1975 9.9 Johnson Seahorse - SLOW

trashcanslam

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I have a 1975 seahorse which I've owned for a few months now. It has been running fine except for some carburetor issues (had to keep choke out to keep her running). I took out the carb yesterday, took it apart, soaked, scrubbed, and sprayed the core, jets, the bowl, and replaced the bowl gasket, as well as, the gasket connecting the carb onto the engine block. The float and needle seemed in good shape so I left those alone.

Started up great in the barrel. I adjusted the carb by seating the dial and turning it counter-clockwise 1 and 1/2 turns and slightly adjusting from there until she sounded good. No shaking, choking, or starving for gas. GREAT.

PROBLEM: took the boat out today. Everything is fine until i put her in WOT... the boat tops out at 7-8mph, when previously it was doing at least 17. Gas is fresh and it doesn't seem to be a gas delivery issue. I am at a complete loss here.

I appreciate yalls thoughts and input on this.
 

racerone

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Sounds like it is running on 1 cylinder.-------Check spark.----Check compression.------No coins spent to do that.
 

Vic.S

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+1

Maybe a duff spark plug. Do cylinder drop test. If that indicates that it is running on 1 cylinder only swap the plugs around and repeat
 

Grub54891

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Three priorities, spark-compression-fuel.
While you have the sparkplugs out for changing and checking spark, may as well do a compression test. Normally in my experience them are pretty reliable motors.
Is there a fuel filter under the hood? Should be a round plastic plate on the fuel pump with a screen, held on with a thumbscrew.
 
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trashcanslam

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I’ll do a drop test followed by a spark and compression test when I get home and post the results.

In the meantime, is there any reason a dead cylinder would appear the day after the carburetor was rebuilt? Two days ago the motor’s only issue was that it needed to be run in choke.

I cant think of a connection between the two occurrences however. Anyone have a theory on this?
 

racerone

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There is something wrong with your motor.-----You made a mistake on your carburetor perhaps.-------Testing is the path forward.-----Or bring it over as I have every part you might need to fix that motor !
 

F_R

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Has anybody ever told you that the 1974-76 9.9hp motors were notorious for fouling spark plugs? Even the factory couldn't keep some of them running one weekend. Slap in a set of new plugs and see what happens---'till next time.
 

racerone

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Refurbished a 74 model 9.9 Evinrude for one fellow.-----Called me a while ago after about 8 years.------Says it runs just great.-----Says he might never get rid of it.----Said " Thanks for helping me out "----Dealers won't touch them any more.
 

trashcanslam

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Has anybody ever told you that the 1974-76 9.9hp motors were notorious for fouling spark plugs? Even the factory couldn't keep some of them running one weekend. Slap in a set of new plugs and see what happens---'till next time.

I've never heard that but sounds like a solid plan. The motor is "new to me" so I have not had a chance to replace the plugs. May as well while I'm at it.
 

trashcanslam

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UPDATE: got home, but before I began working on anything I decided to push the cam roller forward to see what happens. When manually pushed, the engine roars back to life and revs at the appropriate RPMS. When I position the throttle to WOT, the black plastic plate which is meant to press on the cam roller barely nudges it forward before stopping. it seems that it is misadjusted and needs to be moved. I apologize if the description is confusing. I can attach a picture if need be.
 

oldboat1

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The black plastic cam moves with the timing plate/armature plate to which it's attached. Don't rev using only the roller as that does not advance the timing at the same time. Additionally, note that the plate and and plastic cam will not fully advance with the motor in neutral -- must be in gear.
 

OptsyEagle

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UPDATE: got home, but before I began working on anything I decided to push the cam roller forward to see what happens. When manually pushed, the engine roars back to life and revs at the appropriate RPMS. When I position the throttle to WOT, the black plastic plate which is meant to press on the cam roller barely nudges it forward before stopping. it seems that it is misadjusted and needs to be moved. I apologize if the description is confusing. I can attach a picture if need be.

