1966 40hp Big Twin to Suzuki DF25 on 14' SC holiday?

matt167

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My 40hp Johnson Super Seahorse Deluxe is a great running motor, but being from 1966 and has had some float flooding troubles ( sunk cork float ), makes me cross my fingers when I hit the key and I won't go out without aux propulsion. It does start almost instantly every time, even getting compliments at the ramp

I've been eying the Suzuki DF series for years, there is a local dealer for service, although he does not sell anything below 40hp in general ( in stock ). But Online Outboards has DF25's for $4,200 right now which I think is about $1,000 less than the last time I checked.. How will the new 25hp 4 stroke fare vs the old Big Twin? My boat is a 14' aluminum runabout so either will pull it up out of the water I know and I've seen Holiday 14's with as little as 15hp on the back but it is rated at 40hp.. Could I hook the cable/ drum steering up to the modern engine or do I need to convert that? ( I do have an extra teleflex helm )
 

racerone

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Myself I would stick with a good running 40 HP Evinrude------A simple reliable well built machine.-----Easy and cheap to fix / maintain.
 

Beagleville

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I agree. The OMC 40 was one of the best motors ever made. While the Suzuki is also a great motor, you'd miss the 15 hp. On the other hand, the Suzuki would be quiet, fumeless, and easier on fuel.
 

matt167

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I agree it's a great motor. I do have to eventually get another lower unit end cap. Someone destroyed the one that is on it, and gooped it up with alumi weld. It holds and the skeg is still good, but it looks horrible. Also the choke solenoid quit working, so the manual choke is the only way to start it

I wonder though, being the 25hp is a portable I could buy a second controller, and use the motor on both of my small boats. Just rig it to whichever one I needed that day.. I also think I might squeeze a little more performance out of the Suzuki being it has PTT where the old Big twin just has a tilt lock, which I think is actually broken.
 
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matt167

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I just ordered a new DF25ATS3, 10' control cables and a tach with engine function idiot lights for $4,700

I'm going to trade a little speed, for a little quieter operation, reliability and fuel economy. Also won't have to have a trolling motor as it should be able to slow fast enough
 

RMClark

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I'm going to trade a little speed, for a little quieter operation, reliability and fuel economy. Also won't have to have a trolling motor as it should be able to slow fast enough
Enjoy that new motor!

I'm very surprised how quiet the new motors are. I spent a day with a guide on a lake in Minnesota several weeks ago. He had a 175HP Suzuki (tiller!) on his boat, and when I got on the boat, I didn't realize it was even running at idle. I have a new Merc 20HP on a 14' Lund. My Merc is MUCH quieter than the 30HP Johnson 2 cycle it replaced. And the friends who fish with me are surprised at how quiet it is.

Fuel economy: I can fish all day on less than 2 gallons of gas. Heck, I spend more on nightcrawlers than I do on boat fuel.

Regarding trolling speed: The slowest my Merc will troll at idle (~950 rpm) is a little over 2 mph. That's a little faster than I'd like. I could backtroll at a lower speed, but unless the lake is dead calm, I get a lot of splashing over the transom.
 

matt167

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Enjoy that new motor!

I'm very surprised how quiet the new motors are. I spent a day with a guide on a lake in Minnesota several weeks ago. He had a 175HP Suzuki (tiller!) on his boat, and when I got on the boat, I didn't realize it was even running at idle. I have a new Merc 20HP on a 14' Lund. My Merc is MUCH quieter than the 30HP Johnson 2 cycle it replaced. And the friends who fish with me are surprised at how quiet it is.

Fuel economy: I can fish all day on less than 2 gallons of gas. Heck, I spend more on nightcrawlers than I do on boat fuel.

Regarding trolling speed: The slowest my Merc will troll at idle (~950 rpm) is a little over 2 mph. That's a little faster than I'd like. I could backtroll at a lower speed, but unless the lake is dead calm, I get a lot of splashing over the transom.

Agreed, it may not go slow enough, but it will idle for hours unlike a Big Twin 40hp, so a couple trolling bags will get me the 1.5-1.9mph for trolling lake trout that will land me fish.

