1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

[loupis]

Hey guys,<br /><br />I've inherited the above 33hp engine and I thought I was done this weekend. I pulled the Magneto and replaced the coils, condensers and points (I didn't replace the wires tho). I then replaced the fuel lines and fuel pump and throttle + shift cables and gave her a new impeller. I haven't rebuilt the carb.<br /><br />The spark jumped a 1/4" easily, but did appear thin.<br /><br />With a little squirt of mixed love juice she fired right up so I took her to the lake for a little test run and some pike fishin. <br /><br />She ran like a 2hp trolling motor! This boat is small and should of planed right out, but high rpms couldn't be reached. Since I was fishing I ran her all day to get some test beta. Every other time I started her she did need a squirt to start.<br />Afterwords, both plugs seemed a little fouled (oily). Like they weren't quite burning hot enough.<br /><br />The question here is - Did I miss something in ignition (wires?) or should I be disassembling the carburator to look for my power parasite?<br /><br />thx.<br />loupis

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

For some reason, I can rarely get as nice a spark off the big twins as I can off the little Johnny/Rudes. I think likely your ignition system is fine. But have a close look at the wires and make sure there arn't any cracks in the insulation, etc. If you have a multimeter, set it for ohms and measure the resistance between the spring in the spark plug boots and the engine block. It should be around 3-6k ohms or so. If it's infinity, either there's a break somewhere in the wires, or you didn't get them seated in the coils properly. Tugging at the igniton wires while the engine is running may show something too.<br /><br />If that checks out and all the throttle linkages are moving smoothly and the magneto plate is turning until it hits it's stop, then go after the carburetor. Do you have the carb with an adjustable high speed mix? It's constant needing of supplimentry fueling strongly indicates it's at least partially clogged up.<br /><br />One last thought - did you happen to try pumping the primer bulb when it was acting up? Did it help/harm/do nothing?

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

It does have adjustable high and low speed knobs. and I did try pumping the primer bulb and it was tight - it didn't really do anything good or bad.<br /><br />The linkages are moving smoothly, though the throttle only uses half of the throttle adjuster. (big adjuster - small throttle arm on motor.)<br /><br />I didn't wiggle the spark wires while it was running - i was afraid to lose a finger or fall out of the boat. I will change those wires out today - it's pretty simple and would knock that out of the occasion. I'm pretty sure the coils are aligned right as they are very flush with the boss's.<br /><br />loupis

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

What did adjusting the high speed control do? Anything?<br /><br />I appreciate you wanting to keep your fingers. It's also a good way to get an invigorating zap!<br /><br />I've got a '65 33hp half-way to rebuild now. If it's anything like my 28hp it'll be 2010 before it's done.

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

not a whole lot. It's got a cool linkage on it that keeps you from really turning it more that half a turn. (some engineer somewhere had a stupid idea and implemented it) I didn't have my tool kit to disassemble it on the spot so not a whole lot of beta there. (the low idle has the same stupid linkage - with no purpose except to keep you from turning the mixture a whole turn)<br /><br />I want this thing running - the northern pike are hitting and it's a long ways from the boat ramp - i'm hoping for July 4th weekend on this sucker

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

Oh, that linkage is really handy when the cover's on. You can adjust it through the door then. The pre '63 carbs had a nice cast aluminum faceplate rather than that ugly plastic one though. <br /><br />To adjust the carb properly, take out the screws in the front of both controls (I mean the lever thingy on the bottom one and the knob on the low speed mix) and pull the knobs/levers off. Then you can really adjust them. The bottom one should be turned in until lightly seated, then back out 3/4 of a turn. The top one in, then out 1 and 1/2 turn. Start, warm, set, etc (if you don't know the drill, just ask). Then put the knobs back on centred so you can have some adjustment. Do all this before condemning anything.<br /><br />Since you said the high speed control doesn't seem to do much, we know either the carb is clogged or the control is way out of wack. If it's working right you can pretty well stall out the engine by turning it either way.<br /><br />You've got the flywheel nut to 105 ft/lbs right? It's critical because if the engine sneezes the flywheel key will shear and you'll loose spark.

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

i've got the ugly plastic one - and held together with gorilla glue at that. (good stuff that gorilla glue)<br /><br />I don't have a torque wrench, but the flywheel is on good and tight - or so it seems so - it's sneezed quite a few times and it still works I've learned all about over tightening things in the past, so i'm pretty cautious.<br /><br />I didn't do any of the timing/sync adjustments. I'm not real sure how to do that yet. I seem to learn something every day - it's like a drug only you can fish on it!<br /><br />i'm gonna pick up a rebuild kit for the carb today and take that sucker apart tonight and give her some love.<br /><br />loupis

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

Get it torqued properly sometime - it's really really important. I don't think there's any other engine it's more important on. And you would be suprised how hard it is to put 105 ft/lbs on it. It will take all your muscle. <br />(Hint: jam the starter with a chunk of plastic or aluminum, as large a piece as will jam it).<br /><br />I recently explained the link&sync here. Ah, here it is:<br /> Click here.<br /> <br />I've been meaning to make up one of those signatures, something like <br />WARNING: Old Johnny/Rudes are highly addictive.<br />But I think I should wait for a day where I've got better wit.

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

will do thx - i'll report back after some adjustments.<br /><br />loupis

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

Another question, what fuel ratio should I use for this engine

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

50:1 87 octane gas to TC-W3 rated outboard oil. If it hasn't been run in a looong time, I run a tank of 24:1 through first.