Most likely that is because your throttle is limited by a :neutral stop". The neutral stop is to prevent you from over-revving the motor when it does not have a load on it. Believe it or not, when you over-rev the motor, not only can that damage the motor in itself but you can get a runaway motor. I won't go into the technical reasons of how a motor continues to run on when you when you kill spark and turn the throttle to zero, but it can, so be careful.

To see what I mean by the "neutral stop" just put it in gear and you will see that the throttle cam is allowed to push on the carb roller a lot more. Check this without the motor running, if you want to see what I am talking about.

OK, back to your problem. 1st the right position of the throttle cam is that the "arrow" on the throttle cam is in the middle of the carb roller JUST as the throttle cam touches the roller. If it is not, there are two 5/16" hex nuts just below the flywheel on the starboard side of the motor. Loosen them and adjust the throttle to where it should be and tighten them again. Don't bother if it is very close because it is a little more difficult to do then how easily I describe it. You really can't get a standard 5/16" wrench in there. You either have to find a very thin wrench, file down a regular wrench or pull the flywheel.

Lastly, check your cylinder drop test. It is highly likely a spark plug fouled. Probably the bottom one. Those motor hate any Champion spark plug ever made. Champion makes great spark plugs, but not for the 1974-1976 9.9/15Hp series of motors. You need to use NGK B7HS (B6HS if you have a 15hp) or you will be fouling spark plugs very quickly. Most likely your plugs were close to fouling but when you positioned the fuel mix to over-rich before you dialed it down, that rich mixture combined with low RPMs, will foul the standard champions very quickly, on that motor. I mean, if they were brand new, they would probably last more then an hour but if the plugs you had, already had a small film of carbon on them, perhaps 5 more minutes at low RPMs with a highly rich gas mixture was enough to foul your current plugs before you could set the carb mixture correctly. Again, probably the bottom one. It is not OMC's best design but the NGKs tend to fix it quite well. I have both the 9.9 and 15Hp and find them to be totally reliable.

Anyway, a dropped cylinder may not be your problem, but the NGKs will keep you from rowing. Also, don't use that motor for long trolling sessions. It really does not like low RPMs. Run that baby hard and fast, with NGKs and it will never let you down. Run it slow, with Champion plugs, and keep the oars handy.
 
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trashcanslam

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OptsyEagle, you're right. I figured out the cam roller and plate and it really had nothing to do with it. Just a novice mistake on my part.

UPDATE: I've changed out the spark plugs (NGK's) and did a drop test. Pulled plug #1, and the motor began to die. Pulled plug #2, got shocked, and the motor began to die. So I am left to believe both cylinders are working.

I will take her out tomorrow and see if the new plugs solved the low top-end speed issue. If not, I am left to assume the carb was put back together wrong.

Also, in the process of all of this I broke the fuel pump's nozzle, so I replaced the fuel pump. Can't believe its a fuel delivery issue.
 

trashcanslam

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Also wanted to throw in that the old spark plugs were FILTHY. Dry and black on the ceramic portion which means carbon fouling. I suppose this was caused by the dirty carburetor and running it with the choke out?
 

Mohawkmtrs

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If you got a shock from the #2 plug wire, it may be time to replace the plug wires.

Your supposition above is correct.
 

oldboat1

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Agree, and add that carbon tracks could be the source of shocks. Examine the plug boots for cracks which would indicate replacement needed. If existing boots and wires are to be used, it would be a good idea to clean up the spring connecter in the boot (spray with some electrical cleaner, and run a Phillips screwdriver in the connecter to clean it up). Consider running the motor after dark to look for any sparking along the wiring.
 

trashcanslam

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SOLUTION: Ran great today on the water. It was the fouled spark plugs! Thank you all for you help and input!
 

F_R

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Thanks for reporting back. Not meaning to brag, but experience is a great teacher. I was there, trying to keep those motors running when they were brand new out of the box.
 
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