1970 starchief

[Slaviolette]

Got the new water shutter, the mechanic who sold it to me scared me a bit, he said he never saw a failed water shutter causing water in the engine and said its more likely a bad riser gasket.

Well the rise gasket was almost non existent, what was left was as thin as paper, my water shutter was missing a complete flap.. taking it out was tricky, it held on each side by a metal bracket that is held by 2 rivets, took one side off and I could not rivet both due to space so I just used 2 short stainless bolts, job done.

I took the plugs out and started the engine, getting water out of the cylinders, added a bit of oil and started her up.. well she never ran this good ! the issue of stalling and having to keep the idle lever up is fixed, after 2 minutes I can take it down and she idles at about 800 RPM

Tomorrow 2 oil changes and a water test..

The inside of my riser was filled up with rust flakes.. a lot.. I wonder if I should consider, to be safe, next year to replace the exhaust manifold and the riser.. just an idea.

 

[Watermann]

Glad you figured it out that a riser gasket was all it needed, who would have thought?

 

[SHSU]

Glad you figured it out that a riser gasket was all it needed, who would have thought?

LOL, we all have our moments.

(Admiral is sitting next to me rolling her eyes)

SHSU

 

[Slaviolette]

It was nice going back on the water ! Some concerns.. when going up to 3k RPM the gauge would show the engine overheating (clearly past the green), not sur how accurate the gauge is as it is original.. after 30 minutes at 3k rpm the rubber hoses were hot, don't think excessive, a little bit of smoke coming out of the flame arrestor, for a few seconds, nothing huge.

coming back to dock, just as I was arriving at the ramp she died on me, don't know why, had a bit of a hard time starting her back, had to raise the idle lever up 3/4 and she fired up and reved to 4k brought is back down and was ok, but felt like I did not have full power, could not test because I was in a marina section and didn't feel like taking a chance on open water.

This week I'll pull the plugs and crank to see if water spits out.. if not i'm satisfied at least I do not have a cracked block or a head gasket issue, the res I will deal with at spring, it's getting a little cold to work on it and sunset a 6pm doesn't give me much time anymore..

I think I am not evacuating enough water in the back.. looks like the rest of the water shutter is stuck somewhere or need an impeller change or something long those lines.

thanks all for the help and guidance !

 

[Watermann]

90% of overheating issues are the impeller and if chunks of the old one come loose they'll get stuck in the T stat. An increase in oil level and or milky oil water contamination is the sign of a cracked block or head gasket failure. If you have water in the cylinders again after replacing the riser gasket then it's time for some new parts if those are rusted out too much to seal up again.

If you have a IR temp gun that's what I use to check for my gauges accuracy. Shoot the t-stat housing. Not sure of the 4 cyl temp but mine is 143 degrees which would feel hot to the touch.

 

[Slaviolette]

90% of overheating issues are the impeller and if chunks of the old one come loose they'll get stuck in the T stat. An increase in oil level and or milky oil water contamination is the sign of a cracked block or head gasket failure. If you have water in the cylinders again after replacing the riser gasket then it's time for some new parts if those are rusted out too much to seal up again.

If you have a IR temp gun that's what I use to check for my gauges accuracy. Shoot the t-stat housing. Not sure of the 4 cyl temp but mine is 143 degrees which would feel hot to the touch.

I will tackle the rest of the work on this boat in the spring.. she's winterized and away to storage now.

One thing I do want to understand how it works.. the thermostat at the front, one side seems to go to the block and the other side to the exhaust manifold.. but there is a third tube, about 1in in diameter, that goes straight to the transom, what's this one ? overflow ?

the reason I asked is after I winterized the engine I pulled the tube off at the front, I decided to blow air in it and realized it exits straight at the back but there was definitely resistance, something is blocking the airway. I removed the tube from the boat and it is good with no obstructions, so it's in the back somehow..

I will be spending time this winter to learn more about the mechanics of this engine.. there is so much to learn.

 

[jbcurt00]

When you get to working on the motor, start a topic over in the motor forum..
Lots of great motor help, specific to your I/O, rather then helpful tin hat wearing fellas.

 

[Watermann]

That hose coming from the transom is what supplies raw water to cool the motor, the obstruction is the water pump in the lower unit.