1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

buggz

Recruit
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
2
Howdy,
I have a 9.5hp 1964 Evinrude mod 9822E, the motor starts easy, runs great slow mid range. but when you crank it to full throttle it just doesnt want to go. tried adjusting lean rich but didnt help....... any ideals. . "i bought it running ruff" this was done at boat shop. rebuild fuel pump, newer ignition got out on water and it is that is where the problem was.
 

tx1961whaler

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
5,197
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

Standard troubleshooting applies. Check the compression on both cylinders. Make sure there is spark on both cylinders. Make sure the throttle linkage is operating properly. If there are OK, then suspect that the high speed jet in the carb is clogged.
 

Rick.

Captain
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
3,740
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

I would give the carb. a new kit and clean it very thoroughly. Best of luck. Rick.
 

buggz

Recruit
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
2
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

Standard troubleshooting applies. Check the compression on both cylinders. Make sure there is spark on both cylinders. Make sure the throttle linkage is operating properly. If there are OK, then suspect that the high speed jet in the carb is clogged.
Went through top to to bottom didn't find and thing out of wack, put back in tank ran good was able to high rev it so this is a better sign.... thank you for Tue point in rite direction.
 

cajuncook1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
559
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

According to your model number you provided (mod 9822E), you have 1968 motor.

If it idles rough to start and you adjusted your slow idle needle, then the guys are right you may have to do good carburetor clean with a kit.

The kit is product number 382048

Couple of things you can try before you tear into your carburetor.

1.) Check to make sure your fuel hose from your tank is in good shape as well as your fuel connectors, so it does not allow air to enter and cause fuel displacement and poor fuel delivery. Also check the fuel hoses from the motors fuel connector to the fuel pump and the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor.

2.) Remove the fuel pump adjustable cover and make sure the little screen is not clogged up with trash or gummed up fuel. This can cause poor fuel delivery.

3.) Make sure your bulb and connector is connected closest to your tank with the arrow pointing to motor as the direction of the fuel flow.

4.) Make sure the fuel cap air vent is open. If closed it will not allow the fuel pump to properly siphon fuel because of the increase negative pressure in the tank.

5.) After you start the motor, take off the motor cover, if the rough idle or motor runs much better at higher throttle settings then you have exhaust leak. Which is somewhat common to these motors. (We can review that if it is the case)

*** If you are testing this motor in barrel, then take the cover off and put a fan blowing next to it, so the motor does not inhale its own exhaust. Because this a low profile and compact motor, it sit low in the barrel and has a tendency to inhale its own fumes when not on the boat in the open and moving along.***

6.) Make sure you have fresh mix of gas 87 octane and twc-3 2cycle oil mixed at a ratio of 50:1. Old fuel mix in tank can accumulate water and cause very poor running indeed. If you live up north and this tank was filled during the cooler months, it may have a winter blend of gas and can vaporize in the fuel line or fuel pump during these very hot months and cause vapor lock in the fuel pump system (I know, probably not the case but I thought worth mentioning)

Oh course the suggestions of checking for spark on both cylinders and compression check on both cylinder is very good idea, the guys are steering you in the right direction, please listen to there guidance.

You could be running one cylinder. Those motors will idle ok and run ok at lower ranges, but will fall short on power if it is running on one cylinder.

Always do CSF checks!!!
c= compression
s = spark
f = fuel delivery

I've put a couple of attachments for you gander!!
 

Attachments

  • 9.5hp exhaust leak areas.jpg
    9.5hp exhaust leak areas.jpg
    144.4 KB · Views: 2
  • FuelRatio.jpg
    FuelRatio.jpg
    53.4 KB · Views: 2
  • 9.5 hp carb float position.jpg
    9.5 hp carb float position.jpg
    39.4 KB · Views: 1
  • 4th Exhaust leak for the 9.5hp motor.jpg
    4th Exhaust leak for the 9.5hp motor.jpg
    137.9 KB · Views: 2

cajuncook1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
559
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

I should learn not to type up long responses or be too detailed :)
 

Rick.

Captain
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
3,740
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

cajuncook1:

I feel your pain. Too many times I wee the thoroughest of answers go unacknowledged. Makes you feel a little used. Anyway, for what it's worth, I enjoyed reading your post and was thinking hey maybe this guy apprenticed with Ezeke who seemed to know everything about the 9.5's. Rick.
 

cajuncook1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
559
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

Rick,

I've mechanically rebuilt a couple of 9.5hp motors for my own enjoyment, but I am not even remotely in league with Ezeke or FR. Those 2 gentlemen have earned their place in outboard heaven a long time ago. I have read a lot of their posts regarding the 9.5hp motor and have kept records and notes. Those guys have co-authored the bible on 9.5hp motors!!!:D

Thanks for the very kind words!!

David T.
 

Rick.

Captain
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
3,740
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

Your right and your welcome. Haven't seen any posts from F_R lately and haven't seen Ezeke for a very long time. I guess guys get busy and you can't blame them. Rick.
 

basshappy

Recruit
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
3
Re: 1964 9.5hp Evinrude wont fast run

THis is a great response. I found it very helpful! Thanks for taking the time to write.


According to your model number you provided (mod 9822E), you have 1968 motor.

If it idles rough to start and you adjusted your slow idle needle, then the guys are right you may have to do good carburetor clean with a kit.

The kit is product number 382048

Couple of things you can try before you tear into your carburetor.

1.) Check to make sure your fuel hose from your tank is in good shape as well as your fuel connectors, so it does not allow air to enter and cause fuel displacement and poor fuel delivery. Also check the fuel hoses from the motors fuel connector to the fuel pump and the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor.

2.) Remove the fuel pump adjustable cover and make sure the little screen is not clogged up with trash or gummed up fuel. This can cause poor fuel delivery.

3.) Make sure your bulb and connector is connected closest to your tank with the arrow pointing to motor as the direction of the fuel flow.

4.) Make sure the fuel cap air vent is open. If closed it will not allow the fuel pump to properly siphon fuel because of the increase negative pressure in the tank.

5.) After you start the motor, take off the motor cover, if the rough idle or motor runs much better at higher throttle settings then you have exhaust leak. Which is somewhat common to these motors. (We can review that if it is the case)

*** If you are testing this motor in barrel, then take the cover off and put a fan blowing next to it, so the motor does not inhale its own exhaust. Because this a low profile and compact motor, it sit low in the barrel and has a tendency to inhale its own fumes when not on the boat in the open and moving along.***

6.) Make sure you have fresh mix of gas 87 octane and twc-3 2cycle oil mixed at a ratio of 50:1. Old fuel mix in tank can accumulate water and cause very poor running indeed. If you live up north and this tank was filled during the cooler months, it may have a winter blend of gas and can vaporize in the fuel line or fuel pump during these very hot months and cause vapor lock in the fuel pump system (I know, probably not the case but I thought worth mentioning)

Oh course the suggestions of checking for spark on both cylinders and compression check on both cylinder is very good idea, the guys are steering you in the right direction, please listen to there guidance.

You could be running one cylinder. Those motors will idle ok and run ok at lower ranges, but will fall short on power if it is running on one cylinder.

Always do CSF checks!!!
c= compression
s = spark
f = fuel delivery

I've put a couple of attachments for you gander!!
 
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