1972 merc 110 Blue Stripe hood, Ser# 3267158 Exhaust/Steam? coming out taletail

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Hello all,
Motor worked fine last season, started up with 2 pulls today after sitting all winter. Ran like a champ. however, flow from pee hole was light to moderate at idle, but eventually when run at higher speeds (in barrel) stream sputtered, then ran ok, then sputter and water temp was very hot. About 30 seconds later either steam or exhaust (I guess I mixed the first gas batch a little rich) came out in a regular pulse pattern. Subsequent re starts would produce intermittent water stream then steam/smoke-exhaust. Reamed out pea hole tube about 8" back to exhaust plate on side of motor but no change in pattern. Before I figure out how to drop the lower unit to check pump, or remove side (exhaust?) plate on power head where the pee hole tube originates, I thought is might be best to check to see what order I should start checking and what area I should start first. Lower unit was well under water when tested, and no external blockages were seen at the water intake. Assuming some disassembly is required, would like to have a detailed service manual and parts diagrams/torque specs etc as my "crutch". I just (2 years ago) stuck $200 for a ignition switch module (fenolic?) and $50 of other parts plus all new ignition wiring now hate to see that go to waste without at least attempting to getting it back up and running as it should.
Any help would be appreciated.
thanks.
toooldtofishsoshootem

 

[roscoe]

If you don't know when the when the water pump impeller was last changed, start there.
And thermostat.

A repair manual that covers the motor should get you through the impeller change.
A Clymer manual is ok.
Factory manual ok.
Selor manual no so good.

 

[racerone]

Just 2 nuts to remove the lower unit.-----Could be a bad impeller( needs new one every 2 or 3 years ) and or plastic washer at top of water tube melted.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Just 2 nuts to remove the lower unit.-----Could be a bad impeller( needs new one every 2 or 3 years ) and or plastic washer at top of water tube melted.

Thanks for the quick comeback racerone. Impeller changed maybe 4-5 years ago? not sure. I will order a kit and start there. I'll get back to both you and roscue once it is in and tested in the barrel.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Just 2 nuts to remove the lower unit.-----Could be a bad impeller( needs new one every 2 or 3 years ) and or plastic washer at top of water tube melted.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

If you don't know when the when the water pump impeller was last changed, start there.
And thermostat.

A repair manual that covers the motor should get you through the impeller change.
A Clymer manual is ok.
Factory manual ok.
Selor manual no so good.

Thanks for the quick comeback roscue. Impeller changed maybe 4-5 years ago? not sure. I will order a kit and start there. I'll get back to both you and racerone once it is in and tested in the barrel. I'll look for a manual -- any on line (free ) that you know of?

 

[JDusza]

Before your drop the lower unit, try pushing a wire up the tell tale. Insects love those small dark holes.
I can't tell you how many times I've seen this prevent a water pump job.
J

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Before your drop the lower unit, try pushing a wire up the tell tale. Insects love those small dark holes.
I can't tell you how many times I've seen this prevent a water pump job.
J

Thanks JDusza for the tip. I have already attempted to clear the tube to within about 2-3" from the Exhaust plate outlet, with no change in outcome. I might attempt to remove the hose/tube from the exhaust plate outlet just to make sure there is no obstruction there but truthfully I don't expect anything. The fact that the pee hole sometimes exhibits a "pulsing" steam/smoke discharge makes me think it's more a bad impellor, blocked tube between impeller and exhaust plate, or a bad gasket in the water side of the exhaust system (blown gasket, blockage in the exhaust plate cavity etc.).
After checking the last 2-3" of the taletail flexible tube, I will look at the lower unit/impeller and plastic/rubber seal/connectors.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Just 2 nuts to remove the lower unit.-----Could be a bad impeller( needs new one every 2 or 3 years ) and or plastic washer at top of water tube melted.

razorone and roscoe
Hi, not sure how to answer all comebacks with one message, so I'll just choose one to respond to if that works.
I removed lower unit (LU) and made the following observations and discoveries – sorry this get so long, but I’ve found out in the past that some of the smallest details can solve the biggest problems.

