1963 Evinrude won’t start

[jitterbug127]

I found a beautiful 1963 Evinrude on marketplace that I can’t get started. I cleaned the carburetor which already looked pristine, motor has spark and I’ve run fresh gas through it. I sanded and set the points and put brand new gas on motor. I can get it to cough or bark. I sprayed ether in the cylinders and straight into intake manifold just to see if it would start and still nothing. All connection under magneto look good, and honestly look new. I’ve got bright blue spark on each of my plugs when I checked them out. Woodruff key isn’t sheared. I’m not shocked it won’t start I’m surprised it won’t even try to start. Any advice on what to check next?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[racerone]

What HP ?----I say you have weak spark !----Or plug wires reversed.-----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on a test device , yes or no ?

 

[jitterbug127]

What HP ?----I say you have weak spark !----Or plug wires reversed.-----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on a test device , yes or no ?

Hp is 5.5. I don’t have a spark tester that can jump a gap. The one I could find with decent reviews is $125 from sierra (recommendation on cheaper alternative?) I do have an inline one it lights up and I did put plug up against bolt and had blue spark.

I did double check wires. Front coil going top cylinder and back going to bottom.

 

[Chris1956]

If she didn't fire on ether, you have no spark. Even if the spark was well out of time, she would backfire on ether. Maybe your motor will not spark under compression?

I would check the ignition plate for wobble, and make sure the coils are in the correct position on the plate, and the condensers are good.

 

[jitterbug127]

What HP ?----I say you have weak spark !----Or plug wires reversed.-----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on a test device , yes or no ?

Hp is 5.5. I don’t have a spark tester that can jump a gap. The only one I could find with decent reviews is $125

 

[jitterbug127]

If she didn't fire on ether, you have no spark. Even if the spark was well out of time, she would backfire on ether. Maybe your motor will not spark under compression?

I would check the ignition plate for wobble, and make sure the coils are in the correct position on the plate, and the condensers are good.

I checked th

 

[jitterbug127]

Front coil goes to top cylinder and back coil goes to bottom cylinder

 

[jitterbug127]

I know this is going to be hard to see in the video, but wanted to show what I did.

 

[racerone]

Waste of time to check spark that way !!!-----Make a spark tester.---Piece of carboard or plywood.----Glue wire on it with 1/4" gap between them.----Then clip on end to the block and one end into sparkplug boot.----Simple as simple can be.

 

[jitterbug127]

Waste of time to check spark that way !!!-----Make a spark tester.---Piece of carboard or plywood.----Glue wire on it with 1/4" gap between them.----Then clip on end to the block and one end into sparkplug boot.----Simple as simple can be.

Once again racer to the rescue!!’

 

[tjandrews]

Hp is 5.5. I don’t have a spark tester that can jump a gap. The one I could find with decent reviews is $125 from sierra (recommendation on cheaper alternative?) I do have an inline one it lights up and I did put plug up against bolt and had blue spark.

I did double check wires. Front coil going top cylinder and back going to bottom.

Air gap spark testers aren't rocket surgery, so even the cheap ones should work - if used correctly. All they are is two(or three) electrodes mounted in an insulator with a gap between them. One electrode is set to connect to the spark plug wire, and the other to the spark plug terminal, but they work better if that end is connected to ground. The most useful ones have an adjustable gap.
I have one I bought from Briggs & Stratton some 30 years ago that is still working today. Sadly, they seem to have changed the design of that one, making it no longer adjustable.
Look on Amazon for "adjustable spark tester, and you'll see several for around 10 dollars or so. While I haven't tested any of them myself (no need, mine is good.), they look to me like they should work.

 

[jitterbug127]

Air gap spark testers aren't rocket surgery, so even the cheap ones should work - if used correctly. All they are is two(or three) electrodes mounted in an insulator with a gap between them. One electrode is set to connect to the spark plug wire, and the other to the spark plug terminal, but they work better if that end is connected to ground. The most useful ones have an adjustable gap.
I have one I bought from Briggs & Stratton some 30 years ago that is still working today. Sadly, they seem to have changed the design of that one, making it no longer adjustable.
Look on Amazon for "adjustable spark tester, and you'll see several for around 10 dollars or so. While I haven't tested any of them myself (no need, mine is good.), they look to me like they should work.

I’m going to head to parts store now see if I can find something!!!

 

[OptsyEagle]

I built this one from Leeroy's Ramblings and it works great. A piece of wood cut with a jig saw and two bolts with nuts to allow adjustment. Spark plug boots go on the bolts and you attach the clip that's connected to a metal plate at the top of it, to the motors ground and pull the starter and look for spark.

As others have said, if you are going to work on these motors a good spark tester is imperative. Right now all you know is that you might have spark. You need to know if you do or you don't so you can eliminate it in order to isolate the motor's true problem. It's fundamental.

 

[jitterbug127]

I got one at autozone 5 bucks. No spark on lower cylinder. I’d say that could be a problem. Thanks for suggestions everyone

 

[tjandrews]

I built this one from Leeroy's Ramblings and it works great. A piece of wood cut with a jig saw and two bolts with nuts to allow adjustment. Spark plug boots go on the bolts and you attach the clip that's connected to a metal plate at the top of it, to the motors ground and pull the starter and look for spark.

As others have said, if you are going to work on these motors a good spark tester is imperative. Right now all you know is that you might have spark. You need to know if you do or you don't so you can eliminate it in order to isolate the motor's true problem. It's fundamental.

This is the one I got from Briggs & Stratton many, many years ago. I remember that it seemed pricey when I got it, but it's held up well and has proved to be invaluable over the years.

 

[oldboat1]

Reset the points (.020).

 

[Crosbyman]

ohms from boot plug to engine frame must read 4-8 kohms approx.
points must be clean clean clean !!

plug wires sometimes go open in the bend under the mag plate ...they may test ok but the rotation of the mag plate can suddendly open the plug wire

 

[lindy46]

Reset the points (.020).

Agree. In your first pic, the point rub bar is where it should be for the point to be open to. 020". It doesn't look like it's open that much.

 

[Crosbyman]

loosen the set screw and widen to 020. what is critical is not .020 it is to open at exactly TDC

 

[racerone]

I say it all the time.----This simple magneto was installed from 1950 to 1990 om motors from 1.5 HP tp 40 HP.---Easy to maintain in any garage or backyard !