1975 9.9 sea horse

[jimmbo]

I hate having to ask this but, You are using Mixed Gas, when spraying it into the Carb?

 

[Garner51]

I’m not sure it will upload a video but it’s worth a shot
View attachment IMG_2557.mov

 

[Garner51]

I hate having to ask this but, You are using Mixed Gas, when spraying it into the Carb?

Yes why

 

[Garner51]

I’m still learning guys so if I come off rude or even the slightest bit snappy or whatever. I’d expect the same thing back. I grew up in the south my dad didn’t put up with that back talk lmao I got a swift hand to the mouth. I’m here to learn from you guys.

 

[racerone]

Stop cranking and cranking.----There is something wrong.----Look / test for the issue.-----A motor with things in order will start in 2 or 3 pulls.

 

[jimmbo]

Yes why

You would be surprised how many people either Forget, or don't even know they have use Mixed Fuel when spraying it into the Carb

 

[jimmbo]

With that amount of Cranking, the Tub you have it in should have a Layer of Unburnt Fuel on it.
When you took the Carb apart, did you have a Kit with all the Gaskets, core Plugs? How exactly did you clean it? How did you check and set the Float?

You are Squeezing the Primer Bulb till it is Firm, before pulling the Choke and cranking the Motor?

 

[Garner51]

Can one of you guys also find a good fuel pump rebuild diagram or whatever I’m thinking about pulling the fuel pump apart and making sure it’s been put back together correct. When I take the black hose off the carb and prime the tank I get gas but does that mean my fuel pump is together right…

 

[jimmbo]

If Fuel is getting to the Carb, it likely means the Check Valves in the Pump are not impeding Flow, as they would if the Lines were Swapped. If the Carb Bowl is filled, by Priming, and the Fuel Level is correct, the engine can run for bit without a working Fuel Pump. However since it won't start, and Fuel is getting to the Carb, I would be looking at the Carb.

 

[Garner51]

With that amount of Cranking, the Tub you have it in should have a Layer of Unburnt Fuel on it.
When you took the Carb apart, did you have a Kit with all the Gaskets, core Plugs? How exactly did you clean it? How did you check and set the Float?

You are Squeezing the Primer Bulb till it is Firm, before pulling the Choke and cranking the Motor?

I’m not sure if you can see in the video but there is plenty of unburnt fuel in the barrel… it scared me at first I thought my lower unit was leaking- now when I cleaned the carb. I didn’t have an extra kit or anything like that just some kimball Midwest carb cleaner and I just soaked everything down nice and clean. I took a single wire off a wire brush and ran through the jets. As far as setting or checking the Cork float I just set it in the barrel while I was cleaning and it floated so I assumed it was good. It’s by no means the best and will need to be replaced but shouldn’t need to be now. Back to the primer. I get all the air out of it i possibly can and even go as far as hanging it on the tiller handle so yeah I get as much gas in the lines as I can but idk if the pump or whatever is doing it’s job under compression strokes and actually sucking in fuel

 

[Garner51]

If Fuel is getting to the Carb, it likely means the Check Valves in the Pump are not impeding Flow, as they would if the Lines were Swapped. If the Carb Bowl is filled, by Priming, and the Fuel Level is correct, the engine can run for bit without a working Fuel Pump. However since it won't start, and Fuel is getting to the Carb, I would be looking at the Carb.

I agree with that, it would run until the bowl ran out of gas. Basically like a in line shutoff, the only way I think I could confirm if the pump is actually pumping is to unhook it from the carburetor and pull the rope a few times? See if I get gas without having to prime the bulb.. because it’s been done today shouldn’t need to be done again for a few hrs

 

[jimmbo]

To see if the Pump is pumping, unhook the Line from the Carb, and spin the Engine
So you didn't check or adjust the Float?

Edit: How far out did you set the Idle Mixture Screw, when you put the Carb together?

 

[oldboat1]

I don't know if you have done any work on the carburetor yet: https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1975&hp=9.9&model=10524C&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=CARBURETOR+&+MANIFOLD
The solution might be as simple as adjusting the low speed needle -- air/fuel mix -- up at the top of the carb (#22). The initial setting should be 1 1/2 turns out (counter clockwise) from lightly closed. All things being equal (and they usually are not), the motor should try to run with this setting. Remember to insure water is well over the lower unit intake -- perhaps about half way up the shaft to make sure. If it starts and runs, let it warm up before making final adjustments to the idle needle.

 

[geoffwga1]

As far as I know it’s in time you guys helped me with that a lotso that would make it spark at the correct time but somehow it’s still not hitting and I’ve adjusted the air to fuel ratio that’s why I was wondering if maybe the plugs were firing backwards. But when it’s at TDC the timing marks line up. It’s all nice and neat like it’s supposed to be until you go pull the rope. it’s a stump….. I wish I could upload a video you would see i almost feel as if I’m forgetting a step with this thing haha

In an earlier post you said you had not checked the sparks on a tester.You MUST do this as you are not getting any sparks and as previously mentioned holding a plug against the block does not cut the mustard.Also I would fit new plugs,Champion 4c4 I think are the right ones.Good luck.

 

[Garner51]

To see if the Pump is pumping, unhook the Line from the Carb, and spin the Engine
So you didn't check or adjust the Float?

Edit: How far out did you set the Idle Mixture Screw, when you put the Carb together?

I’m not sure what you mean by check the float or adjust it? I made sure it would sit level in the carburetor when the needle was in there yes. And I’ve messed with the idle mixture screw a lot. Even bought a new red rubber seal for it cause someone said that’s my problem lol.

That video if y’all can see may have something to do with it

 

[Garner51]

In an earlier post you said you had not checked the sparks on a tester.You MUST do this as you are not getting any sparks and as previously mentioned holding a plug against the block does not cut the mustard.Also I would fit new plugs,Champion 4c4 I think are the right ones.Good luck

I’ve had time to test them, now I believe it’s something else. But your right some new hot plugs would help and thanks buddy I appreciate it!!

 

[racerone]

Hot plugs have nothing to do with a motor starting.

 

[Garner51]

Hot plugs have nothing to do with a motor starting.

You’re exactly correct on that point. I was just saying it would help with the fuel not being burnt. I’ve have my family members ask me if 90lbs is even enough compression to run? And did any of y’all see the video? To me it didn’t seem like the pump was pumping as I turned the flywheel

 

[Garner51]

In an earlier post you said you had not checked the sparks on a tester.You MUST do this as you are not getting any sparks and as previously mentioned holding a plug against the block does not cut the mustard.Also I would fit new plugs,Champion 4c4 I think are the right ones.Good luck.

Give me just a moment and I’ll upload a picture of the gap tester and spark and you guys tell me what you think?

 

[Garner51]

Hot plugs have nothing to do with a motor starting.

That’s not got an actual measurement on my gauge but i think it’s hot.