• Drained the LU 80-90W gear oil I just put in yesterday prior to startup – upper bleed hole overflowed with oil caped off and continued to start up. Don’t know how much I put in, but when I drained it prior to removing LU, I recovered 3.2Oz of gear lube. Recovered lube was greenish and milky white telling me there was water mixed in with the oil. Surprising because the motor LU was immersed for about one hour and only run intermittently for 2-5 minutes total before I figured out I had a problem.
• Removed LU. LU cavity was heavily coated with milky white/greenish lube, some fresh, some old looking. Additionally, a small amount of water also came out when I cracked and removed the LU (maybe ½ cup or less). Did not know if any oil, water should be inside the LU cavity at all, or if this is normal.
• [possible indication of bad propeller shaft seals? Seals on drive shaft or shift rod bad??
• Inspected LU, pump housing, etc disassembled pump and inspected again.
• Noticed seal/“washer” around shift rod was free moving but not totally compromised,
• Seal/washer around drive shaft where it penetrates upper pump body was a fairly loose fit, but where the shaft penetrates the lower half of the pump body there was very little play or looseness.
• The seal around the upper pump body and the copper tube feeding the power head was pretty loose
• See pics on Pump internals
• Impeller seemed serviceable individual fins making contact at all times. Had some slight freying but appeared to be NOT badly worn.
• The washer/rubber spacer (somewhat flexible) what ever it is., fell out at some point during of working with the LU and after I disassembled the water pump. NO idea where it came from, or what it’s purpose it serves.
  Doesn’t seem to fit and nest in any particular place.
• Some kind of “key” was discovered in the lower half pump body but appeared to possibly be a “key” to orient the impeller properly and to stop the impeller from spinning on the drive shaft. Mucho tricky to reinstall. I assume the “key” is not broken off from somewhere and serves the same function as a woodruff key on any other shaft.
• Blew air from the water pump body (before disassembly) and some air did come out the water intake port of the LU. Also blew air up the copper tube running up to the power head and also had some air come out the taletail tube. Both cases however, the air exiting did not seem to be equal to the air I put in (@90#) – but air did come out regardless. Air thru the pump housing I can understand the impeller would greatly reduce to volume coming out. However, I expected a hard steady stream of air to come out the taletail hole as well and it did not.

Any feedback appreciated to all my many questions/observations above and as to what to look for or dive into next.
Noticed some "on line" service manuals -- anyone know of one that I could download free? Does a service manual have full "exploded" parts diagrams?
thanks for the return messages so far, really appreciate them.

 

[racerone]

That impeller is GARBAGE needs a new one.----Measure the shaft size to get the right one.----Yes you need that----" some kind of key "---- to drive / spin the impeller !

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

That impeller is GARBAGE needs a new one.----Measure the shaft size to get the right one.----Yes you need that----" some kind of key "---- to drive / spin the impeller !

My apologies to fumbling up you handle. racerone not razorone. No offence was meant.

Replacement impeller should be I hope no problem, and good to hear about the "key". I was afraid that broke off from the shaft, or impeller or somewhere else.

Is the water and water contaminated gear oil normal in the LU cavity outside/above the gearbox?
My top half of the water pump looks very pitted - should it be replaced as well and if so, do the little rubber seals inside the cover come with the new pump half?
thanks again for the speedy response.

 

[roscoe]

As said above, make sure you measure the diameter of the driveshaft because they were made with two different shafts. Have to get the corresponding impeller.

There should be no water in the gearcase.
And no lube above the gearcase.
You can pressure test the gearcase with 2-4# of air, no more.
A gearcase seal kit is available.

I doubt you will find a pump housing.
Impeller, wear plate and o-ring are available.

Fyi - you do not need to drain the gear lube to remove the gearcase, but in this instance, it a good thing you did, as you found the milk lube issue.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

As said above, make sure you measure the diameter of the driveshaft because they were made with two different shafts. Have to get the corresponding impeller.

There should be no water in the gearcase.
And no lube above the gearcase.
You can pressure test the gearcase with 2-4# of air, no more.
A gearcase seal kit is available.

I doubt you will find a pump housing.
Impeller, wear plate and o-ring are available.

Fyi - you do not need to drain the gear lube to remove the gearcase, but in this instance, it a good thing you did, as you found the milk lube issue.

again, thank both for responding. I'll have to check tomorrow to see if my son has a pressure tester. (he is a mechanic for the city) Also I will get a service manual (PDF downloadable version). After the pressure test I can then order whatever seals are needed once I have the part numbers from the service manual. I don't ever recall any leaking lube evidence around the propeller or propeller shaft seals - hoping that those seals are OK. Suspect I will need all the "O" rings/seals that are part of the upper pump housing and possibly around the shift rod. I'll recontract after the pressure test with results.
thanks again

 

[roscoe]

just a couple # of air pressure with the gearcase in a tub of water, look for bubbles.

