1974 Johnson 50hp Stuck.

Chrisravosa36

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I cant seem to get these nuts off at all! I got a new socket for it, it works but it just doesn't have enough torque to crack her lose. I tried PB and heat already, with not luck. I dont want to strip the heads off these!
 

gm280

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I cant seem to get these nuts off at all! I got a new socket for it, it works but it just doesn't have enough torque to crack her lose. I tried PB and heat already, with not luck. I dont want to strip the heads off these!

Are you talking about the connecting rod nuts? Because a standard 12 point quality socket is the right tool to be using, and of course remove them counter-clockwise looking at them front the nut side. I can't believe that they are on there that tight that a 3/8 ratchet can't turn them. You could take a 12 point box wrench and rap the end with a hammer to break them loose. Pop up a picture or three for us to see. JMHO!
 

Chrisravosa36

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I tried that, no luck, I even tried a large torque wrench for those!n the socket would just jump up a bit, and stat to strip the bolt....I do not think I will need to remove these bolts anymore...I got the crankshaft pretty damn free, I mean she turns over really easy, I put the flywheel back on and added some PB to the bearings, put the cover on, and It took a while to get the flywheel lose, but it came... I first had to use a socket and a wrench to get her to spin, then after some time I could do it with my hands pretty easy, sometimes I will get a bit of resistance at the top of a stoke, not sure what this is, but it doesn't stop me from moving it. THe only reason Id need toget these bolts off now, would be to check the rings and/or replace them, I took a few pics of the rings, I dont know what good/bad rings look like, so Im not sure, let me know if you need more pics, and GM280 what kind of pictures do you need for the bolts??

VIDEO OF OF TURNING https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahnskyfD88c



 

gm280

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Honestly Chis, if this were my project, I most certainly would disassembly the engine and rebuilt it with new rings as a minimum. Probably hone the cylinders and surely look over all the bearings and replace them if they are bad and of course new seals and "O" rings. I would also check the crank with a fine tooth comb and make certain it was good. And that is because something had it frozen up and will come back and cause issues again. But it is your project and you have to make those decisions.

Looking at the pictures, the rings do look suspect. And with the amount of carbon shown, I would have to go further with disassembling it. JMHO!
 

Chrisravosa36

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Honestly Chis, if this were my project, I most certainly would disassembly the engine and rebuilt it with new rings as a minimum. Probably hone the cylinders and surely look over all the bearings and replace them if they are bad and of course new seals and "O" rings. I would also check the crank with a fine tooth comb and make certain it was good. And that is because something had it frozen up and will come back and cause issues again. But it is your project and you have to make those decisions.

Looking at the pictures, the rings do look suspect. And with the amount of carbon shown, I would have to go further with disassembling it. JMHO!



I really want to, but cant get the bolts out, I was planning on homing the cylidners, I checked the bearings,, most of the damage was just rust, all the bearings are free, I am just working on getting the damn bolts off.
 

gm280

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I really want to, but cant get the bolts out, I was planning on homing the cylidners, I checked the bearings,, most of the damage was just rust, all the bearings are free, I am just working on getting the damn bolts off.

Chris, you don't have to do anymore then YOU want to. It isn't anybody else's say so then yours. I was merely telling you what I would do that's all. And honestly, good luck going either way. And I certainly do mean that too. :thumb:

If you are still wanting to remove the rod nuts, can you get to them with a good vice grip tool? If so snap on a vice grip and whack the end with a good size hammer (counter clockwise) to break the nuts loose. JMHO!
 

racerone

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????--Vicegrip will not work on those rod bolts.-----Need to get the PROPER 12 point THINWALL socket .---Then the job will be easy !
 

gm280

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????--Vicegrip will not work on those rod bolts.-----Need to get the PROPER 12 point THINWALL socket .---Then the job will be easy !

racerone, that's what I used was a 12 point socket. but he stated that it wasn't staying on the nuts and could break them loose. :eek:
 

Chrisravosa36

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The man needs the proper socket that is all !!



I have the proper socket(s) like suggested either a 5/16 12 point or a 8mm 12 point, I use them on both the smaller 8" rachet, and the 24" tourque wrench, with no luck with either, it stripper the socket both times.... Also, I really wanted to get the experiense of getting pistons out, and rings, crankshaft ect.. I just cant get the bolts out, I didnt do all the work of taking it apart for nothing. Im only 16, and really love boating and working on boats/engines.
 

racerone

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Listen to good advice ----Run / hurry to a tool dealer.---You know those guys with trucks that stop in at shops.---Tell them you need a thinwall 5/16"--12 point deep socket.---Been using the same socket since the early 1970's on many outboards !!
 

Chrisravosa36

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Got one piston out, I had to use the torque wrench, I basically had to put all of my weight on the wrench, and have my brother turn it, I asked my father to try it himself, he couldn't do it, we tried the other 2 bolts, the wrench just turns a bit, then it slips up and will go back down again, It might be the socket, because the edges are not like an triangle, they are more like a scalene triangle and worn out. Overall the piston seemed clean, only one big(?) scoring mark, i dont think im to worried about it, because it is at the bottom on the cylinder, and it is not very deep at all, like I can run a fingernail through it, and barley feel it, other than that is in good conditio, threw it in the parts cleaner for a day or two.















 

Chrisravosa36

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Also, before I speed alot of money of gaskets, seals and rings, id like to know if the lower unit is any good, I can get it to shift into all the gears by pushing the rod, so I know that works, is there any ways to test it??
 

Chrisravosa36

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here's a part no. for the omc torque socket #0331638..



Thanks, im going to go the Ace tomm. to see if they have any better ones than I had before, but if that doesnt work il be sure to use the OMC socket!
 

gm280

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Thanks, im going to go the Ace tomm. to see if they have any better ones than I had before, but if that doesnt work il be sure to use the OMC socket!

Chris, looking at those bolt heads, they just don't look like anything special that I haven't tackled before myself. And I use almost exclusively Craftsman tools for everything. So it would seem that a good 12 point socket would remove them without issue. Snap-On make a really good socket and so does Mac Tools. But honestly, I really don't see any quality 12 point socket not working myself. JMHO!
 

Chrisravosa36

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So it would seem that a good 12 point socket would remove them without issue. But honestly, I really don't see any quality 12 point socket not working myself. JMHO!


Ive gone through two of them, one from husky, and one from harbor freight, both sripped very easy.
 

racerone

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????---There is not enuff room for an " ordinary socket "--You need a " thinwall socket " to go down and properly grip on these high tensile cap screws !!!
 

Chrisravosa36

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????---There is not enuff room for an " ordinary socket "--You need a " thinwall socket " to go down and properly grip on these high tensile cap screws !!!



Ok, il ask them about it tonight.

Also, how do I know the bore of my cylinders for the right rings?
 

Keyboardman

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Sep 10, 2015
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My Manual says the bore is 3.060 (3 1/16). Standard size rings are Johnson part # 385798. If you're going to just replace them.
 
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