1972 15' Nova rebuild

[jbcurt00]

Anyone ever try that USC All Metal body filler?

I have some of their aluminum AL metal filler, but haven't used any yet. I plan to, probably on the grinding damage on the bow of my Duracraft.

There probably isn't any filler on the interior side of those ground off rivets, so my suggestion to use a washer or plate was for on the outside of the hull to make sure you didn't chip any of the existing well stuck filler off. Since I don't know how bad (probably fairly minor if it doesn't show much on the inside) and really how thick it is, I figured a small plate would spread the load over a larger area then the 'pop' rivet head of a closed end blind rivet and prevent it from chipping long term.

If in the process of drawing the rivet tight the filler pops/chips at the thru hole, if bad enough, it might compromise the sealing of the thru hole and cause the rivet to draw down below the face of the filler. That'd be less then ideal too........

 

[Watermann]

A solid rivet in that location is bound to be structural, if you don't have the ability to mush a solid back in it's place then I would suggest using a SS machine screw and nyloc as a 2nd choice rather than a blind rivet. So it doesn't look perfect up close, well tell the guy swimming next to the boat staring at it to pi$$ off :lol:

 

[MNhunter1]

If I take down the area around the rivets to bare metal and build it back up with JB Weld, MT, or the All Metal, would I be able to feather into the existing bondo? Not sure how well it would stick to the bondo, but figure I could then re-drill the holes and install the new rivets or screws as WM suggested without the need for the washers. Other though was to clean off all the existing bondo and give it a go with the All Metal. I'm looking at going with a flat paint, so it wouldn't have to be perfect.

 

[MNhunter1]

Older pic, but the area circled is where the rivets in question are located, attaching the rib support.

 

[Watermann]

It's going to be bare metal under the rivet head so why not just replace it after removing with a rivet or machine screw?

Both of my boats are showing dock damage in that same area from the PO's and I'm sure you will end up doing something similar down the road. If you hit a section of bondo stuff it could dislodge and then be ugly as sin. I did have some sharp creases that I made less noticeable by filling with marine tex thinking it would be way tougher than a body filler that can absorb water if or when the paint gets chipped on the repair.

Like was said to me by a wise boatsman once, "what're building there, a trailer queen showboat?" when I was here obsessing over hull dings. Ya know he was right and when I'm on the lake I don't even think about them let alone see any. My thought was what the heck, adds character to the old tin and besides boats are viewed from yards not inches.

 

[MNhunter1]

It's going to be bare metal under the rivet head so why not just replace it after removing with a rivet or machine screw?
Both of my boats are showing dock damage in that same area from the PO's and I'm sure you will end up doing something similar down the road. If you hit a section of bondo stuff it could dislodge and then be ugly as sin. I did have some sharp creases that I made less noticeable by filling with marine tex thinking it would be way tougher than a body filler that can absorb water if or when the paint gets chipped on the repair.
Like was said to me by a wise boatsman once, "what're building there, a trailer queen showboat?" when I was here obsessing over hull dings. Ya know he was right and when I'm on the lake I don't even think about them let alone see any. My thought was what the heck, adds character to the old tin and besides boats are viewed from yards not inches.

I do plan on replacing them, just trying to determine if I should clear all the bondo to bare metal, replace, and live with the scar, or clear bondo, fill the scar with JB, MT, or the All Metal stuff rather than the bondo, then replace the thru hull rivets or screws. So, fit the rivet head against the actual hull, or against a filler with a bit more structure than bondo.

I think I just need to clear the bondo and see what it really looks like underneath... paralysis by analysis...

 

[BigMikey86]

Strip her down! its the only way to get the whole picture! I'm glad i did with my resto, because if i didn't I'm not sure how much boating i would have gotten in before she become an ornament for Lake trout. Nice boat MN, judging by your transom our boats may have been owned by distant relatives, although mine was the crazy uncle with the sawzall that nobody talked to. Work looks good so far, keep it up!

 

[MNhunter1]

Took advantage of the kids nap time today and got the transom patch it place, skimmed the inside of the transom skin with Marine-tex, and got the aluminum transom pad cut. I'll get some pics up on Monday when I'm back at work. Too much trouble doing it from the phone.

