1971 starcraft holiday I/O

[dmoriarty51]

Hi all I'm considering joining the starmada in the form of a 71 I/O 18ft i believe it would be a holiday model. Anything specific to the model that i should look out for? Obviously all wood needs replaced, infact the floor has already been pulled. The motor is the 4 cylinder mercruiser of the era. It is listed as needing some engine work.

None of the work scares me, supposedly no dents or extra holes. Fella claims he got it at auction and decided he doesnt have room for it. Claims to have appropriate paperwork. I wont list the where or the how much because its a steal so long as it floats. I plan to go see it in the am hopefully.


So again I ask any specific known structural things to look for in the aluminum structure? The interior wood is already gone so seeing/finding them should be easy.

 

[dmoriarty51]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Also, does anyone know the persons/weight capacity?

 

[roscoe]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Wow, sounds like mine, except my interior wood is all good and intact, and I haven't run the classified ad yet.

Expect to replace seals in drive line, gas lines, etc.

Let me know if you need photos of anything.

 

[dmoriarty51]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

looks to be what it is

Roscoe, do you know how wide she is on the inside of the gunwales? One of my biggest complaints about my current boat is its narrow interior.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

I redid a '65. Your year model is a lot more refined....at least the 120 (mine was the first issue 110 and for the boat loaded and water skis, a bit small), possibly the 140 hp engine (preferred). Fuel efficiency was excellent. Engine is a piece of cake to work on. Just remember this is a Chevy block with marine "innerds" (so that it can run at WOT all day). When you get the outdrive off and engine out to redo the transom, it's easy to work on. My biggest problem was getting the bellows back on. Course I had never done this before, and worked alone. Maybe the 71 is easier than the 65. Would surely liked to have the PTT rather than just the tilt but that's all they had back then. PTT probably would have helped to get the bellows back on.

Transom was not that much trouble. Used the old one for a pattern to cut the new hole. I got 2 sheets of cabinet grade plywood, glued together to get the 1 1/2" and treated thoroughly. Ensure that you get the outdrive mounting height where it was originally. This sets your antivent plate (horizontal plate just above the prop) to bottom dimension and is important for proper performance. Unlike an outboard, you can't pull the bolts out and move it up or down a notch.

The deck (floor) was 3/8" plywood and I think I found marine plywood for that. Reason for marine is that the glue is water proof and there are lots of plies as compared to other types. Worth the money. I don't remember why I didn't worry about the transom not being marine. Maybe was accessibility, maybe because it was not on the deck where water would be on it all the time.

I used marine grade carpet after I sealed the deck and it worked for the reason I selected it.....non slip, for me and gear. I didn't replace the vinyl for that reason. Pop riveted the deck back on. Flotation was white styrofoam sheets and was not water logged, like you find with open cell foams. So I just reused what I had.

Considering it a monohull it is a very soft riding, stable boat in good (larger) waves, even though it's alum. and not a deep V. I had 4 fishermen out once in mine and we all had room to fish. I liked the high gunwales. Leaning up against them made fishing easy.

I just assume this brand of boats was primarily made for fishing the great lake region and as a result were made for big water.

When trailering, since you can't see the outdrive from your tow vehicle, ensure that the OD is supported mechanically. Don't rely on your hydraulics. Just don't need to take a chance on them failing.

Mark

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Take a look at this restoration and it will give you the inspiration to do your boat http://forums.iboats.com/completed-boat-projects/66-starcraft-sunchief-re-build-325768.html

 

[roscoe]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Capacity is 8 people at 150#, or 1700 pounds. Which makes no sense because there is only seating for 6.






Not sure on floor width, maybe 66" ? Narrow compared to todays boats.

 

[dmoriarty51]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

thanks for the info roscoe, and bob i have seen the liquid limo thread along with lurking through many others. I'm going to check it out and barring massive structural issue or it looking like a well crinkled beer can its coming home with me.

heres hoping im getting in over my head

 

[dmoriarty51]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

it followed me home, pics to come later.

 

[dmoriarty51]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

only pic i got before work today, she is pretty straight im hoping i got enough paperwork to get her in my name without issues, but now at home out of the sun i can see the word titled stamped across the registration in very faded ink. a quick search shows iowa can do a bonded title with a little leg work, most recent registration expired in 2005 so its been sitting a while, the fella i picked it up from got it at a farm auction so odds are the listed owner may have passed away. i have a trailer registration that appears to have it as a homebuilt already, and those are easy to get anyways

other thoughts,

it has the 140hp merc decal on the back, and its a 4 cylinder. what displacement is this?

man this thing is deep....

based on the condition of the transom wood, THANK GOD someone yanked the floor already.

gonna try to float it and see what the rivet situation is heres hoping the bellows will hold water out for that process.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

1997 sales brochure (only one I have) lists the L4: 3.0 liter LX, 135 prop hp (140 brake would guess) L-4, 4.00 x 3.60 BS, 9.3:1 comp, 2 BBL, 4400-4600, conventional ignition (points-coil probably) 55 amp alternator. This engine evolved from the Chevy II block and was upgraded over the years from my 110 with 1 BBl and all to the 140. Above that they went with the Ford 300 cu in 6 cyl rated net at 165 which was a popular engine to fill in below the V8s of the day. The 140 on that boat will be super.

The fact that the outdrive is held up with rope speaks volumes. I'd expect to go through the whole thing and be done with it. If the outdrive isn't corroded up where there are seals, great. If so, remake what's eaten away with JB weld and file/grind to fit.

On the constant velocity joint which is the connection between the drive shaft (to the outdrive) and the actual outdrive, get it new and get the exact part. The reason for this is that if you mickey mouse this part, when you turn the outdrive side to side you will get a vibration and it is very annoying; farther you turn, worse it gets. BTDT

Once you get the OD off and engine out, the restoration is not that bad. I lifted the engine short out block out and sat it on the gunwale. Couple of neighbors lifted it from there and put on a dolly so I could work on it.

