1973 18 hp evinrude Driver Coil test

[KC9000]

So another thing I noticed, when setting with meter, put the 1 line on the flywheel in-between the 2 on the mag plate, the end of the points where it touches the cam, are no where near the "set" on the cam. At WOT it is but not at idle. I will re try at the area it's at when setting the lines. Think I'm making this harder then it actually is. Lmao

 

[racerone]

Throttle position DOES NOT matter when setting points with a meter.

 

[KC9000]

Ok, thank you for confirming that. I am gonna redo this and if that don't work, I am gonna put my old condensers in and try that.

 

[gm280]

Just MY opinion... Condensers (capacitors) either work or the they don't. I've never ever seen a condenser intermittent. And the exact same opinion for coils as well. They are either working or not and interment doesn't seem to afflict them either. If they short, they are shorted. If they open they are open. Caps can degrade value, but not intermediately while in operation. Connections to such components can be iffy. But the internals of coils and caps never seem to do that. I've never read a cap or coil and taped on the body and have them jump around with their readings... JMHO

 

[KC9000]

Nice, I appreciate the opinion, as I am very amateur. Getting better through trial and error, felt like I was good when I first put this together and she ran great. Obviously I think the material on the new points that rub the cam has hit the break in period and I have just not timed the thing correctly. I will do it again today and let you know, I think I know what I am doing wrong.

 

[gm280]

Nice, I appreciate the opinion, as I am very amateur. Getting better through trial and error, felt like I was good when I first put this together and she ran great. Obviously I think the material on the new points that rub the cam has hit the break in period and I have just not timed the thing correctly. I will do it again today and let you know, I think I know what I am doing wrong.

I once experienced a "points" problem many many decades ago on my first car. The rubbing block wore down extremely quickly (because I re-bent the spring to increase the tension force for the points to make it stiffer to help stop high RPM bounce. lesson learned the hard way) and it quit working shortly there after from a worn out points rubbing block to the cam lobe. You have to use a little lube on the cam lobe to make it easier for the points rubbing block to ride on without much wear. But just a little grease should do. Just some info...

 

[KC9000]

So pulled the points and took a closer look and took some pics, they look burnt to me, I know I can file them back to shiny, but I am gonna get new ones. Cam guide looks good, not too worn.

 

[KC9000]

So decided to clean them up, while doing so I noticed the one of the pressure springs on the point was not the same as the other, when in place on the mag plate the cam guide was not touching the cam when on the skinny side of cam. Is that normal? When on the thick part of cam it was touching and it opened the point. The other side was touching cam all the way around.

 

[KC9000]

So I carefully set the points with a multimeter and same issue. Missing on top cylinder. Should I replace the points? What else can cause it to intermittently spark? I can remove top spark plug boot and engine runs with none of the missing on one cylinder of course. How likely is It there is internal damage to that top cylinder? I am wondering if the wire coming off that driver coil to that point is damaged or corroded inside? Or the wires below?

 

[KC9000]

So I swapped out the points with the old ones and re gapped according to leeroys rambling and with a multimeter. Same issue, intermittently sparking on the bottom now. I adjusted the driver coil air gap best I could with the eyeball. At a loss. I ordered a new driver coil for giggles, got a decent deal on it, 25 bucks. I am going to try the old condensers next.

 

[oldboat1]

Reset the points by setting the rub rail at the highest point of the cam -- will be the point at which the points open widest. Set to .020. Rotate the mag plate 180 degrees clockwise and repeat with the other set of points. See if that works out better.

 

[KC9000]

Yeah this cam has a set point stamped into it. Anyways got a good update, I reviewed what I did and realized I swapped the condensers. The problem followed the condenser. Did not realize until I reviewed my procedures I have done today. I put a old one on. And tried again and it ran better, with no miss, it did cough as I now need to adjust the carb needle again, it was way to lean. Ran the needle out and my bucket broke!!! Had to stop. Did not get a video yet but will tomorrow. Thank you all for your time. This all helps. I am definitely getting better at troubleshooting.... lmao

 

[oldboat1]

Those mix adjustments are small. Like 1/8 turn and then let the motor catch up.

(wasn't referring to gap itself -- method(s) for setting it. But sounds like you have it right.)

 

[KC9000]

So this is with the old points in and 1 old condenser in, I am going to order some OEM points and condensers. That aftermarket stuff is not the best. Still needs some fine tuning but it's a lot better. I am going to set the points with the multimeter and test again.

 

[KC9000]

Swapped old condensers in and tuned points with a multimeter, checked gap at the set mark on cam, was sitting perfectly at .20 and look at her run. The new condensers in the tune up kit lasted 5 trips, think these old ones are as old as me....lol they sure don't make things the same any more. Had a inadequate bucket so I had to cut it short. Engine started first pull and ran strong with no miss.

 

[oldboat1]

Why don't you put a couple of 2 by 4s or a large paving stone underneath that bucket (raise the water level on the motor) -- and don't race the motor!

Not sure why there is an issue with condensers.

Plug gap should be .030 -- Champions the best bet for your Evinrude, but differences of opinion there.

 

[KC9000]

I did have 2 x 4s under the tote...lol that's what broke it. Well I swapped to the old condensers and that miss is not there. I got champion J4C in. Not sure why the condenser did that either, I know when I test it, the readings go up faster then the others, and to be clear it was only the one to the top cylinder, found it by swapping them and the problem followed the swapped condenser and the miss was on bottom cylinder. it is running good now. Will test in production soon...

 

[oldboat1]

Hey -- well done! May be ready for prime time.

 

[KC9000]

Check it out, it's still not running the best It can but it's running, ready for a test, I bought new OEM Points and condensers, New driver coil, and am gonna get new wires and see if that will smooth it out more. It still seems to some kinda of issue, in this video at the end it just dies, any ideas would be appreciated. I did rich it up a little, would that do it ? I think I need to still find the optimal needle setting, tell me what you think.

 

[racerone]

How does it run with cowling off.?----Do you have a fan blowing exhaust away ?