1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

[rboarderi]

I am trying to get spark on my 1966 Johnson FD20-C. This is my first time working on an outboard engine, most of my previous engine works as been with mopeds, scooters and small engines. I guess first I would like to know what I am missing over the stop button location and if this would cause me to not get spark. Anyone have any tips on what few things to check before checking for spark? Thanks in advance, you guys have a very informative forum here!

 

[Daviet]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

The rubber cover missing will not cause loss of spark. You need to pull the flywheel and check the ignition system, points, condensers and coils.

 

[ultra353]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

Most of the time( not all) the points have oxidation on the faces preventing spark. Clean them with some 400-600 grit and use some electrical contact cleaner when done. Other possibilitys are cracked coils/bad condensers/ bad-broken or coroded spark plug wires at either coils or plugs.
Like Daviet mentioned, the kill switch is there to "kill the spark when used".

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

Hi rboarderi. Welcome to iboats. I have the exact same motor and love it. It pushes me along in my 14' tinny at about 20 mph. I would go ahead and replace the factory kill switch with one of these push button lanyard kill switch. They install in the factory location in about 5 min, only cost about $10 and add and extra layer of safety to the boat. You can get them on amazon and other sites. Here are some other great links to get it up and running. Holler if you get stuck.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/381415/38141500001.htm

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_E-FD_15_18hp.html

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/index6.htm

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm

 

[rboarderi]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

So I made my own flywheel puller with a plumbing fitting and a few grade 8 bolts. Popped off the flywheel and everything looks good. I cleaned off the points but it looks like all the ignition parts have been replaced or are they the original parts? I did not have spark when I checked before I inspected the ignition system. What is the process of starting the engine to test for spark? I haven't really worked on outboards before so I am not too sure. Do I just need to put the engine in neutral and pull or is there an on switch or cut off switch that I need to be concerned with that could be stopping the spark? Attached are pictures

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

Remove spark plugs... rig a tester whereas you can set a spark gap of 1/4" for that model. This 1/4" gap is important and the spark should jump the gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

I'm assuming you have compression. Do you?

Spark plugs should be either Champion J4C or J6C plugs gapped at .030 .

Clean points with either lacquer thinner or acetone.

Set points as follows:

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP imbossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.

 

[rboarderi]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

I do have compression and I am using an ignition tester that I plug into the spark plug boot and then clamp to a ground. The stop button that is missing a cover on my engine, would that not allow the engine to make a spark? What exactly does that stop button do and what should it actually look like or have on it?

So the process for starting the engine and checking for spark would be to just put the engine in neutral and pull? Correct? There aren't any cut off ignition switches or anything?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

That stop button would normally have a rubber cap over it that has a metal washer of sorts attached to it. By pushing the rubber cap inwards, the metal washer would contact the two metal pins you see there. Those two metal pins are connected to wires that lead to the ignition points... having the two pins grounded together with the washer shorts out the two sets of points, cancels out the ignition, and stops the engine.

The above is the only cutout device the engine has. The lack of a cover on the push button enables the ignition and no means of disenabling it.

Your spark tester.... attached to a plug wire, other end to a powerhead ground.... that should work if it has a gap setting of 1/4".

 

[rboarderi]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

Thanks for the help so far everyone. I now have cleaned the points and gapped them to .020. I have spark on only one of the cylinders, so where do I go from here?

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1966 Johnson FD20-C Spark

Here's a handy link for checking over the magneto. All and all it looks to be in good shape. You can also buy a gap tester at most auto stores for about $5.

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm