1973 Starcraft SuperSport 16ft. restoration questions

[MNhunter1]

I used that stripper on my previous boats and it work fantastic before they changed the formula and removed the methylene chloride. I just finished the last of the paint removal from all parts of my current MR180 rebuild and used the Citristrip this time around. I was pleasantly surprised how effective it was and how much easier it is to work without all the PPE required for the "good" stuff. I mainly used the jugs of the gel and laid it on pretty thick, but tried a can of the aerosol spray for some of the smaller areas/nooks and crannies, etc. and it also worked surprisingly well. Granted, I only had the original paint coat to cut through, so I can't speak to how it might work on multiple layers of old paint. Followed it up with an orbital sander to clean everything up.

 

[piperjoe]

Thank you MNhunter1 for your reply! I'll check Citristrip out as, after making a lot of calls this morning, I didn't find anyone impressed with the new formula. Did you cover the Citristrip with plastic wrap, and, how long did you leave it on the paint before removing it?

Safe boating,

Joe

 

[piperjoe]

Thank you MNhunter1 for your reply! I'll check Citristrip out as, after making a lot of calls this morning, I didn't find anyone impressed with the new formula. Did you cover the Citristrip with plastic wrap, and, how long did you leave it on the paint before removing it?

Safe boating,

Joe

Just checked out Citristrip: did you use the original or the "safer" version, and did you have to sand the aluminum surface to remove the wax that is in the formula? What grit of aluminum oxcide was used with the orbital sander? Thanks again!

Safe boating,

Joe

 

[MNhunter1]

Just checked out Citristrip: did you use the original or the "safer" version, and did you have to sand the aluminum surface to remove the wax that is in the formula? What grit of aluminum oxcide was used with the orbital sander? Thanks again!

Safe boating,

Joe

I did not find the need to cover it with plastic. This was the current version on the shelves at the local HD and Menards. The spray seemed to work a little faster, but I was also using it on what was likely a thinner layer of paint (inside of center console). I found around 45 minutes to be most efficient, but I would just keep checking on it until the majority of it had bubbled up. I seemed to have better results when using it in the garage, without a breeze and consistent temps.

I'd pressure wash all areas after scrapping off the paint, then eventually hit them all with 120 grit on the orbital sander. One - to clean everything up and take care of any remaining/stubborn paint, and two - to rough up the areas for future paint. I'm using a matte paint and am not too concerned about a gloss finish, otherwise I would have followed everything up with 220 grit.

 

[piperjoe]

Thank you for the quick response! The Admiral and I are going to town after lunch and I'm going to get some Citristrip and sandpaper for the orbital sander. I would like to see the results in a comparison trial.

Safe boating,

Joe

 

[classiccat]

Good morning Classiccat! Read your post and I did the steps you recommended. And, in the process, got a bit of the orange mess on my hand...it didn't burn at all. Interesting!

Safe boating,
Joe

interesting indeed! it may be a less aggressive formulation. I used ZipStrip and Jasco and i personally experienced "the burn" with both .

 

[piperjoe]

This afternoon I purchased the Citristrip at Lowes. What a huge difference! Shook the container, poured some into an aluminum baking pan, and actually brushed/painted the material onto the transom with a disposable foam brush. Far less expensive than the Aircraft Paint Remover and no bad odor or Saran Wrap needed. Let it work for about 45 min. (it was getting ready to rain) and when I checked the transom the old paint was blistering/bubbling in places. Decided the try removing the paint with a plastic scraper and it came off easily and without a real mess. Had to hurry and power wash the transom because of the incoming rain (tonight and tomorrow), however I can now feel like taking the old paint off the boat is a doable thing without having to resort to soda blasting and such. Won't be using the Aircraft Paint Remover again if I can avoid it. Additionally, I had gone over the transom surface that I had applied the Aircraft Paint Remover to with a random orbital sander and 80 grit disk to remove the remaining paint and then went over the transom area again with 120 grit and the sander. Left a nice surface for the primer to grab hold of. For a test I went over the 120 sanded area with the 3M Rivet Sander wheel chucked in my drill and that left a surface smooth enough to mirror the grass. The Admiral thought THAT was cool...and...of...course...I had to tell her I had planned it that way. More later.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[piperjoe]

Here is what the transom looks like now after only ONE application of the Citristrip. This morning I used the random orbital sander with a 150 grit and then a 120 grit disk to smooth the surface. Then a 3 minute application of phosphoric acid which was power washed off the aluminum transom. The metal is smooth and nice! A special Thank You to MNhunter1 for alerting me to the Citristrip product...I'm going into town a purchase a couple more gallons to use on the boat and will find a home for the Aircraft Paint Stripper. Now I can get things ready to install the wood transom.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[piperjoe]

