1968 Evinrude 9.5 HP Carb Issues

[Harritwo]

The Boy Child has come into ownership of his first boat. He has a 14 foot Alum boat, originally sold by Sears. With the boat, he got a trailer and a 9.5 HP Evinrude. The carb was full of crud. I took the carb apart, soaked it overnight in Carb Cleaner, washed it out with water, blew all the ports dry and re-assembled using a new carb kit. The engine will run only off of a squirt can. It has fuel in the carb but will not run on its own.

The breakdown I have shows this carb has a high speed jet that to the best of my knowledge wasnt there when i took the carb apart. I laid everything out on a towel and there are no leftover parts.

Question 1) Does this carb have a high speed jet located in the bowl?
Question 2) If it is supposed to, where can i get one?
Question 3) What have I missed as to why this engine wont run except on a squirt can?

George

 

[77kingfisher]

What is your specific model number? There is a main jet and an emulsion tube (atomizer for the fuel) if either has a blockage in their port(s) it wont run or only low or high. Having the specific model number I can give you some more info.

 

[Harritwo]

77king The numbers I have are 9822. I show it to have a Type III downdraft carb.

 

[175se]

Bottom of bowl,7/16 slotted screw,remove that the main jet is in there.

 

[77kingfisher]

Ok your going to remove #77 (#76 could/should stay on the bolt) and then unscrew #75 using a straight blade screwdriver. Look down the center of the jet (#75) and soak and blow it clean. If it is extremely clogged a sewing needle (small) can be used gently to unclog the jet. Reassemble and test you should be rocking.

Go to marine engine .com and type your model number into the parts lookup for evenrude go to your carb group

 

[oldboat1]

I would be vewy vewy careful with the little $60 brass jet, if it's in there. For starting and idling, the low speed mix has to be set. The initial setting is typically about one turn out, maybe 1 1/2. When idling in gear in the lake or a barrel, slowly adjust the needle clockwise 1/8 turn at a time, letting the engine catch up. When it coughs or stalls, back it out about 1/4 turn. Make sure it goes into gear without stalling or stumbling (may need to tweak the adjustment slightly richer.)

 

[Harritwo]

When i look into the port, I am not seeing anything in there. I am thinking this jet is missing. Without the jet, will that keep the engine from running on its own? It wont even offer to start unless you prime the carb with a squirt can.

 

[77kingfisher]

The jet should be in there bit its possible its totally covered in filth and buried. If you cant see light its plugged. If the threads don't go all the way to the center of the bowl the jet is in there but covered. If you can see light and threads then you have another problem start checking spark and compression and post results back here. Post a pictures if you can.

 

[Harritwo]

77King, The jet is in there, it was totally blocked and stopped up. I have the carb soaking in chem-dip again as I was unable to clear the port all the way. I have it opened up about 3/4 of the way but it was totally plugged to the point i could not see the jet. I will let you know of the progress i make getting it unstopped. The jet wont turn at this time, I suspect it is full of varnish and hoping the Chem-dip helps.

 

[77kingfisher]

Harritwo glad to hear it unfortunately I have seen this more than just a few times. Im also concerned the soak may not be enough. You might have to use an ultrasonic machine with chem-dip in it. These machines can be found fairly cheep and sometimes they are jewelry cleaners... they go by several names. But they work stellar.

 

[oldboat1]

Follow up with carb spray. I recommend against trying to remove the jet, as they are easily damaged even in good conditions -- would try to clean it in place (JMO).

 

[77kingfisher]

Follow up with carb spray. I recommend against trying to remove the jet, as they are easily damaged even in good conditions -- would try to clean it in place (JMO).

This is true no question. This is why im recommending the ultrasonic cleaner and the rounded eyelet of a needle.

 

[Lawnmower-Don]

We use torch tip cleaners for getting jets clear and clean. In addition to the ultrasonic. Torch tip cleaners are sold at most napa stores bout $10and worth it if you do a lot of small engine carbs.

 

[Harritwo]

I managed to get it unstopped finally, Soaked in Chem Dip overnight again, Tip Cleaners werent long enough to get all the way. What i used was Air (150 psi) and .045 Hard Wire from my welder. With the help of the chem dip, vice grips for the wire, and tedious repetion i got the port clear. It was stopped up solid from the bowl drain to the very end. You could not even see the jet when i started, and yes, i left it in. Figured it was seized due to the varnish.

Thanks for the insight.

 

[Lawnmower-Don]

Harritwo glad to hear it unfortunately I have seen this more than just a few times. Im also concerned the soak may not be enough. You might have to use an ultrasonic machine with chem-dip in it. These machines can be found fairly cheep and sometimes they are jewelry cleaners... they go by several names. But they work stellar.

You can pick up a cheap ultrasonic cleaner at harbor freight. I wouldn't put chem dip in it though. Dilute Simple green 50/50with distilled water or get cleaner made for the machine. I've seen carbs ruined with chem dip if left in too long. We use a stronger type in the shop. Will actually eat the carb. Maybe different with the consumer brands though. Just make sure every passage is clean also high and low speed jet.

 

[77kingfisher]

Harritwo glad to here it and yes make sure every orifice is clean and clear of gum and varnish. You might also want to add the proper amount of seafoam to your mix fuel and then to prime the fuel system and run the seafoam mix fuel then let it sit for some time. Then run the hell out of it on the water till that tank is gone.

 

[Harritwo]

No Title

Pics of the issue

 

[77kingfisher]

Looks like your definitely getting there. You could try it now or soak it another night and re clean it tomorrow.

 

[oldboat1]

The brass orifice is .049. So only a clearance of .004 for your wire probe if my math is right, controlled by hand and a vise grip....

I use carb spray (plastic nozzle to concentrate spray) -- like to partially disassemble and soak metal parts in lacquer thinner, but recognize there is mixed opinion on what to use. Think some disassembly and soaking is the main point. After reassembly and mounting, there is no need to run anything else through it beyond fresh gas and 2-cycle. If a metal tank, particularly a permanent one, it's a good time to make sure the tank is clear of any water and debris, or you can immediately contaminate the freshly cleaned carb.

Good boating!

 

[Harritwo]

I fired her off a minute ago, The idle air mixture screw out 1-1/2 turns for start, runs good. Takes throttle and pumps water. Idles was a little high, turned it down to where it is still smooth. Will go the the lake this weekend and set idle in water in gear. Right now just running on muffs. Thanks for the ideas and insight.