1966 Sea King 6hp idles ~ 10 seconds, accelerates then quits

[Engleman]

heres what I’ve done:
New plugs
new plug wires
clean and gap points (there is spark on both plugs)
disassemble/clean/reassemble carb
new fuel hoses
disassemble/ clean/ reassemble fuel pump
new fuel pump kit (except reeds, which appeared to be serviceable)

many thanks!

 

[jerryjerry05]

Sounds like the float needs adjusting?
Your motor has a separate tank? tank vent
open?
When you pump the ball, does it get firm?
or fuel comes out the overflow?
Test the needle/seat for fuel/air flow.

Hook a spark tester to the plug, start motor and
watch it as it dies, does it loose spark or get
intermittent? Your looking for a steady spark.

 

[racerone]

Sounds like it is running out of fuel.

 

[Engleman]

Thanks for the replies.
Fuel tank vent is open.
Yes, the ball gets firm.

How can I check the needle seat; and where would I purchase a spark tester?

 

[Engleman]

also...I adjusted the bowl float per a recommendation I saw in a YouTube video by “chrysleroutboarddude”. It sits roughly level when resting with the needle seated.

 

[Redbarron%%]

If you keep pumping the ball after starting the engine does it do the same thing?
It does sound like the engine is running out of fuel as it would be a little rich and the RPM would tend to increase a little as it leaned, just before it quit.
We check for the mixture on piston aircraft engine by pulling the mixture control looking for the slight rise before it quits.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The Chrysler/Force has 2 different needle/seat,
one needle/seat has rubber on the tip of the
needle and the seat is smooth metal, the
other has a rubber seal in the seat and a solid
needle, inspect both.
The cleaners and soaks we use can make the
rubber swell and not allow the fuel to pass,
this affects the rubber in the seat not the rubber
tipped needle.
Test for flow through the needle/seat.
Remove the carb, drain the fuel from the
carb, keep the fuel line hooked to the carb.
Then hold the carb upside down and pump
the ball slowly.
The position of the carbs float shouldn't allow
fuel into the bowl. Then turn it right side up
and pump the ball, it should let the carb work
and fill the bowl.
Visually inspect the seat for damage to the
rubber seal and inspect the tip for damage.

 

[Engleman]

Thank you. I’ll try that when I get home.

 

[Engleman]

The Chrysler/Force has 2 different needle/seat,
one needle/seat has rubber on the tip of the
needle and the seat is smooth metal, the
other has a rubber seal in the seat and a solid
needle, inspect both.
The cleaners and soaks we use can make the
rubber swell and not allow the fuel to pass,
this affects the rubber in the seat not the rubber
tipped needle.
Test for flow through the needle/seat.
Remove the carb, drain the fuel from the
carb, keep the fuel line hooked to the carb.
Then hold the carb upside down and pump
the ball slowly.
The position of the carbs float shouldn't allow
fuel into the bowl. Then turn it right side up
and pump the ball, it should let the carb work
and fill the bowl.
Visually inspect the seat for damage to the
rubber seal and inspect the tip for damage.

Well I got home and tested the carb. The needle seats when the carb is turned upside down and allows flow otherwise. I did notice that the priming bulb won’t get firm when I squeeze it, though.
The only parts of the fuel pump I did not replace were the reeds. This is because they appeared to be in good shape. Maybe I missed something...

 

[jerryjerry05]

Usually if the ball doesn't get hard, the diaphragm
is usually bad, or the check valves might be bad?
Since i started working on these 1986 I have seen
only one bad check valve, and it actually worked.
When I was working on the pump the valve fell
apart and came out in pieces, yet it was working.
Also if the squeeze balls check valve is bad it won't
pump up. Even new squeezie's can be bad, I went
through 3 new Tempo balls before I found a good
one. One more: the connector on the cover for the
fuel line, there's a rubber seal and it can be bad and
cause triuble.

 

[Engleman]

Usually if the ball doesn't get hard, the diaphragm
is usually bad, or the check valves might be bad?
Since i started working on these 1986 I have seen
only one bad check valve, and it actually worked.
When I was working on the pump the valve fell
apart and came out in pieces, yet it was working.
Also if the squeeze balls check valve is bad it won't
pump up. Even new squeezie's can be bad, I went
through 3 new Tempo balls before I found a good
one. One more: the connector on the cover for the
fuel line, there's a rubber seal and it can be bad and
cause triuble.

 

[Engleman]

Thanks for your time. It was the fuel line connector. Original part, I assume. Leaking like a sieve. I replaced the squeeze ball, too- just because it was old and starting to crack. Now I need to find a lower unit seal kit. Any ideas on who carries them for these old motors?

 

[Nordin]

Try Franz Marine, he will have it if it is available.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Recently, my work tank (the one I use on all the motors that I repair)
failed me.
I was working on a Johnson 25hp. (my motor)
The squeeze ball wouldn't get hard, so I replaced the diaphragm, still wouldn't get firm, so I went through all the steps for repair.
Found the squeeze ball was bad
I don't know why it went bad, it was only 10-15 years old.