 

[MNhunter1]

Broke out the MT this weekend and attacked the transom patch and skimmed the inside transom skin pitting as a result of the old waterlogged transom wood. Held the patch piece in place with some packaging tape, layed down the MT, then sandwiched it between two pieces of ply using wax paper as a non-stick barrier. Turned out rather well actually, just need to do a little sanding and reassess for another skim of MT. Cut the transom pad from an old aluminum street sign and mocked it up for fit. I'll end up slapping it on with some 5200 and securing the corners with either machine screws/nylocks or rivets in addition to the transom thru bolts for the knee brace and motor mounts.

 

[MNhunter1]

Continued...



Scored some seats of a local CL add, 3 for $20...guess we'll be going grey on the interior


Little package arrive from iboats with some goodies...


And hit up the local Dollar Tree to grab some noodles before they disappear for the season. I'll be checking the store on the other side of town to snatch up what they have left in stock as well...

 

[Watermann]

Yeah MN that patch looks great, no doubt it should hold up just fine. :encouragement:

 

[GA_Boater]

The patch looks real good, MN. The seats are a good score, too. Way to go!

 

[MNhunter1]

Not sure what other models utilize the same rubber windshield seal/gasket as the Nova, but I just received a sample from Taylor Made of part# 8288020 and it looks to be a perfect match of the original with exception of the holes/slots for the t-bolts, which can be easily added. Score!

 

[MNhunter1]

Figured it was time for a little update... Work has been slow with limited time, but I'm managing to get a little bit done here and there every day. Braced the transom and dash mounts with some 2x's and flipped her off the trailer to finish the bottom of the hull and prep for paint. Found a nice thru hole the PO covered with some JB weld hiding under the bow stop. I had known the JB was there, just finally got the band aid tore off to reveal the extent of the injury. I had contemplated another band aid fix, but think I'll just get it welded. It's becoming pretty obvious with the repaired bow eye and now this hole that it suffered an accident on the trailer at one point in it's lifetime. A few other dents and such around the area, but otherwise the rest of the hull looks to be in pretty good shape. I did manage to get the solid rivets under that bondo repair punched out and will replace with machine screws, nyloks, and 5200...6 in total. The tilt trailer has been all stripped down and I'll be getting to work on getting it prepped for new primer and paint. I'd like to pick up a couple more keel rollers, but can't seem to find any brackets to mate up with the non-standard on-center bolt holes (4-1/8" or 6-3/8") in the cross members. Not sure if mounting with U-bolts would put them higher than I'd like (I'd like to keep them as low as possible), or if I should just drill new holes?? There's always the option of the independent brackets as well, just might be a little more headach to adjust.

Anyway, work continues. Hope to get the trailer completed so I can transport the hull to a welder, finish stripping the paint off the bottom of the hull, and prep for paint. Not sure whether I'll manage to get the paint on her before putting her away for the winter, or if I'll just get it ready to shoot first thing in the spring. Wish I had a bigger garage :grumpy:

 

[MNhunter1]

Also...I'm going to replace the stock bow eye with one of the 3/8" U-bolt type. Would I be fine just filling the old bolt holes with JB weld (I'll be drilling two new ones through the center and mounting a bit lower than the previous one)? I'd like to center it more on the repair patch and align it better with my trailer winch.

 

[Watermann]

Youch that's a nasty gash and in a bad spot to repair. The bow eye replacement is a good idea. I did the same thing on my SN after the goof PO pulled out the original and welded on a plate over the mess just like yours. I would fill the holes with JB, sand smooth on the outside and put gluvit on the inside. Here's what the inside looked like, you can see the old holes I filled.

 

[MNhunter1]

Finally!! Just a few little touch ups on some of the trim pieces and all the blue be gone. Spent many more hours on the stripping process than I had anticipated, but I think the set-up and clean-up from the multiple sessions burning the midnight oil really boiled down to the time consuming part. I think next time I'll just send the wife and kids away for a day and knock it all out at once.

Nice little crease up the bow, not sure if I should leave the scar or fill it in before paint. I'm leaning towards leaving it alone.

Now...if only the angle grinder didn't make so much noise in the wee hours of the night, I'd have the trailer all stripped down already as well.

 

[64osby]

If you can get to the crease from the inside some gentle taps with a rubber mallet of a dead blow might take some of it out.

Do they make a quite grinder?

 

[classiccat]

Lookin good mn! Wear that crease like a tin badge of honor :madgrin: That's been distorted pretty good...trying to work b it too much may cause it to crack. you may want to give those rivets along the crease a close inspection.

 

[Watermann]

Looking good, like a naked turtle :thumb:

One thing you could do is to soften the crease, I did that with some marine tex on a crease in the Chief and just made it to where the eye doesn't pick it up so easily.