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

ok, i haven't fired it up yet (it was too late in the evening after the work), but my latest adventure in mechanics brought on a few more questions. <br /><br />I pulled the starter, and yanked the carb off. I rebuilt it with the kit, but really didn't find anything wrong except for a couple of old bowl gaskets. It was really clean. I replaced the parts anyway<br /><br />I pulled the flywheel and changed out the wires in the coils and checked out the linkage and noticed that when you advanced the throttle, the little gismo that advanced the timing would get stuck on the powerhead and wouldn't advance past half throttle. I think this was my real problem - everything work'd well, but I couldn't fully access WOT. (It's a theory and I won't really know until it quits raining.)<br /><br />The armiture plate has a 3-5mm wiggle. Is this a problem? I've read it is, but it seems to work ok.<br /><br />Also, I found a broken hose or vacume hose - it was supposed to be connected near the fuel solenoid (above it slightly and under the armiure plate) to a connector on the PH near the carb. It was really old, and broken. I'm sure it hasn't been connected in quite a while. I replaced it with good tubing. What does this hose do?<br /><br />I'll know if i put it all back together tonight. (If the damn rain quits falling!)<br /><br />loupis

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

When you rebuilt the carb, did you pull the metal core plug in the top of it so you could clean behind the idle orifaces? Always a good idea. <br /><br />The wobbly armature plate causes an annoying clacking. If it's really bad, the flywheel magnets will hit the ignition coils and throw the armature plate around. It'll also throw off timing since the points are riding on it.<br /><br />Fix it if you want to is my advice. That's a little wobbly but not that bad. The big deal on fixing it is you have to first pull the flywheel. But then it's just 4 phillips screws and that darn spring, dent up the bearing and put it back together:<br />Click here for Joe Reeves' wobbly armature plate fix instructions.<br /><br />I think the tube you're talking about is the oil recirculation hose. It sends oil from the bottom of the crankcase up to the top main bearing to be used again. You'll need fuel-rated hose to replace it. With it broken, the main effect would be probably just slightly bad idle / slightly lean bottom cylinder. The top is controlled by an oriface.<br /><br />Which part was catching the powerhead? The throttle lever arm (long one that runs up the side of the engine), the spring, or the slotted brass doey?

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

Paul,<br /><br />I didn't replace the metal core plug. I jetted the orifaces with a 1/4 can of carb cleaner. I've had a bad time with those orifices before so i skipped that step. I think i'll be alright there. <br /><br />As for the armitoure plate, too bad i didn't know how to fix it last night - i had the whole deal apart last night. So you remove the flywheel, then the plate, then dink with the spring and bearing to stabilize it? Is this superimportant to correct immediately? It's only a slight wobble and it's not loose - pretty tight. It doesn't sound all that bad to correct tho.<br /><br />I did replace it with fuel hose. Whew! I did something right.<br /><br />I'm not sure what it's called - its the piece that is screwed to the mag plate that the slotted brass doey connects to, and when the throttle is advanced it moves with the armiture plate advancing the timing. There is a rubber dohicky on the end that stops the advancement from going too far - It was bent down somehow and wouldn't let the timing or throttle advance past halfway. How calibrated is this thing? I bent it back slightly so it would move without jamming on the powerhead.<br /><br />Thanks for all the good beta by the way. It sure is nice to dive into a proj and know there is help available out there. <br /><br />loupis

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

Ahh, yeah, I forgot they changed those around. Back a couple years before it was this big cast aluminium foot rather than what you've got. No way you could bend it without smashing up the outboard. Timing isn't super-critical on these old Big Twins, although I like to get mine as close as possible.<br /><br />The armature plate thing isn't very important until it gets real bad. You would have noticed if it was cause the faces of the ignition coils would be all smeared from hitting the magnet. If the noise doesn't bother you, don't worry about it.

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

Hey guys<br /><br />well i'm back. I got her together and had quite a few good trips fishin on the lake. She had almost enough power to plane the boat out and then....<br /><br />I took her out and she wouldn't start without some severe love and patience and once started she had no power. It seemed like a air/fuel thing, but she wouldn't adjust. <br /><br />I took a look at the plugs (J3C'S) and the lower plug was bent flat. No gap left what so ever. <br />(the upper plug looks fine) <br /><br />This doesn't seem like a good thing. Anyone else had this problem? <br /><br />as for the carb issue - no biggie. I'm taking it of for a bath and scrub this evening. (too bad they designed it with the damn starter in the way - it's a pain takin it off as well...oh well)<br /><br />loupis

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

oops - the plug is j6c not j3c

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

oops - the plug is j6c not j3c

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

Uh oh, that doesn't sound good at all. Pull the head to investigate.<br />Was there any bits of aluminium on the spark plug?<br /><br />(I hate that bolt by the carburetor that holds the starter bracket on!)

 

[loupis]

Re: 1967 33hp evinrude model 33752c - sloooowwwww!

Hey paul, <br /><br />thx for the reply. The plug had no evidence of aluminum on it - just a smashed ground electrode and it was fouled. (i assumed the fouling was from fuel in the cylinder and no way to spark)<br /><br />I read into some other posts that talked about carbon buildup so I also checked out the cylinder (from the spark hole with a minimag) - it is clean and doesn't show any damage. I recently seafoamed the engine. <br /><br />My gut is that the reach on the j6c is just a bit too long and the engine has a little bit of play in it. Would adding a few plug washers maybe fix the problem? Is the reach different between the j4c and j6c? Is there a better high performance plug with a short reach? I don't want to pull the head unless I really have to - lay it to me straight maiestro!<br /><br />thx<br />loupis