1975 9.9 sea horse

[Garner51]

Also I re tested the compression with my dads compression tester and his was between 105-110 on both cylinders…..

 

[OptsyEagle]

The best spark plugs for that motor are NGK B7HS. That said, spark plug are not your problem.

So you have confirmed spark and you have good compression. You said you confirmed that the clips coming from the flywheel and going to the coils cannot be switched. I was under the impression they can be and if so that motor would never run if they are in reverse order. I will take your word for it since I have never switched mine up but always kept close order on them when I unhooked those clips because of how important it is to have the spark firing at TDC. Both clips appeared to be identical to me.

So your problem is fuel. Your fuel pump video was hard to hear at first but I suspect the liquid coming out of it in the beginning was you priming the bulb but when you pulled on the starter nothing came out. If I am right on that your check valves on the pump are working but it is not pumping fuel properly. That said, if you fill up the carb with gas the motor should run for a while, so you must have two problems. Since you have gas to the carb but it is obviously not getting to the cylinders, your first problem lies in the carb...or your reed valves are not working. The latter is less likely because both reed valves would need to have failed for the motor not to run.

I would probably focus first on the carb. By soaking the carb in carb cleaner AND poking around with a wire you may have dislodged the little plastic needle valve bearing that sits inside the very end of the slow speed jet, on that carburetor. Perhaps it is now not letting any fuel through it and that would certainly be a problem getting it to start. The carb gasket holding it to the intake manifold might also be leaking preventing proper air/fuel flow. I think you might want to get an entire carb kit and give that carb a thorough cleaning.

 

[racerone]

Post #63 and counting.----Put 7 drops of fuel into each sparkplug hole.-----Install sparkplugs.----Pull on starter cord a few times.-----Report exactly what happens !

 

[Garner51]

Post #63 and counting.----Put 7 drops of fuel into each sparkplug hole.-----Install sparkplugs.----Pull on starter cord a few times.-----Report exactly what happens !

It actually acted like it was going to start a couple times so done this process twice and got a good puff of smoke out and almost got it to run. That’s to the T.

 

[jimmbo]

I’m not sure what you mean by check the float or adjust it? I made sure it would sit level in the carburetor when the needle was in there yes. And I’ve messed with the idle mixture screw a lot. Even bought a new red rubber seal for it cause someone said that’s my problem lol.

On most OMC Carbs of that type. With the Fuel Bowl off, invert the Carb, put a New Bowl Gasket on. The top of the Float, which is now on the Bottom, should be Even and Parallel with the Gasket.

Idle Mixture Adjustment Screw: LIGHTLY seat the Mixture Screw, then back it out 1 1/2 turns. That is usually a good starting point. Final adjustment is done with the engine warm, and in Gear.

Edit: While you have the Carb apart, inspect the Inlet Needle and Seat for Wear and Contamination.

 

[OptsyEagle]

That’s to the T.

Not sure what that means.

OK. Your coil clips are fine. Since we know the fuel is getting to the end of the fuel line coming from the fuel pump but not to the cylinders to maintain operation, you have to have a problem between the carb and the cylinders. Time to clean that carb again.

Perhaps the carbs inlet valve is not working to allow gas into the carb. Take a close look at that and change that idle needle valve bearing, #20 on the diagram above. Clean under the top welsh plug, #5 above. Clean everything else spotless and blow everything with compressed air. Put on a new carb to intake manifold gasket and try it all again.

 

[Garner51]

Not sure what that means.

Clean under the top welsh plug, #5 above.

^^^ I was just saying that’s what I done to the t. Alright I’ve removed the carburetor and it sat overnight in a tub of gas and today I gave it a good cleaning and then blew it with compressed air.. now when it comes to the idle needle bearing I can see it down in there but how do I inspect it or change it? And how can I get this welsh plug out? Mine seems made of thin tin? Easy to tear…

 

[jimmbo]

Did you remove the Welsh Plug, and clean the crap that can build up under it, and doesn't wash or get blown out? You punch a hole in it and pry it out, taking care not to damage Recess it is in. New Plugs are included in the Carb Kit, put a bit of Gasoline-Alcohol Proof Sealer on the Edge, place in the Recess, and using a Drift Tool and Hammer, Flatten it a bit.

 

[OptsyEagle]

You really should get a carb kit and replace the needle bearing inside the slow speed jet and the carb to intake manifold gasket. You will need a new welsh plug if you want to clean under it and since your problem is almost certainly the carb, and more specifically right in that slow speed jet area that provides the gas for starting, this stuff is pretty important.

You use a punch or drill to create a hole in the welsh plug to pry it out. Clean it well and then put a new welsh plug in there and tap it flat. You can use a sealant after it is all tapped flat (if it is flattened well no sealant is necessary), around the edges, but not on the inside edges because you don't want anything like that getting in that area under the welsh plug. Sealant on the top of the plug only.

Not sure how well gas will clean a carb. If gas cleaned carbs well I would think none would ever get dirty. I would use carb cleaner. A spray can will work. Spray liberally and then blow it all out with compressed air. Perhaps that is what you did after the gas soak, I am not sure.

 

[tphoyt]

Agreed on the gas for cleaning. It would be like doing your laundry with out detergent.

 

[Crosbyman]

Outboard Motor Carburetor Repai

lots of utubes on carbs...

 

[Garner51]

Update: I’ve ordered a carb rebuild kit… I’m not doing anything else until it comes in I couldn’t adjust the idle without having the choke at least half on but with your guys help. Look at this!!!! It’s alive!

 

[OptsyEagle]

Looks good. Nice water flow from the water pump. A good carb clean should deal with that choke requirement.

 

[Crosbyman]

Update: I’ve ordered a carb rebuild kit… I’m not doing anything else until it comes in I couldn’t adjust the idle without having the choke at least half on but with your guys help. Look at this!!!! It’s alive!

make certain that clear fuel hose on the pump is fuel rated...regular clear tubing eventually gets rock hard and brittle

 

[tphoyt]

I’m just curious if the flywheel nut is in place.
It may just be because it’s running I can’t see it but it just looks like there is a lot of thread there.

 

[Garner51]

Sorry I’ve been waiting for the carburetor kit it was over seas and the shipping took forever and a day but it’s finally here. I’m going to take it off today and begin the cleaning and rebuilding the only thing that concerns me is the little aluminum and brass “press in” if you will but I will keep you guys updated. If it wasn’t for you this motor would have whent to the scraper so hell yeah we are almost on green river

 

[Garner51]

Alright guys I’ve got the carburetor rebuilt and put back on the motor I done exactly and I was told and replaced all that the kit came with including the Welch plugs. When I replaced them I was worried about air seeping around them so I took some jb weld and put around the tops of them two that I replaced I’m going to try to get it started to and get it tuned. We had a good rain and the river is up. Wish me luck

 

[jimmbo]

JB Weld? Nail Polish, or any Fuel resistant Sealer would have worked, and would permit future removal. Those Plugs, usually seal well, when they are Flattened upon installation, even without Sealer.

 

[Garner51]

That’s what I was told, I just wanted to be sure there was no air seeping around them. and in all honesty I didn’t know nail polish was fuel resistant…. But when I put the small one on the side in it didn’t seat correctly so it needed something to help it keep the air contained

 

[Garner51]

When I try to turn the throttle down it dies off and that’s with adjusting the needle on the front