1972 Johnson 85 HP (85ESL72R) No Spark, stuck

JLMEMT

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Jul 3, 2022
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TDL;
Cleaned out tank and put in fresh fuel, got running on muffs, ran ok with throttle but would die if slowed down and was slow to restart (seems possibly heat and electronic related), replaced powerpack and ignition coil (wires were in horrible shape), started up and ran well, shut down and restarted well. Moved from muffs to a small tank and wouldn't start. Spark looked somewhat spotty and then lost it entirely on upper left. Now have no spark anywhere. On the CDI troubleshooting step six I get 6 volts DVA from the blue wire to the coil instead of 200v. The ignition coil tests to spec. While trouble shooting I did find that the new coil had separated from the connector due to a poor crimp. I fixed that and have good continuity. (What happens if the coil doesn't' have anywhere to send the juice? I did a fair amount of testing and cranking before finding the bad wire.)

I have worked on a fair amount of stuff, but this is the first outboard. I got a spark gap tester and DVA module. I do not have a timing light yet. FYI, compression looks good.

I don't know what else to try at this point. Thanks for any help.

Jason

A little more of the story if you want it;
I just obtained my first boat and it has the original 1972 Johnson 85hp outboard. We got it running on muffs before I took it over, but he told me that on the water it tended to not want to idle. I took it out the first day and turned up the idle a little to keep it running. It would run ok with throttle, but after it did it would die and take a long time to restart. I did this several times before deciding to give up for the day. I took a closer look at it and the wiring from the powerpack was extremely corroded. I took a stab at fixing it, which to be short failed. I replaced the powerpack and coil with a CDI kit. It fired right up and ran decent on muffs. I shut it down and restarted it, since that seemed to be a problem before and it fired right up again. I moved it to a drum of water to try and test at a little more than idle and it wouldn't start. The previous owner said that it always ran well on muffs, but worse on the water when I told him where I was. So I took it out of the drum just to try, but I still have no spark.
 

racerone

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Remove flywheel.----Remove rotor and distributor cap.----Clean and set breaker points.----Inspect anti-reversing spring.-----Clean distributor cap.----Assemble test for spark.
 

JLMEMT

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I did all of that today. Things were very dirty and the points were tight, but still no spark.
Only 6v DVA on the blue wire from the brand new power pack instead of 200v. But can't find anything else wrong.
 

clemsonfor

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I do not know but like you hinted at. If there is no where to discharge will they burn themselves up? I do not know the answer to this question, just reiterating what you had said.
 

JLMEMT

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I'll try to reach out to CDI tomorrow, just want to try and have everything I can covered before then. And obviously wether they cover it or not I don't want anything to happen to the next one.

If it is a problem to not have anywhere for that energy to go to, then I have corrected that. If that isn't a problem then I still have no idea unless it was a very weak pack. The bolt holes weren't right and the crimp on the coil wire wasn't right, so who knows what else wasn't good.
 

JLMEMT

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Sending the power pack in to CDI to see what they say. It obviously failed. Doesn't make me optimistic for long term trouble free performance.
 

KillerKilgore

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May 29, 2010
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46
I replaced stator and regulator a few years back on my 110hp. CDI told me the number one reason the regulator and stator burn up is the wing nuts on battery.
Meaning not having a good connection to battery posts will cause the charging components to fry. Ever since then I've put regular battery terminals on and dielectric grease every year. No charging trouble since.
 

clemsonfor

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I replaced stator and regulator a few years back on my 110hp. CDI told me the number one reason the regulator and stator burn up is the wing nuts on battery.
Meaning not having a good connection to battery posts will cause the charging components to fry. Ever since then I've put regular battery terminals on and dielectric grease every year. No charging trouble since.
Yes many folks here and other places say ditch the wing nuts. I would imagine this is especially important on today's computer controlled engines .
 

JLMEMT

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CDI did replace the pack, didn't give me any info at all. I believe I have it figured out, but will see once I can actually get it on the water.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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If still using them, snug up wing nuts with a pliers, not by hand. You may need to replace the rectifier.
 

JLMEMT

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Jul 3, 2022
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Took it off.
The rectifier was one of the problems.

Now starting and idling, but appears to need some tuning or other fixes still. Don't have full power. But I believe the ignition side is taken care of.
 

KillerKilgore

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May 29, 2010
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I did the "Joe Reeves Timing Method" and it worked GREAT.

When I got my boad/engine it would idle great but would fall on its face in the water. After new plugs and wires. New stator and regulator. Doing Joe Reeves timing method. My boat will walk on water. Just search and you will find the steps.
 

JLMEMT

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Jul 3, 2022
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Thank you. Waiting for parts again. Discovered that the low speed screws are all the way in and too loose to do anything else so I've got new retainers coming.
 
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