1969 85hp starflite, low power and cutting in and out

68glasspar

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I see the wiring diagram shows a temp light on this engine application! I will test that
 

racerone

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There was no issue with that choke system not working as designed !----It is a fact that people / owners did not understand how it worked.----Lot of smoke at startup.----And most people think that there must be something wrong if they see a lot of smoke.-----Even when new you had to use the manual choke to start a cold engine !----The idea was that choke stayed partially on until the thermo switch allowed choke to go full off.----My mistake the 69 models have an overheat warning light.----But a wise owner would install a horn somewhere.-----Got mixed up with an other thread ( 77 85 HP ) on the horn.-----And I was working on these motors BEFORE your 69 motor left the factory.---Warning horns were first installed in 72 model year if my memory is correct.
 

68glasspar

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Do you know a good source for parts look-up? I can't seem to find good number for a water pump kit for a 1969 85hp starflite
 

racerone

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The original pump housing was cast aluminum.---I do not believe they market kits for these.---Your local dealer can find the parts for you.
 

68glasspar

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I did the link and sync on the Evinrude today! I'm not sure if im correct in my understanding of the procedure. I aligned the marks on the cap and dist plate when the roller was centered top mark. Then proceeded to to adjust the throttle cam yoke to align the lower mark with the roller. That adjustment was quite a bit from were it was. Now that throttle cam yoke looks like the pictures in the manual. But doesn't making the second adjustment of the yoke end up changing the first setting?
 

jimmbo

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I retired 1yr ago after working 35yrs as an auto mechanic and currently still an aircraft mechanic!
Far too many times we hear "I have worked on Auto Engines, or Aviation Engines". That kind of means Nothing when it comes Older Outboard Engines. An frequent Example, is how many "Experienced Mechanics" insist on trying to set Idle Timing... or adjusting Carb Linkages to adjust the Throttle Valves to set Idle Speed...
As for the Auto Chokes on OMC Outboards, again a lot were very different from what was found on Cars/Trucks.

72 was the first yr for the Horn. Better than a Tiny Light on the Control box
 
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68glasspar

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Found this today! Head gaskets and water pump also ordered today!headgasket.jpg
 
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racerone

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Heads are likely warped.----Need to be refinished.----A flat surface ( piece of glass ) and valve grinding compound does the trick.
 

racerone

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No, it does not take very much to do a nice job at home.-----Or if you doubt that run to your local machine ( $$$ ) shop.----Or use a piece of emery cloth.
 

68glasspar

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Im trying to get a water pump kit ordered, after going from one discontinued number to another, the last number appears to 0384465. Problem is there are several on ebay, but some of them have different looking impeller housing configurations. I might need to just take it apart first to see what it looks like
 

68glasspar

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Heads are likely warped.----Need to be refinished.----A flat surface ( piece of glass ) and valve grinding compound does the trick.
I got my heads flat and have new head gaskets that say to use no sealer!
Would you use sealer anyways? and what type?
 

jimmbo

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If the Gaskets, have "NO SEALER" printed/stamped on them, I will assume the Manufacturers know what they are Doing. But it is your Motor, and Money...
 

68glasspar

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I asked because i had seen other postings on a different website saying that the old timers used it anyways.
 

racerone

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I have looked a You-tube videos where the presenter just used lots of sealer.-----Little did he know that he was plugging up an oil recirculation channel.----If it says ---NO SEALER----Then they mean it !
 

68glasspar

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i wont use sealer. but if look at the pictures of my heads you'll see 2 diff type of head gaskets used. the right one had some gasket sealer and the left didn't. the left leaked the most and is the type of gaskets i purchased. more then likely the head was not checked for flatness when that prior gasket was replaced
 

68glasspar

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I got the cylinder heads resurfaced and new head gaskets installed, and new water pump impeller. Toke the boat out to today and pretty much the same issue. It ran at reduced power and after about a min started to cut in and out and then all the way out and wouldn't restart. I found an old surface fire spark plug onboard and checked for spark at one cylinder, It jumped a good gap and was very visible in bright sunlight. A couple of question are can the amplifier do something like that? i thought when they were bad you didn't have any spark. This engine has points and the amplifier, how important is it that the charging system in this system other then keeping the battery charged? Does the amplifier use an inputs from the charging system? I have not yet checked running voltage.
 

jimmbo

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Okay you verified Spark on One Cylinder, there are 3 others, of which, some components are shared, and others are specific to each Cylinder.
That Engine is far older than any of the Engineers ever planned/expected it to last.
Heat can play Havoc with Electronics, especially 55 yr old Electronics. When Cold, it may appear to work Fine, and as it heats up, no longer Fine.
Yes the engine does have Points, but they carry very little Current compared to a Regular Battery or Magneto Ignition. They do need to be kept Clean and free from Sticking.
 

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Nordin

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Not uncommon CD boxes, switchboxes and amplifiers fail after they are heated up.
I have had these kind of issues at different brand such as OMC engines, Mercurys, Chrysler/Force and the japanees brands.
 
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