1969 Evinrude 85HP - No spark

[1969LarsonRude]

Started having engine trouble this year. If I'm checking it right, there's no spark on any of the plugs. Not sure what to do next. So far no dice finding someone willing to look at an engine this old. I'm handy, but know almost nothing about engines. Is this something I should bother trying to sort out?

 

[racerone]

Remove flywheel.----Use puller with 3 bolts ( 5/16-fine thread ) and clean / set points to 0.010" / clean rotor and distributor cap.-----Inspect anti-reversing spring in there.---Rotor has a key on the bottom.-----Install flywheel.------Torque nut to 102 FT-LBS.-----Test for spark.------If no spark then you may have to spring for a big $$$ new amplifier and coil.

 

[1969LarsonRude]

Thanks! A couple follow ups...

Is a click type torque wrench accurate enough?

What should I use to clean the rotor and cap? Just a rag or a specific type of solvent?

Anything else I will need on hand to do what you've described?

 

[racerone]

The torque value is listed at 100 / 105 FT-LBS-----I post 102 FT-LBS just to see what comments are received.-----As you must know a torque wrench measures the resistance to turning of the fastener and stretching of the crankshaft..-----Condition of the threads / surfaces makes for the variables.

 

[1969LarsonRude]

For sure. I have seen the 100-105 ft/lb rating. I remember the previous owner saying the flywheel was finicky and that he had to take it to someone. I just wanted to make sure that a conventional/inexpensive torque wrench would do the trick and that I don't need to take it to someone with professional tools to be more accurate or something.

 

[F_R]

Your click type is fine, assuming it is anywhere near accurate. More important is flywheel and crankshaft tapers must be clean and dry.

 

[1969LarsonRude]

Cool. I'll do as told and report back.

 

[1969LarsonRude]

What is the trick to keep the flywheel from spinning to get the nut off?

 

[1969LarsonRude]

Ok. I'm in!

Overall I think things look fairly clean, though I have zero experience.

The only exception is the points and wires. They were covered with something that looked like graphite. I think I got it cleaned up pretty well.

The point on the right was probably at 0.006 or 0.007. The one on the left seems closed. I presume with everything disassembled they should both be normally open, correct? I further assume that I should set them both to 0.010". Please let me know if that is correct.

The anti reverse spring does not look healthy. I will look for one of those.

What else should I investigate at this point?

Plenty of photos of the adventure here (mainly so I can retrace my steps!)

1969 Evinrude 85hp

205 new items · Album by Scott Smith

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[F_R]

That is what happens when they were not serviced. That powder is the anti-reverse spring, worn to a frazzle. The spring and powder are silver--in other words conductive metal. You gotta get it all out of there.

New spring should be lubricated very sparingly with EP grease where it rides on the shaft.

 

[1969LarsonRude]

Cool. I'm wiping and blowing it out as well as possible.

If I'm understanding the points correctly, I want to set them so they are 0.010 at the high point in the cam, meaning that is the maximum that they open. Is that correct?

 

[F_R]

That is correct. Actually, back in the day, we set them to open a certain number of clicks for more accuracy. But I forget the number of clicks, so 0.010" it is.

 

[oldboat1]

on removing the flywheel nut -- I started using the air gun for that (not for torquing it back on, of course.)

 

[1969LarsonRude]

Yeah... My trouble was keeping the flywheel from spinning so I could turn the nut against it.