I took my boat to a sandblaster in Dallas and he blasted the hull and trailer. He had the boat hanging on an I beam hoist that went around his facility. I had him paint the hull with epoxy paint while he had it hanging. Looked real nice, but wasn't a 2013 clear coat quality. But didn't matter. I painted the deck after I got it home.

I had the boat totally gutted when I took it over there and he knew how to blast. He said that you have to be careful with alum. as it will overheat and you will blow holes in it. I wouldn't sweat the rivets unless a visual shows one needing replacement. If you pull up the restoration pages on here and swab the inside with that hull sealer the guy uses and have no visible loose ones you should be good to go.

After he blasted the trailer, I took it over to a galvanizing facility where they do cross country tower components, disassembled it, had them dip it in the vat, reassembled it and drove it back over and put the boat on it, taking it home.

Again, I used my styrofoam sheets again as there was a little mildew on them but it didn't hurt anything. And yes, they are just laid in there and the deck installed over them.


Good luck,
Mark

 

[dmoriarty51]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Thanks for the info Mark. Its just about too dang hot to do anything up here in Iowa this weekend but might go float it this evening once i can get an extra set of hands. After that get the ownership all sorted out and start a resto/build thread.

I was digging around last night and this is an early alpha outdrive? So if the motor and drive has to many issues a fella could find a newer Distressed glasser with funtional drivetrain and transplant correct? I imagine a 3.0 at 130-140 hp is plenty for the weight of this tinny so need to go to a larger engine.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Welcome to the Starmada!

She should fix up nice and be a great boat for another 40 years. If you think the Holiday is deep and beefy, check out the old Chief's and Islanders.

Don't get ahead of yourself on worrying about leaks right now. I would pull the motor, outdrive assembly and transom out straight away. I wouldn't risk putting the boat in a lake at this point, that motor weighs in around 400 Lbs so you should do some visual inspections underneath first to make sure what you have. Inspect the entire chine that runs along the waterline to make sure you don't have any cracks in it. Then when ready for repairs, after cleaning everything up just add water to the inside, get underneath and mark any leaks. Personally before a leak test, I fix all the things I know will leak and put down the gluvit on seams and rivets below the waterline. Then I test it for leaks.

She is going to be a fun project for sure, will be keeping my eye out for your thread on the resto.

 

[Grandad]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Hi all I'm considering joining the starmada in the form of a 71 I/O 18ft i believe it would be a holiday model. Anything specific to the model that i should look out for?

Hi dm, I'm a little late to the party, but thought I should comment. The one thing that seems to be a consistent concern with many of the Starcraft hulls is cracking of the "skin" at the ends of the transverse ribs. Over time, the constant flexing of the hull over waves seems to fatigue the aluminum at this point. I think because the ribs don't actually join to the hard chines at each end, the stress of hull flexing becomes concentrated there, so it's the first point to show cracking. Newer models have additional support at the ends of the ribs that bridges the hull bottom across the chine to the side of the hull. Many of the Starcraft restores have discovered and overcome this problem (including in mine, see below). I believe the original engine would have been a 2.5 litre. - Grandad

 

[roscoe]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Thanks for the info Mark. Its just about too dang hot to do anything up here in Iowa this weekend but might go float it this evening once i can get an extra set of hands. After that get the ownership all sorted out and start a resto/build thread.

I was digging around last night and this is an early alpha outdrive? So if the motor and drive has to many issues a fella could find a newer Distressed glasser with funtional drivetrain and transplant correct? I imagine a 3.0 at 130-140 hp is plenty for the weight of this tinny so need to go to a larger engine.

Original motor was a 2.5L 153 or 151 cu inch

Drive is an MC1, not an alpha


3.0l and alpha were not introduced till later

 

[dmoriarty51]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

thanks for the infor grandad and roscoe.

roscoe, do you know if the transom keyhole is the same for mc1 and alpha 1 by chance in case it makes more sense to go the donor route when i get that far?

i pulled the dipstick to see what was in the crankcase and there are remnants of oil, but also looks like water in there, also in poking around noticed a freeze plug almost pushed out of the block.

i did go float it today and see 1 or 2 rivets at the waterline chine near the transom where there is a small dent, and a little seepage at he transom skin to bottom skin seam mid way keel to chine on both sides. i hadn't seen watermans post about not doing that untill now.

i took some other pics and am resizing them to start a rebuild thread, so this one will be coming to a close shortly.

lastly, i looked closer at the paper work and realized i do have the title.... i was looking for a full sheet title on fancy paper like a car title, not a white paper same size as registration tickets, this makes things much easier for transfer of legal ownership to me. it hasnt been registered for about 8 years so i suspect getting it up to date will be a tad pricey

for a $200 boat and trailer i think i can deal with it tho...

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

Dang Mo you knocked it out of the park on your SC score, sweet deal there!

Sounds like your in the same boat I was with the old MC1 and 4 cyl. I have that obstacle behind me tho, for a price that is.

Sounds like you have nothing major in the way of hull repairs that some new rivets and the wonder goo gluvit can't handle.

On the title stuff, I would just go in and have the trailer and boat put in your name but hold off on the licensing and new plates until your a bit closer to being ready for the splash. It will only cost you for the licensing period when you get tabs and at least that way it will spread out the cost.

The MC and A1 use the same keyhole size.

Be sure to come back here and for your last post pop a link to your new thread.

 

[dmoriarty51]

Re: 1971 starcraft holiday I/O

to the resto forum we go http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...971-starcraft-holiday-i-o-rebuild-625720.html