I have a 1997 Evinrude 4hp. An awesome motor in it's own right ( I have well under $200 into it running perfect, and I paid $20 for it locked up ). But it will be nice to have just one motor onboard. I'll kick the electric trolling motor under the bow and keep the bracket for it just in case
 

racerone

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Why would a big twin not troll for hrs ??----I trolled with a 235 HP V-6 motor , a 1982 model.-----Hour after hour and no issues.-----The parts and pieces do not know how big a motor is !!
 

matt167

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Why would a big twin not troll for hrs ??----I trolled with a 235 HP V-6 motor , a 1982 model.-----Hour after hour and no issues.-----The parts and pieces do not know how big a motor is !!

Just afraid of it loading up being 2 stroke. My dad had an old 50hp, wouldn't idle that long before it loaded up and died
 

racerone

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A 2 stroke in good condition does not load up.----But everyone has an opinion on this topic.-----I also troll ( 3000' elevation ) with a 1963 model 10 HP Johnson.----Trolls hr after hour on 24:1 ratio !!!
 

matt167

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A 2 stroke in good condition does not load up.----But everyone has an opinion on this topic.-----I also troll ( 3000' elevation ) with a 1963 model 10 HP Johnson.----Trolls hr after hour on 24:1 ratio !!!

It was never my intention to troll with the 40hp. At idle it is way too fast. trolling bags would help. If I kept that motor I would have hung my '97 Rude 4hp as a troller/ spare in case
 

matt167

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Your 40 was not in good condition if it would not troll all day !!

The issue was not knowing how good it was without knowing what to look for what wasn't, if it wasn't 'good'. It starts almost instantly, I've had it in the bucket running for hours but it does start to skip and pop after a while, but clears right up with a little throttle. Seemed to be fully operational to me but. I would rather run a kicker to troll with in that situation so if it quit ( and it did with a sunk float )

I may save the 40hp for the boat I'm building being it's longer and heavier being a wooden micro cabin cruiser
 

matt167

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I did figure out that the 25hp and 30hp differences is only the ECU and a throttle body restrictor vs a spark arrester. $600 in parts + voiding the warranty most likely. I would have gotten a 30hp, except Zuk does not make a 30hp short shaft.. I won't void the warranty so I'll leave it as 25hp. Figuring it would make 30hp using the crank hp standards from when the boat was new, it's within that 75% of max
 

matt167

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I hit the first snag I think while de rigging the 40hp. Nothing that I cannot overcome I'm pretty sure.

The center link for the cable steering that hooks to the motor is a push in and 1/4 turn key hole thing, for the old motor and it's horizontal. I need to somehow adapt that to the center bolt of the new motor which is verical. I used to have the cable end from a Mercury which was probably the right part, but I think I can modify this one and not have to split the cable. Someone did re cable it at some point as well, although all the hardware is original.

I have a used but perfectly good working Teleflex helm, but I don't have a long enough steering cable and I really don't want to swap out everything
 

dingbat

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I have a used but perfectly good working Teleflex helm, but I don't have a long enough steering cable and I really don't want to swap out everything
Not a fan and refuse to do things half reared with a “new” installation anymore.

You’re spending the money, time and energy to repower. Get a cable of the right length that fits both the helm and motor.
 

matt167

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Not a fan and refuse to do things half reared with a “new” installation anymore.

You’re spending the money, time and energy to repower. Get a cable of the right length that fits both the helm and motor.

It's for sure in the cards for winter, but my new motor comes on Tuesday and I'm hoping to have it in the water on Sunday. Since the cable steering is operational, all I need to do is create an adapter
 

matt167

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I looked at the original Johnson hook, and its designed in a way that the 'T pin' can be removed, and then a bolt through the center of it. I've actually found pictures of the same bracket set up like that. I'll add teflon washers top and bottom.


The bigger problem is, I measured for 10' control cables but thought in my head it was short. I ordered 10' cables along with the motor... After De rigging and removing the original Johnson Shipmaster control and cables, I measured the shift cable which would be approx the correct length at just over 11'. Nobody can get me cables before sept 10th and Iboats only offers standard shipping. So West Marine has them in stock waiting for me to pick up 12' cables tomorrow
 
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