1972 merc 110 Blue Stripe hood, Ser# 3267158 Exhaust/Steam? coming out taletail

[racerone]

Powerhead needs to be removed.----Just 6 nuts and some linkages.----In my opinion an easy project.-----Not saying it is your problem , but if you do not inspect you don't know.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Powerhead needs to be removed.----Just 6 nuts and some linkages.----In my opinion an easy project.-----Not saying it is your problem , but if you do not inspect you don't know.

Thanks Racerone.
I was hoping not to have to go that far into it, but given what appears to me to be an obvious major leak some where near or in the bottom of the power head, or lower engine case it looks like no choice. At the same time, I guess I need to line up all the names/numbers of seals I need for the lower unit around the upper and lower water pump, shift rod and water tube. I will begin looking over and figure out how to remove the powerhead from the bottom tray.

curious, most parts diagrams for the water pump area show what appears to be a rubber tube (3-6") that is some kind of guide involved with the water tube? My engine has nothing like that that I can see--confusing.
thanks again for the continuing help from all of you guys at i-boats forum

 

[racerone]

After water has gone through the block it is discharged into the exhaust.----You have mistakenly identified that as a major leak.----When you study this after power head is off you will see the simple facts !!

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

After water has gone through the block it is discharged into the exhaust.----You have mistakenly identified that as a major leak.----When you study this after power head is off you will see the simple facts !!

Hi Racerone,
Wow, I would have never guessed that. Obviously, there is enough water pressure involved that allows water to exit the telltale tube, making the telltale just an indicator that the pump is working, but not necessarily that there is adequate water volume and circulation to cool the combustion area.

It appears my merc has 2 general problems. One, seals are compromised allowing water and gear oil to mix and travel outside the gear chamber. 2nd, a circulation problem - lack of water pressure due to bad seals, or disconnected tubing, or blockages in the water channels in the power head area or a combination.

Is it possible that there is a blown head gasket causing or contributing to the problem as well?
Again, thanks for your continuing support.

 

[racerone]

???----There is no head gasket on your motor !!!----A water jacket gasket.----But no cylinder head gasket.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

???----There is no head gasket on your motor !!!----A water jacket gasket.----But no cylinder head gasket.

Thanks, good to know. Is there any reason to pull the head off - or the exhaust plate to check ports/water channels there??
thanks

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Thanks, good to know. Is there any reason to pull the head off - or the exhaust plate to check ports/water channels there??
thanks

???----There is no head gasket on your motor !!!----A water jacket gasket.----But no cylinder head gasket.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Racerone,

update: Pulled power head off of bottom cowling, cleaned up both halves in prep for new install of gasket. Removed all seals, spacers that would come out from shift rod, drive shaft and water pump including the Stainless/chrome impeller basket on the lower 1/2 of the water pump. Al so removed the old nylon "washer" from the bottom cowl under the power head where the copper water inlet tube ends. Accidentally pulled the shift rod out of the LU when I removed the shift rod bushing - much fun getting it seated so I had Reverse, Neutral and Forward functions again. The water pump shell (both halves) were a little ragged and pitted - possibly from heat and abrasion, smoothed them off and removed burrs. Don't think I removed any great about of material, and with the stainless cup/insert and the stainless top plate I don’t think it will affect its operation at all.

It looks like I'll need at least a dozen seals/washers to order and reinstall, the stainless water pump insert/basket, and one gasket for the powerhead to cowl joint to order plus a new impeller.
Questions: (3)
1. You mentioned that there are different sized diameters of the impeller shaft hole - all impellers I have seen thru "Oldmerc.com", MarineEngine.com, E-bay and other sources don't comment of alternative sizes - they seem to only offer one size. The ID of the old impeller as best as I can measure and estimate is 0.453". The diameter seemed OK but there was a slight “rotational” slop before I disassembled it.
2. Is there a need to take the cylinder head off for inspection and cleaning etc?
3. Is there a need to disassemble the exhaust plates to inspect, clean up and re gasket?

thanks again for your continuing support

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Hi Racerone,
correction of my previous note of "updates" of Yesterday. I tried to measure the actual drive shaft at the impeller mounting point where iy flares out. Hard to caliper, but I got a little different reading. Drive shaft at flare out came up at 0.4575 to maybe 0.4578". I did this in case the old impeller was out of round or badly worn.
thanks again for you help

 

[racerone]

Is there a part # on your old impeller.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Is there a part # on your old impeller.

Racerone,
Just checked - I could not find one. I re-measured the ID of the old one, for the unteenth time and as always, it varies a little. This time In got somewhere between 29.3/64th and 29.5/64" or on the 10th s scale .0456 to .0457" Not sure which direction to go given the precision of the tools I have on hand.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Is there a part # on your old impeller.

Hi again Racerone,
Fish are biting, boats not moving. Decided to bite the bullet and order parts and charge into it. If interested, the attachment shows parts ordered and what I plan to replace and other info. Parts not on the order list means I'm re-using old parts.

You're advice please: because I seem to have a water supply problem or blockage, should I attempt to crack the cylinder head AND the exhaust cover to look for other potential blockages?
thanks for sticking it out.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Hi again Racerone,
Fish are biting, boats not moving. Decided to bite the bullet and order parts and charge into it. If interested, the attachment shows parts ordered and what I plan to replace and other info. Parts not on the order list means I'm re-using old parts.

You're advice please: because I seem to have a water supply problem or blockage, should I attempt to crack the cylinder head AND the exhaust cover to look for other potential blockages?
thanks for sticking it out.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Is there a part # on your old impeller.

Hi racerone,
Update
Your thoughts please,

Decided not to pull the cylinder top water jacket, or the exhaust plate assembly. Hoping that there are no stoppages or problems there.

I’m assuming I got the shift rod back in normal position –
One position turning the drive shaft clockwise, causes the propeller shaft to turn clockwise. In that position, when I turn the prop the opposite direction (and hold the drive shaft) I can turn the prop backwards with a clutch “clicking” sound. I assume this if “forward gear. There is neutral if I turn the shift rod a little, and if I continue to turn it the shift rod until it stops and again turn the drive shaft clockwise, and the propeller shaft turns counterclockwise. In this last scenario, the propeller is engaged in either direction and there is substantial slop between the drive shaft and the propeller shaft but will not freewheel in any direction I assume this is reverse mode. I hope that is all normal.

I will this week, finish assembly of the water pump shells/seals/o rings etc. and then give the drive shaft a quick spin with a drill (clockwise) in a bucket of water to ensure that the water pump is put back together correctly and hopefully confirm the shift rod etc. is running as designed.
After that, reassemble the lower unit and barrel test it.

As always, thoughts, advice is welcome from you and the group.
thanks

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Is there a part # on your old impeller.

racerone,
as per my last 4-5 message/contacts, I put it back together today and barrel tested - seem to work ok. LU didn't want to close up tight, about 1/8" gap, but that disappeared with tightening the two nuts that hold the lower unit together with the exhaust column. Hopefully all is well for now. I did a compression test just to rule our a bad gasket, both cylinders were the same at 115# each.
Thank for the help

 

[racerone]

There are no gaskets on that motor that have anything to do with cylinder compression !

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

There are no gaskets on that motor that have anything to do with cylinder compression !

racerone
got it.
Time will tell if the work I did will hold up.
thanks again