Today, after the rain stopped, I decided to try the Citristrip on the port side sheetmetal piece that will hold the glove box for the Admiral (I don't know what it's called in boat talk). Removed the pop rivet remnants and the caulking remnants from where the passenger windscreen sits. Applied the Citristrip, let it set for 45 min. and used the plastic spatula to remove the paint. Found it's better to apply the paint stripper a little thicker than I initially applied it. Straight forward and I sure like the results. Progress may be a bit slow, however, it IS a step in the right direction.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[Watermann]

I'd call it the nav side console. Slow and steady progress gets you there, the tear down, clean up and repair takes the longest.

 

[piperjoe]

Thank you for the correct wording for the console sheet metal piece. I have to admit that there is, for me, a lot of satisfaction when I spend time with the boat during this hands on restoration.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[piperjoe]

The original steering wheel for the boat is intact without cracking or chipped surface. I would like to reinstall it on the boat. Once again, your suggestions for refinishing the steering wheel to "like new" condition after a good cleaning will be appreciated. Thank you for your thoughts.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[Watermann]

My SC steering wheels have all been roached and replaced. The SeaNymph had a usable wheel, all I did after removing the oxidized layer was to soak the wheel for a few days with 303 protectant.

 

[classiccat]

The original steering wheel for the boat is intact without cracking or chipped surface. I would like to reinstall it on the boat. Once again, your suggestions for refinishing the steering wheel to "like new" condition after a good cleaning will be appreciated. Thank you for your thoughts.

Safe boating,
Joe

I restored the wheel on my tractor by sanding then hitting it with a VHT vinyl dye spray bomb.

 

[piperjoe]

The Admiral's console has been stripped of the original paint on both the inside and outside surfaces. I will sand the surfaces with a 120 grit disk on my random orbital sander, spray on the phosphoric acid and power wash the unit as preparation for primer. Onwards we go!

Thanks for the comments with regards to the steering wheel. I will be considering the suggestions.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[piperjoe]

It is raining...still! And I am looking out the living room window at the boat. Lots of thoughts and ideas floating around as the restoration is contemplated. A paint scheme keeps coming into mind: I really like the original Starcraft green color as it fits the boat "birthdate". Have discussed, with the Admiral, using the green on the bow and gunwales and also on the outside surfaces down about three strakes (I think that is what they are called), and then a sand color for the remaining surfaces both outside and inside. Maybe an orange separation line between the two colors. Joyce likes the idea.

And I have been thinking about getting the middle glass for the windshield. If I can find one...

And...thinking about putting all the pieces back on the boat. I have never pop riveted anything and am looking into what rivets to use and where, what tools are needed and who makes good/not cheap tools that will last and, most important, how to do the job the correct way.

Lots to consider...

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[Watermann]

It is raining...still! And I am looking out the living room window at the boat. Lots of thoughts and ideas floating around as the restoration is contemplated. A paint scheme keeps coming into mind: I really like the original Starcraft green color as it fits the boat "birthdate". Have discussed, with the Admiral, using the green on the bow and gunwales and also on the outside surfaces down about three strakes (I think that is what they are called), and then a sand color for the remaining surfaces both outside and inside. Maybe an orange separation line between the two colors. Joyce likes the idea.

And I have been thinking about getting the middle glass for the windshield. If I can find one...

And...thinking about putting all the pieces back on the boat. I have never pop riveted anything and am looking into what rivets to use and where, what tools are needed and who makes good/not cheap tools that will last and, most important, how to do the job the correct way.

Lots to consider...

Safe boating,
Joe

It sure can be some nasty boat work weather this time of year

For the rivets, have you looked at the rivets tutorial in the stickies?
I have a cheap Husky air hammer for solids and a Shanghai Freight pneumatic blind riveter that have held up well over the years.

 

[piperjoe]

Thank you for the heads up on the rivets! A good step in the right direction and I will read it over again as I progress on the restoration. I especially appreciate the rivet size information.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[piperjoe]

Have any of you used Zep 505 Fast Cleaner/Degreaser as a final spray on aluminum parts, then pressure washed off with water, prior to applying primer?

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[classiccat]

Have any of you used Zep 505 Fast Cleaner/Degreaser as a final spray on aluminum parts, then pressure washed off with water, prior to applying primer?

Safe boating,
Joe

That sounds like an OK 1st step for removing dirt/grease/organics (tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate). You'll still want that acid wash &/or abrasion before going into primer.