1968 33hp johnson

WYCARLA

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May 22, 2012
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15
im going to apoligize up front for the long post. here is where i am. i bought this motor off craigslist for $400. good deal i think. ran good in a bucket and has good compression. idles good and fires right up. so i took it to the river and discovered on cylinder isnt getting fire..... bummer..... so after bringing it back to the shop i was checking for fire and there is good fire in the bottom cylinder and no fire in the top cylinder BUT as im checking fire in the top cylinder im getting a very strong shock in the ignition key ( some one has changed it over to a key ignition) now im thinking there is a wire pinched?
im on my fifth day of trying to get the flywheel off, but that sob is on there im busting grade 8 bolts right and left. today i retapped the 1/4 holes to 5/16 to get more leverage, i will get it off at some point! anyone have any ideas why the top cylinder is shocking back at the key? am in in the right thinking that there must be a short? once i do get it off im going to replace everything but it is odd that im getting shocked when i ground the plug to check for spark.
 

sutor623

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May 23, 2011
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4,089
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

You are on the right track by pulling the flywheel. There is no way that you are busting grade 8 bolts like that. Are you sure they arent grade 5? They are copper in color? When I cant get the bastard off I just put an impact gun on a VERY low setting and run the flywheel puller shaft into the crank. I have had some beasts. Take a rubber mallot and tap the outer edges of the flywheel after each time you hit it with the impact gun. (And make sure you have the flywheel nut off, dur!)
 

Daviet

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Sep 24, 2008
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8,958
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

Disconnect the two black wires that go to the points to kill the engine, if you loose the shock, your problem is under the flywheel.
Those flywheels can be a pain at times to get off, I just keep tension on the puller and tap it every once and awhile.
 

WYCARLA

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May 22, 2012
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Re: 1968 33hp johnson

all the bolts that im busting are copper color grade 8 bolts. im beginning to wonder if the flywheel has ever been off!!!!
im going to take it slow so i dont bust the bigger bolts off. the flywheel nut is loosend up about an inch so if it ever does come loose it wont hit the lights. pb blaster sprayed in the crank bolt but its not getting down because the level hasnt gone down. ive even tried to lightly heat with a small propane torch and tap the edges with a rubber mallet and beat the **** out of the main puller bolt. NOTHING IS GIVVING.
 

kfa4303

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Sep 17, 2010
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6,094
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

Hang in there WYCARLA. They can be pesky. Go slow and be patient. It will come off.....eventually. It some times takes days. Here are some handy links to help you tune her when the time comes. You can get any routine parts you may need right here at iboats.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/24/index.cfm

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=33&model=RXE-16M
 

WYCARLA

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May 22, 2012
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15
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

i forgot to mention that an impact isnt budging this at all. currently im putting a pipe wrench on the puller and using a
18" breaker bar on the bolt and its all i can do to move it an 1/8 inch at a time.
 

WYCARLA

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May 22, 2012
Messages
15
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

Update: after 6 days the flywheel has finally came off! i finally got tired of messing with it and hit the stud on the puller with everything i had and it popped off. im going to replace all the ignition, is it as simple as doing one side setting the point gap and doing the other side? my manual doesnt really cover this. i know the gap is .020. just wondering if there is something else i need to make sure of before i put the flywheel back on to check for spark.
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
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3,886
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

Yes, do 1/2 at a time so you have a reference as you work. Make sure the coil mounts line up with the bosses on the magneto plate. Set the points when they are open to their fullest - when the cam rider of the point is at the "top" position on the cam. Clean everything thoroughly. Make sure to tuck the coil wires so they don't rub on the turning cam/crank.
 

WYCARLA

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May 22, 2012
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Re: 1968 33hp johnson

So do i need to put the flywheel back on to check for spark? i was thinking i could just put the flywheel nut back on and check the spark with the impact.
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
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Re: 1968 33hp johnson

Flywheel must be on - the magnets passing by the coils is what charges them and creates the spark. You don't have to put it on tightly - just replace the nut and spin it (not too fast) as you're planning or just use a socket wrench to spin it.
 

BoatBuoy

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May 29, 2004
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4,856
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

And clean off that PB Blaster with a suitable solvent before re-installing the flywheel. Both mating surfaces need to be dry.
 

1961glastron

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May 8, 2010
Messages
24
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

check ur coils,pull them off and see if there is any cracks and black marks on the cause they are shorting if so,,the old yellow coted coils are notorius for this
 

WYCARLA

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May 22, 2012
Messages
15
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

UPDATE.... i got the manual out and started checking the wiring and the safety switch was wired up wrong. i then replaced any wires that didnt look perfect. then since all the ignition appears to be new i started swapping the coils condensers, and points. i finally got fire on both cylinders after swapping the points???????? must have been something in the points, i dont know but im getting blue fire that will jump about a half inch. now here is the problem. during the week long saga of trying to get the flywheel off i broke the locking lever rod. its the rod that goes from the carb to the recoil starter housing. i have ordered a new one but where does the spring attach to?
there is a hole in the rod about half way up that one end of the spring attaches to but where does the other end attach?
 

kfa4303

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Sep 17, 2010
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Re: 1968 33hp johnson

I would check ebay, or place a WTB ad on aomci.org and/or here in the forums too.
 

WYCARLA

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May 22, 2012
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Re: 1968 33hp johnson

carb.jpgcarb.jpg

halfway up the rod #24 there is a hole where one end of the spring goes. the other end of the spring either goes back to the carb or up to the pull rope housing. i have the parts on order but i dont know where the spring goes.
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
Messages
3,886
Re: 1968 33hp johnson

The spring goes over the pin #2 which connects the lockout lever, #29. The other end of the spring goes in the hole in the anchor, #25, which slides on the rod, #24.
 
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