1963 3hp evinrude: *please read the whole problem.*

207Rebel

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I'm having some weird issues, the motor will start and run. Wide open the choke isnt needed, (runs kinda choppy tho) however at idle it needs the choke pulled out, I'd say about 1/4 of the way. Let me make it clear however it will not stay running with the choke wide open or even halfway, at idle or wot, I've gotta find the sweet spot. It will idle for 15 to 30 seconds without the choke at all but then will slowly die, I was having problems with the needle sticking and it wouldn't run at all, but after fixing that issue I now have it to where it is now. Any help would be appreciated, I plan on putting it on the lake this weekend. Btw, this motor hasn't run for 21+ years, ran for maybe 15 minutes about 10 years ago and then fouled plugs, we left it alone until the motor and the boat were given to me, also I'm told this motor has a long history of fouling plugs, even when bought brand new, any ideas?
 

kbait

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If mixture needles are set correctly, choking a warm engine will always make it run worse (too rich). Old gas could cause it, dirty carb also. Be sure to clean thoroughly..lots of links for carb cleaning procedure.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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Remove the line from the carburetor that leads to the fuel tank. Check to see that fuel flows freely and constantly when you open the shut off valve at the tank..... making sure that the filter that's screwed into the fuel tank is not clogged.

Remove the carburetor... remove the drain screw/bolt from the float chamber. The high speed jet is located in the bottom center portion of the float chamber, way in back of that drain screw. Clean that jet carefully with a piece of single strand steel wire.

Remove and clean the brass nozzle from the center portion of the upper carburetor body (all its small holes).

Make sure that the float N/Valve is thoroughly clean and works freely.
********************
(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.
********************
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

That should do it... If you reassembled and installed that carburetor. :)
 

racerone

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Plugs " fouling " may be due to weak spark.----Answer this, does spark jump a gap of 5/16" on it, yes or no.-----It is common for both coils to be cracked and useless.-----So remove recoil.----Remove bits on top of the flywheel and inspect the coils.-----It will have 2 bad ones or 2 new ones already.
 

lindy46

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How is compression? Have you changed the water pump impeller? If it hasn't been run in all those years, I would change it before running it.
 

Crosbyman

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Nov 5, 2006
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6,298
JW's are simple engines and sitting 21 years will require a full carb clean as indicated
lots of utubes to look at to do this


yes….. coils are most likely 99% cracked if never replaced 21 years ago

the carb…. the top dime size plug should be pulled … it is a small chamber with 3 VERY small drip holes to feed gas at idle and slow speeds . it is part of the carb cleaning process See link MAX RULES

check the following links for info

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...Johnson 3 HP 1952-1967 Carburetor Tune-UP.htm

https://maxrules.com/fixtuneitup2.html
 

207Rebel

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I tested spark, and it sparks like a badboy, no problem there. However the person before me jacked the main jet you're talking about up so bad you cant get a screw driver to grab enough to spin it. (the one with the little holes through it) terminology is a little rusty. Sorry. I know it's not the best way to do it but I cleaned it up the best i could with it all together and was able to get it to run but like I said above I'm having issues. I dont want to mess with the low speed needle, it should be set perfectly, no ones ever messed with it. I also made sure it's got brand new gas, anyone have a trick to pull that main jet out? Everything you guys have recommended I've already done except being able to pull that jet and clean the little holes with a wire. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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I tested spark, and it sparks like a bad boy, no problem there. However the person before me jacked the main jet you're talking about up so bad you cant get a screw driver to grab enough to spin it. (the one with the little holes through it) terminology is a little rusty. Sorry. I know it's not the best way to do it but I cleaned it up the best i could with it all together and was able to get it to run but like I said above I'm having issues. I dont want to mess with the low speed needle, it should be set perfectly, no ones ever messed with it. I also made sure it's got brand new gas, anyone have a trick to pull that main jet out? Everything you guys have recommended I've already done except being able to pull that jet and clean the little holes with a wire. Thanks for the help everyone.

No... I think we've pretty well covered it.
 
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Chinewalker

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Aug 19, 2001
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8,902
You tested spark but have you actually visually checked the coils? Many of those old, cracked coils will spark in open air, and might even work for awhile - until they don't. Eventually, the remaining insulation will break down enough for the coil to arc out to the mounting plate and you're rowing home.
 

Crosbyman

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Nov 5, 2006
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6,298
heat does funny things to coils, condensers etc... they may look good work and… bomb out from engine heat

I dont think you need to mess with the hs jet other than passing a fine piece of stiff wire from a metallic twisted cable

and blowing out the rest with carb cleaner

you said it kinda runs ok at HS so the HS circuit can't be to bad

did you clean out the low speed chamber under the dime size plug on top because you said it needs choking to run at LS … indicates fuel does not make it to the chamber and out the 3 small drip holes without having to increase the vacum draw on the LS circuit of the carb


btw make certain the side channel leading UP to the LS chamber is open and free of varnish etc... the carb gasket must be aligned not to block the side channel …. clean out with carb cleaner and blow dry
 

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