1971 Evinrude starflite ignition

bret632

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Apr 12, 2013
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OK, have a 1971 evinrude 100 hp Starflite. traced all the wiring and cannot find out why when i turn the key i get no power to the starter. Replaced the solenoid with a known good one. I can jump the terminals from the solenoid and make it turn over. if the key is on motor will start. the Electric shift is grounded like it should be. so i am at a loss. please help me internet boating gods!
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1971 Evinrude starflite ignition

At the ignition switch, voltage (12v) should be present at the "B" (battery) terminal.

When the key is turned to the START position, voltage (12v) should be present at the "S" (solenoid) terminal of the ignition switch. (white wire).

That white wire should be connected to one of the smaller 3/8" nuts terminals of the starter solenoid, and voltage (12v) should show up there when the key is turned to the START position.

The other small 3/8" nut terminal should have a wire running from it to a powerhead ground... or possibly to a safety ground switch. If a safety ground switch, that switch must be grounded in order to have the solenoid engage.

Are all of the above as I've stated on your engine?
 

bret632

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Re: 1971 Evinrude starflite ignition

Yes thats 100% correct, I am getting 11.8 v at the solenoid through the switch so im still lost
 

bret632

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Re: 1971 Evinrude starflite ignition

when i jumped the solenoid today it was in forward. the nuetral switch was pushed. it wouldnt shift at all. this might be the limp home set up people have been posting about. checked the neutral safety switch and it looks like there is another blade connection it could need. what goes on it other than the white wire from the shift box?
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1971 Evinrude starflite ignition

The "start" safety switch is located at the vertical throttle arm on the starboard side of the engine. Only one wire leads to it as the switch is self grounding. To check the switch, simply ground that wire.

Test the solenoid by using a small jumper from the large battery terminal of the solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid that engages the solenoid... NOT to the 3/8" nut terminal that leads to the "start" safety switch.

The default shift position is forward, as follows.................

(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE 1 -The ohm reading of the individual shift solenoids should be between 5 to 6 ohms. The ohm meter should be set to low ohms. The shift wires leading to the solenoids must be disconnected when being tested.

NOTE 2 - The solenoid plunger measurement must be made with the solenoid placed within the lower unit. The measurement must be approximately 1/64" beneath the top surface of the solenoid... NOT above the solenoid surface nor any lower than 1/64" of the solenoid surface. This factory measurement is critical and will not ever change UNLESS someone has tinkered with it.

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the with a jumper wire.
 

bret632

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Re: 1971 Evinrude starflite ignition

way over thinking the problem with the shifting, it was a little plastic shield in the control box wouldnt let the buttons engage. did test the starter solenoid by jumping it and it works so im guessing that is done for and will be on the search for a new one.
 

bret632

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Re: 1971 Evinrude starflite ignition

Thank you Joe for all your help and knowledge you are a life saver
 
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