to put in lamens terms as i have no idea what any of that means. My controls do have the choke toggle below the ignition which i have been trying to use when i crank it.

I will trying taking the starter and wires out, cleaning them fully and running through the cold start procedure again. thanks for all your help, I'll let you know what happens. also one more thing. is it possible the fly wheel siezed for any reason and thats why the starter cant turn it when it engages? it was spinnging at first, but not now. should I be able to turn the wheel by hand at all because i deffinatly cant, and although im no body builder, im also no little guy.

thanks again!
 

ezeke

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

With the spark plugs out and the motor in neutral, you should easily turn the flywheel.

Heat in wiring or components like a starter solenoid indicates excessive resistance. If it occurs in the battery cables, or at the terminals, it means that corrosion has had its way, and the proper current cannot flow through them.

There are two sets of flaps inside the barrels of your carburetors. The first are the choke flaps, the rear or second sets are the throttle plates. Take the cover off the carburetors and watch the choke plates to see that they are closing fully when the switch is toggled.

Any store that sells a lot of batteries should be able to test your battery for you.

The parts diagrams for your specific motor are online at the BRP Parts Catalog site. They include the carburetor diagrams:

http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=e
 

RySmacl

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

ok, i took the plugs out and had the controls in neutral however i still can spin the flywheel by hand. the prop turns very easy, but not the flywheel. also i noticed that even though the control box was in the neutral position that the motor actually was still in gear. i adjusted the wire that controls that so it actually does sit in the neutral position when the controls say it does. If by chance i was trying to start the motor in gear, would that have ruined something and cause the fly wheel to seize? other than that i took everything off the starter and solenoid terminals, cleaned everything real good and replaced the wire running from the solenoid to the starter with a brand spankin new one. also im currently charging the battery. the charger says the battery is only at a 25 % charge. Im hoping this is just what is causing my problems and nothing major like the flywheel. thanks again, anymore thoughts please let me know.

-ry
 

RySmacl

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

There are two sets of flaps inside the barrels of your carburetors. The first are the choke flaps, the rear or second sets are the throttle plates. Take the cover off the carburetors and watch the choke plates to see that they are closing fully when the switch is toggled.

also found the carbs and checked them out, they're spotlessly clean and both the choke flaps and the throttle flaps work just fine.
 

jtexas

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

you want to test for spark across a 1/2" gap on a spark tester, without the spark plug attached - the tester clips onto the engine block, the plug wire boot fits on the end, and the "gap" part is threaded so you can adjust the gap - you could fabricate one with four terminals out of scrap lumber & hardware for testing all four at once. seeing spark from the spark plugs outside the cylinder doesn't guarantee that they're sparking under compression, is the reason for making 'em jump a wider gap on the outside.

plug gap should be .030
 

RySmacl

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

ok battery was fully charged, starter and solenoid terminals cleaned to a shine, lead wire replaced that runs from solenoid to starter, sprayed starter spray into the carbs, followed cold start procedure and.... click, again starter goes to the fly wheel, and the fly wheel doesnt budge. what could be locking that up and how do i unlock it? the prop spins fine in neutral, locks in with forward and reverse, but the fly wheel is stuck in all positions. took all the spark plugs out to release the compression, still cant turn that flywheel by hand... anyone? or is it time to drag it to the marina and drop the real cash?
 

carpenterken

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

Have you been using starting fluid all along? It is not a good idea to use starting fluid on 2 stroke engine as it dries the oil film off the pistons. You may have to spray some wd40 in to the combustion chamber (spark plug hole) and work the flywheel back and forth by hand to get some lube in there.
It sounds like the motor has bigger troubles than bad connections.
 

Marcq

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

Not a good sign if you can't turn the flywheel without the spark plug in

Marc..
 

RySmacl

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

nope just this one time hoping to give it that little extra juice to get it going. I'll try to lube up the pistons... but the weird thing is it was spinnging at first, and then had a real hard time, and then just locked up... there is prob about an 8th maybe a 1/4 inch with of play in the flywheel back and forth....
 

ezeke

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

I'm sure that many of the readers would take the cylinder heads off at this point for an inspection- I know that I would.

Before going at the engine too much, you might want to drop the gearcase to make sure that it is not locked.

Did you personally inspect the gearcase oil?
 

RySmacl

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

yea i drained the old stuff and put new stuff in before i even tried running it. old stuff was maybe a charcoal grey color.
 

RySmacl

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

also if the gearcase was locked wouldnt the prop not spin when in nuetral. the transmision works just fine (nuetral prop spins, when moving to fwd or rvs the prop locks up with about 6 inches of play )
 

jtexas

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

also if the gearcase was locked wouldnt the prop not spin when in nuetral...

disagree. gears can be screwed while prop is freewheeling, although the shifting behavior you descibed makes it sound unlikely in this case..........

myself, I'd drop the L/U anyway, due to an irrational aversion to pulling cylinder heads, just on the outside chance..............
 

ezeke

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Re: 1975 Evinrude 115 - can't get her started

The way it works is that the gears are always on whenever the driveshaft is connected to the engine. The propshaft is not on until the dog connects to whichever gear you decide to use.

So your gears could be locked solid and the prop and propshaft can spin freely.
 
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