Seals are available as a set. Not sure you will find individual seals.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

just a couple # of air pressure with the gearcase in a tub of water, look for bubbles.

Seals are available as a set. Not sure you will find individual seals.

Thanks roscoe,
I think my air compressor regulator will throttle down to 4 # - I'll use that with the screw-in gear grease tube I use for refilling the gear case and jury rig a Rube Goldberg thig-a-ma-jig. If that fails, I see if I can wrangle one from my son if he has one. Any suggestions as to a good knowledgeable source for parts?
thanks again

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Thanks roscoe,
I think my air compressor regulator will throttle down to 4 # - I'll use that with the screw-in gear grease tube I use for refilling the gear case and jury rig a Rube Goldberg thig-a-ma-jig. If that fails, I see if I can wrangle one from my son if he has one. Any suggestions as to a good knowledgeable source for parts?
thanks again

just a couple # of air pressure with the gearcase in a tub of water, look for bubbles.

Seals are available as a set. Not sure you will find individual seals.

Hi again,
didn't need the tub of water to test in - like putting sights on a shotgun when your shooting 3' in front of you at a watermelon! I doubt I had 2-3 # injected continually into the LU and you could feel the air coming out of the lower 1/2 of the water pump. The leak was big enough that I don't think any other leaks at the shift, propeller shaft or any where else could have been seen. Will have to stop this main leakage first before testing the remaining seals for integrity. I pulled out the lower 1/2 of the pump housing exposing the ball bearing for the drive shaft and noticed the conventional seal and "O" ring on the underside of the lower 1/2 of the pump. I assume these both have to be replaced.

Still need to find a parts/service manual -are they one in the same?. Do any of you have a preferred source for parts for an older engine like this one?

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

Hi again,
didn't need the tub of water to test in - like putting sights on a shotgun when your shooting 3' in front of you at a watermelon! I doubt I had 2-3 # injected continually into the LU and you could feel the air coming out of the lower 1/2 of the water pump. The leak was big enough that I don't think any other leaks at the shift, propeller shaft or any where else could have been seen. Will have to stop this main leakage first before testing the remaining seals for integrity. I pulled out the lower 1/2 of the pump housing exposing the ball bearing for the drive shaft and noticed the conventional seal and "O" ring on the underside of the lower 1/2 of the pump. I assume these both have to be replaced.

Still need to find a parts/service manual -are they one in the same?. Do any of you have a preferred source for parts for an older engine like this one?

Roscoe,
hello again
I air tested the remaining cooling tube system and noticed that air is leaking out inside the drive shaft tube. If I blow air into the copper water tube at the point where it would normally hook up with the water pump, it freely comes out the pee tube but you can hear a hollow "hiss" inside the drive shaft housing somewhere up or at the connection point of the power head. If I block the pee tube hole, the hissing gets a little louder but not much. Sounds like there is a break or disconnection of the copper tube at the power head, in the underside of the power head, or the copper tube itself is compromised. Note that the copper tube seems to be firmly attached somewhere up inside the drive shaft housing is is not "flopply" or feel loose. Any thoughts?

I now have a service manual and a parts manual on hand. parts manual very useful, service manual - not so much - (guess I'm juvenile - pictures are worth many words )
thanks

 

[racerone]

Normal.-----Water dumps out of the engine to cool the exhaust.----Check the plastic washer at the top of the copper water tube.

 

[roscoe]

mercury dealer may have the factory parts if they are still available.
I couldn't find it listed here on iboats.
maxrules dot com is a good resource for parts. (mastertech marine )

If unsure what to order, you can call them.

 

[toooldtofishsoshootem]

mercury dealer may have the factory parts if they are still available.
I couldn't find it listed here on iboats.
maxrules dot com is a good resource for parts. (mastertech marine )

If unsure what to order, you can call them.

Roscoe and Racerone
Thanks for the lead on the parts and the heads up on the washer/seal at the end of the copper tube. The seals/washers etc where the copper tube attaches to the bottom plate in the power head area.....do I need to disassemble the driveshaft housing from the bottom plate? or is there a way to access the tube washer/seal without removal of the power head?