1965 Jet Star restoration

[TM-1(ss)]

Greetings everyone. I have acquired a '65 Starcrart runabout. It is a 15 footer and is, I think, the Jetstar model. The hull is in great shape considering its age, but the interior was shot. I have stripped it out, I have read a lot of the threads here and I know you fellows know a lot more about restoration than I do, so I'd like to ask questions as necessary so I don't do anything too stupid.

Pictures:








Questions: Is it a Jetstar? The bilge is sound, but should I do anything to it -- like paint -- before I put in the new deck? I plan to use exterior grade plywood (pressure treated and Aluminum do not go together) and apply several coats of spar urethane. I would also like to cover it with marine carpet. Any downside to that plan?

 

[MACHINE]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

looks GOOD get after it , see my thread 1964 Starcraft and a NEWBE ,, the guys are giving me great info ,, I mocked up the floor and hung the 50 Honda today , I'm getting the itch for "sea trials " LOL

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

Great! another Jet Star it looks like to me. It looks as though it's been worked on before, is that transom original? Mine is 15", another member has one that is for long shaft but appears to be original. Could be the year difference, mine is a 1964. However I am modifying mine for 20". Love that color scheme.

As far as the deck, I would seal the wood with epoxy at the least, then paint, several recommend adding cloth for strength & durability. I painted my interior and exposed bilge with Rustoleum Marine. I would recommend against carpet, but a lot of people use it. To my way of thinnking it holds the water against the wood and accelerates rotting. It's one of two things I don't think belong in a boat; the other is silicone sealant.

Welcome to a great site, you've found the premier restoration forums!

 

[TM-1(ss)]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

It looks as though it's been worked on before, is that transom original?

It has been worked on, but not extensively. There were apparently 3 thwarts originally, but the center one was removed long ago. The aluminum transom is original, but the wood has been replaced at least once. There appears to have been a second drain plug on the starboard side that was sealed up. Does anyone know if that was original, or perhaps done by another owner?

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

I never heard of two drain plugs in a boat that size. Not sure what you mean when you say "3 thwarts"? At any rate, these are easy to work on and you should have good success, looks like you got a good solid hull to start with.

 

[bananaboater]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

Welcome. I'm pretty sure it is a Jet, not Jet Star because I have a Jet. The fore and aft seat brackets indicate two seats. The Jet Star has back to back folding seats. If you want to see how I did mine keeping it very close to original check my photobucket link. Great little boat and fun to restore. Check the link here on brochures to see how SC promoted this line.

 

[powersledder]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

Welcome, I also just acquired a Jet Star a few weeks ago. Very fun boat to drive. Good luck with the restoration.

 

[heyyou325]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

Welcome. As Lakelover said, I'd seal the deck with epoxy before you put it in, then after. Also carpeting, if it's going to be a fishing boat, your hooks well be caught in it all the time, a vinyl may work better. A pleasure boat on the other hand carpeting might be best. And I have seen boats with 2 drains, one on either side of a center stringer. I don't see one in your boat tho.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

The fore and aft seat brackets indicate two seats. The Jet Star has back to back folding seats.

My Jet Star has two seat brackets, but it didn't have folding back to back seats. It had sort of a back to back bench seat, where the back seat passengers leaned against the back of the front seat. I'm pretty sure it was original. There's a good picture of it on the first page of my thread. Doesn't look too comfortable, but I think it was meant to be a ski boat with spotters/skiers in the back. It used flotation cushions on the board to sit on. Is there a capacity plate anywhere in it, if so that should have the model name.

 

[TM-1(ss)]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

There are brackets for two seats remaining, riveted to the hull, with the center one having been removed and the holes filled with screws. I will get a close-up of where I think a second drain might have been,

Over the weekend I started to replace the wood under the foredeck. The center piece was nothing but a piece of pine slab wood, complete with some bark. Another great discovery was that the original assembly used a lot of lower grade bolts that had corroded into immovability. My new best friend is Mr. Sawzall.

