1966 evinrude lark 8 40 hp, model number 40673B wiring

[deewithdip]

I just bought an old motor (1966 evinrude lark 8 40 hp, model number 40673B) for my boat that I want to connect but for my life i am not being able to figure out the connections to the wire harness coming out of the motor. There are two battery leads, one 8 pin connector and one lone wire connector. Can anyone help me figure out what they are? Also I have the evinrude selectric remote shift which has a 3 lead connector coming out of it. I know that the green is forward, blue is reverse and red is probably the ignition hot wire. Where do I connect that?

 

[jimmbo]

Welcome to iboats

http://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/61_66_40HP.jpg

 

[F_R]

No Title

I don't have the 1966 but here is the 1967.

 

[jimmbo]

I think the connector changed from an 8 pin in 66 to a 10 pin in 67

 

[deewithdip]

Thanks jimmbo and F_R. Yes they did change that in'67. 66 is a weird year it seems. will the 65 wiring work on the 66 model? the diagram shows one connector is vacant but my harness from the motor has all 8 connected!!! Right now I want to have my boat in water. Even if I cannot figure out everything I need to connect the shifter wires and hand crank to start. any suggestions?

 

[deewithdip]

Also will the newer solinoids and regulators work with this model? I am not getting a junction box for this particular model, So thinking about making one myself.

 

[F_R]

No Title

OK, I see the problem. 1967-up did not have a junction box. Everything was mounted under the hood.

Here is the next best thing I have to offer. The basics are the same, but with variations. Maybe you can figure it out.

The motor does not need to have anything connected to rope start and run.

Start solenoid and voltage regulator are the same. But I think the 1967 regulator was sealed because it sits under the carburetor. You don't plan on buying a regulator, do you? There is a solid state regulator that can be used instead. Let me know if you want to know the details.

 

[deewithdip]

Thanks a lot F_R. The wiring diagram sure helps. I couldnt find a complete junction box which I would have bought if I could get one. But now I think I need to make one myself.

YES I need the details. Can you please let me know the specs of regulator/ solinoids/ ignition switch etc then I can go ahead and build my own.

I figured that i dont need to attach any electrical cables to start the motor but to put it in gear I need to supply voltage to either the green (forward) wire or the blue (reverse) wire right? I have an evinrude selectric shift and throttle control box by the way. It has a 3-wire terminal coming out of it (green, blue and red wire). I am guessing the red wire is the hot wire to connect to the solinoid. Where do I connect the blue and the green wires, to the green and blue wires coming out of the motor? For now I can connect the green and blue wires of the shift control box to the green and blue wires of the motor and red of the shift control box to the positive of the battery. Tha way when I push the forward button current will flow through the green wire to the gear engaging coil and then complete the circuit through the ground terminal of the motor which I will connect to the negative terminal of the battery. Does it make sense? Will that work?

 

[F_R]

Solid state voltage regulator is usually available on e-bay. It fits Harley Davidson FL models 1965-77 and 1956-77 XLH Sportster. DO NOT take my word for that!!! I am not a Harley expert. It is extremely important that you get one for a DC generator, 10 AMPS. There are similar ones for more amps--you do not want those.. When you go to hook it up, you need to know that the red wire is Battery Positive, Orange wire is generator Armature (yellow on the diagrams), and green wire is generator Field (Blue on the diagrams). And the case has to be grounded.

As for the shift, green is forward, blue is reverse. DO NOT allow a voltage to contact both at the same time while it is running. That will bust something. The wires come up from the lower unit at the rear of the powerhead.

 

[deewithdip]

That is very helpful. I will look into the voltage regulator. I think this solinoid will work for me too

Starter Solenoid Switch Johnson, OMC, Evinrude Outboard Motor

what do you think?

 

[deewithdip]

Ok I could start up my motor. It's running good. But I think the water exhaust is not squirting out enough water. I can only see little splashes of water but not streams of water. That makes me think that I need to change the propeller of the water pump. I am thinking about rebuilding the water pump. Which model water pump fits in my evinrude lark 8 40 hp electric shift model? Where can I buy the pump rebuild kit?

 

[F_R]

That motor does not "Squirt" water. It only blows out droplets if the thermostat is closed, and blows out a heavier spray if it is open. The thermostat constantly monitors the temperature and opens and closes as necessary to maintain proper temp.

BUT--if you don't know the history of it, you probably should replace the impeller anyway. iboats has them.

 

[deewithdip]

Whao!!! That's awesome. That makes me feel good. Can you send me the link to the impeller please? Do iboats sell the repair kit too like the gaskets, the wear plate, the impeller etc?

Also the generator seems to be loose which makes the belt between the generator and the flywheel loose. The guy who sold me the motor told me that it's supposed to b that way and only tightens when attains a particular speed. But I think It's not supposed to b like that right? Probably I'm missing a bolt or something that is making it loose. Also the wire coming out of the center of the base of the generator is the armature right?

Thanks for all the help. You know a lot about these motors

 

[deewithdip]

My generator seems to be moving a little bit making the belt loose too. Is it supposed to be like that? How many bolts hold a generator in place? At least two I would guess. Right? I have only one attached

Also the vacuum cut-out switch is mounted on the motor right? so I just run a wire from that to the ignition key switch and another comes from the magneto directly. Is that right? On my ignition switch there are two 'M' pins, one is raised and different than the others. Which of the wires should I connect on that one?

 

[deewithdip]

What is the generator rotation direction for this model? CW or CCW?

I completed the wiring rebuild. I will post the pics soon. The ignition switch works fine. Only the generator doesnt seem to charge. Although I have only run the motor in a 38 gallon trash can never put it on gear. I tried to throttle up to see if the generator charges but with no effect.Someone told me that I need to be in gear and pretty high speed to see if its producing any electricity. I am going to do the generator bench test (grounding the field and giving +ve 12 V to the armature) to see if its any good. Or maybe I fried my regulator (I did accidentally momentarily short the battery and the field terminal instead of the armature). Can anyone tell me the model number of the generator used for the 1966 Evinrude Lark 8 40 hp selectric shift (40673B) or an equivalent? I think its an auto-lite 12 V 10 amp. Is it CW or CCW rotation? If i am looking down from the top of the engine (pulley end), it rotates clockwise.

 

[F_R]

You probably cooked that regulator. Did you let the smoke out? Two generators that were used were GJG-4001M and GJG-4002M. There may have been others. They are all interchangeable. Yes. 12V 10A. Of course it rotates the same direction as the flywheel--clockwise. It should start to charge at about 2000 RPM, a rather fast idle.

EDIT: On second thought, maybe they are not interchangeable. I'm thinking the V-4 uses a different one than the Twins. Different armature shaft lengths??

 

[deewithdip]

I used a solid state regulator. I did not see any smoke. Is there a way to check if the regulator is actually toasted?

 

[Crosbyman]

https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/61_66_40HP.jpg

 

[jbcurt00]

How do i test the shift coils and where are they located?

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