1967 evinrude 33hp - safety switch question

[rgnjc]

When I acquired this engine a few months ago, the previous owner said he disconnected the safety switch. I'm not sure why, but he removed it and just grounded the wire that should go to the switch (see attached pic). I think the black ground wire on the bolt with the white wire is where it should connect to. I have the old switch, but the button seems to be sticky and when pushed in, doesn't want to come out easily (I guess this is why it was taken off).

What does the safety switch do exactly? I understand its very important, which is why I'd like to hook it back up. Also, where the heck do I attach this thing and how? Will I have to find a new switch, or is there a way to get this button moving more freely so it doesn't stick?

Thanks!

 

[racerone]

It prevents the starter motor from operating when throttle is open too far.

 

[F_R]

Right below the safety switch, you can see the vacuum cut-out switch. Note that the vacuum switch body is mounted on plastic, therefor it is not grounded. The safety switch serves two purposes
1. It prevents running the electric starter at high throttle settings
2. It grounds the vacuum switch body at slow throttle settings only, thus disabling it at higher throttle.

So next you are going to ask what the vacuum switch is for. If for some reason the motor revs up in neutral (or lose a prop or bust a drive pin) it may run wild and you can't slow it down. The vacuum switch senses that run-away condition and kills one cylinder till it slows down. The reason for disabling it at higher throttle is because under certain conditions it might cause a hard to find ignition misfire (if not disabled). Understand, if it is running wild, instinct will tell you to back off on the throttle-----which enables the vacuum switch till it slows down. Simple, huh?

In the picture, somebody has grounded your vacuum switch, enabling it all the time. So, now that I've told you, you know where to look for that miss at certain speeds (usually just under full throttle).

 

[Robert Ellis]

Nice going on posting the pics - that never seems to work for me. I'm mucking about with a bunch of 33's and 40's from that general era. I'd say about 60% of them have that switch bypassed in the same way your pic shows. They also always seem to have a badly corroded wire for some reason (even on the ones that work). I've never had any luck 'repairing' the switches at all but if you find a way, I'd be happy to here about it.

 

[racerone]

I believe those switches can be taken apart for cleaning.---Have done them in the past.---Not much call for repairs on those motors today.

 

[rgnjc]

OK Thanks for the information. I'm still not clear though where to re-attach it to. I will try to clean it up and get the button moving freely but I still don't quite know the location on the motor where it attaches to. Does it matter?

 

[jasper60103]

OK Thanks for the information. I'm still not clear though where to re-attach it to. I will try to clean it up and get the button moving freely but I still don't quite know the location on the motor where it attaches to. Does it matter?

I copied this from a '64 28 hp Evinrude service manual. I think it applies to your motor as well. Good luck.

 

[Robert Ellis]

In case the photo is not clear, the bracket of the switch goes on the bolt that your black wire is attached to. That black wire is held under the bracket (see that groove in your photo) and continues on to the spade terminal of the switch. Looks to me like that new black wire might be a bit too short.
There's not much point in putting it on though unless you can free up the stickiness issue AND ensure the switch opens and closes the ground. As I mentioned earlier, this circuit is a weak point in the whole general scheme of things - more often than not, the switch doesn't open and close the circuit.

 

[racerone]

The contact in the switch gets dirty.------It is easily cleaned.

 

[rgnjc]

Awesome! Thanks for the pics and all the other information. I found where to bolt it on, which was like Robert said, the bolt with the black wire ground.

I took my switch apart, it was pretty crusty inside and corroded, I cleaned it as best as possible but broke the plastic putting it back together. It was brittle, and the button still didnt move freely. Bought one online for like $10, between the two of em I think i should be able to get one cleaned up and working. Will report back here when I do that.