I also found the dash was rotten across most of the top edge. It too was installed with hardware that had corroded and getting it out took me about two hours. I fabricated a new dash from 3/4 red oak and devised a method to install it without removing the foredeck. It has been dry fitted, and looks good. I will take a series of pictures as I do the final installation after it is stained and sealed.

One more thing: the steering (Morse) is a problem. I finally got the corroded ring off the front after hosing it down with WD-40, but the remaining part is still too big to fit through the 2.25" hole. I tried removing the spring clip, but that didn't help. Does anyone know how to do it?

 

[TM-1(ss)]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

Oh yes, instead of plywood for the new deck I am thinking about individual planks. Is there any reason not to do it that way? Failing that, I think a plywood deck that has been epoxied will crack if I try to bend it as much as the fore end will require so I might do it in two longitudinal halves. Objections?

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

I fabricated a new dash from 3/4 red oak and devised a method to install it without removing the foredeck. It has been dry fitted, and looks good. I will take a series of pictures as I do the final installation after it is stained and sealed.

I'll be very interested in seeing this, I didn't see any way to get it out without removing the top deck. Ideally, I would like to replace mine too.

My original triangular foredeck was flat, with flotation under it (and lots of mice), no bend involved. I don't plan on replacing it, need more leg room. Same with the dash tray, I left it out for more knee room. I don't see why you couldn't use individual boards if you want to go to the extra work.

 

[TM-1(ss)]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

About what may have been a second drain plug. Check out the lower right picture on this Starcraft: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=466566

 

[heyyou325]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

I've had good luck with tongue and groove boards in the past for decking. Years ago, redwood. Treated them with Thompson water seal. But just regular cut cedar rolls when you were moving on the pedestal seats. Even put some straps on top. Not sure if I did something wrong or what. I've got that in a boat now.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

About what may have been a second drain plug. Check out the lower right picture on this Starcraft: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=466566

Not sure which picture you are referring to....my transom has two holes for splashwell drainage, and one near the bottomfor the plug.

 

[TM-1(ss)]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

I'll be very interested in seeing this, I didn't see any way to get it out without removing the top deck. Ideally, I would like to replace mine too.

I will be as detailed as possible with pictures/descriptions as I do the installation, hopefully this Saturday.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

Great, looking forward to it!

 

[TM-1(ss)]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

Here are some pictures of the dash. There was no way I was going to let that slide.

Still in the boat:



Starboard side:



Port side:



This is typical of the fasteners used. These are the mounting screws for the starboard bow chock.

 

[TM-1(ss)]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

As promised, here are the pictures and details of installing the new dash. The key to success is making an exact template from the old dash. The kerf from halving it will provide sufficient relief to let the two pieces come together with only a little coaxing. Remember that the unsupported foredeck will have sagged a little, and the new dash will have to be pressed up into position and carefully lined up with the moulding strip. Join the halves BEFORE securing the ends. I used a wedge stick to press the ends into place before drilling and screwing them into place. The original gunwale braces were on the inside of the inner wale and not convenient to work with. I replaced them with .25x3x1 aluminum angles. The foredeck supports can now be replaced with ease and will add further ridgidity to the structure. Do remember to ease the aft top edge a little to accommodate the trim strip rivets.

Below is the red oak dash, in two halves slipped into place. No fasteners yet.



Here it is from the back. The halves align easily, and are secured with a piece of red oak from the same plank glued and screwed. I like to use the exact same wood for this sort of splice because it eliminates the possibility of differing expansion rates.



This is the starboard end with the cutout for the switch panel, also heavily reinforced in the same manner as the main splice. Notice that the 3/4 dash is slightly thinner than the original hence the need for a small shim.



And here it is installed.

 

[TM-1(ss)]

Re: 1965 restoration

Re: 1965 restoration

The bilge is in good shape, but has a layer of crud about 45 years thick. I have blown out the ribs and wire brushed the spots that needed it. The plan is to put in a coat of EZ Bilge paint later in the week. Question: what is the best product to clean/etch the aluminum with? I have heard that 2 cups of vinegar in a gallon of water works, but that seems a little light. How about weak muriatic acid? I'd be grateful for any other suggestions.