1962 Evinrude Sportwin 10 hp

[GoodMr1967]

Hello. I just got a little 10 hp Evinrude with a 12' aluminum boat for some lake fishing next spring. The seller said it had been 10 years since he had run her, but he figured she should still run. I got her in a barrel of water with some fresh gas (there was 10 year old gas still in the tank: ) and pulled the cord. She started up, a bit rough, but ran for about 5 minutes and quit. There was water flow from the outlet while running. Once the motor quit, I couldn't restart it until all was cool again: more than 1 hour. Out of curiosity, I checked the compression and found a whopping 55 psi in each piston! Looked like a great time to pull the head and see what was inside. You can see the results in the photo below - someone didn't flush blue. I am imagining that this project is going to be in depth, but that could be a fun time with my three sons at the workbench with me. Now, for the questions:

1. Are there water passages that I will not be able to clean sufficiently?
2. What is the best method to clean the passages and get to cool running?
3. Is there a chance that new rings could remedy the compression problems?
4. Am I looking at Don Quixote's "Impossible dream" that this motor will run reliably again?

Thanks for any input you can send.

Having trouble uploading photo: basically, water ports are heavily clogged with salt around lower cylinder and ends of pistons are pretty black. I have also disassembled the thermostat and it is shot (as expected).

 

[racerone]

These are good motors.------Easy to work on and many parts are readily available.---------Parts are often cheaper than newer motors.-------------Not many special tools required either.----But do a complete evaluation before spending big money.-----------------Inspect coils through hole in flywheel.----Remove lower unit and pull driveshaft out.------Inspect bearing surface just above the lower spline.----Inspect pistons / rings through 2 small covers ( 4 screws each ) on the side of the block.

 

[lindy46]

No Title

My '62 Johnson (essentially same motor) had 65psi on both cylinders when I first got it and ran fine. You may just want to soak the cylinders in penetrating oil to free things up. Replace the thermostat and see if she runs cooler before tearing into her. As racerone says, check the lower unit where the driveshaft meets the pinion gear. The '58-'63 10 hp motors had a lighter weight gearcase than the older ones - the same as the 5.5 and 7.5 hp models. There are no bearings - just a bushing where the driveshaft rides. So the bushing and driveshaft tended to wear out and get pretty scored on well-used motors. Mine needed a new lower case, driveshaft and all the gears. Here's some pics of mine now.

 

[racerone]

The bushings are " bearings " and with the proper oil will last for years and years.-----They can not tolerate wrong oil or water in the oil.

 

[Crosbyman]

dont go tearing into this antique yet...

it quit because it was starving or hot... maybe just hot under the collar.

pull the flywheel and inspect for bad/cracked coils.... points..... condensers. you probably should change everything for peace of mind anyway. easy job

clean the carb ...totally and blow all passages.

​if this engine is anything like the 9.5 ... they are low on compression anyway so try it before assuming the worst !! Compression may simply come back up after a while of soaking/running

replace the impeller !!

 

[GoodMr1967]

Thanks for the input. I'll check out the drive shaft later in the week. The plastic on the coils is definitely cracked: planning to pull flywheel as time allows. Also, was going to pull head to hone and change rings. Pistons aren't scored from what I can see through covers. Glad to hear that parts are available, as this did concern me for the age of the motor.

I finally got the photo to upload. Will have more as the job advances.

Any additional thoughts on water flow, besides a new thermostat?

 

[GoodMr1967]

Thanks for the input. I'll check out the drive shaft, gears and bushings later in the week. The plastic on the coils is definitely cracked: planning to pull flywheel as time allows. Also, was going to pull head to hone and change rings: neither PB Penetrating Catalyst or SeaFoam soaks made any difference in compression. Pistons aren't scored from what I can see through covers. Glad to hear that parts are available, as this did concern me for the age of the motor.

I finally got the photo to upload. Will have more as the job advances.

Any additional thoughts on water flow, besides a new thermostat?

 

[GoodMr1967]

Anyone have input on a good place to find parts for this little motor of mine?

 

[hardwater fisherman]

I think most of what you need is here at IBOATS. Such as seals, ignition parts, carb kits and gaskets. Probably water pump impellers also.

 

[lindy46]

Yeah, that's pretty bad - looks like salt water use without flushing. It'll take some work to clean that all out - use some wire to clean out the small passages and run wire through the openings in the thermostat housing. Once you drop the lower, you can hook up a garden hose to the copper water tube and see if you're getting good flow up to the thermostat housing. Cylinders and pistons don't look too bad. Used parts can be found at AOMCI.org classifieds. Also contact Dan Gano - he has lots of used parts and is a great guy to deal with.

 

[Crosbyman]

most if not all parts are still available from BRP dealers

get all that crud out has much as you can. you are lucky the head bolts can out without to much breaking off !
​ dont worry to much about compression for now. the rings should loosen up after a while keep soaking. you can always pull a side exhaust cover to inspect them or maybe prod them loose. Carful not to break the gaskets on the side ports

you may want to service the fuel pump but i think it may be hard to find a service kit for that model . a small square pump by OMC/BRP ($$$$) can be fitted on and if all else fails I have mounted a Briggs and Straton round pump #808656 ($15) on my motor by taping the port hole and adding a thread nipple to feed vacum pulses to the pump.

​but for now... one step at a time....


Visit the AOMCI site for lots of info and advice ​on this oldy.

​ that 10hp is much like a mid 50s QD with a pump... make certain you clean the filter inside the glass bowl

 

[Crosbyman]

No Title

 

[Crosbyman]

good read

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_QD.htm

 

[GoodMr1967]

RINGS are moving as observed through exhaust covers. Here are some more nice photos. Thanks for all the good advice so far.

 

[Crosbyman]

most folks love cracked coils... it means the engine has not been used much due to faulty ignition. with rings loose just go ahead and redo the electricals

​set the crankshaft cam lobe to its high point marked TOP and adjust the points to .020 . Not the perfect way but it worked for me on 7-8 engines
put 2-3 drop o oil on the cam wick
route all coil wires away from the rotating camshaft to prevent rubbing
​clean the new points acetone or carb cleaner they MUST be spotless
​ if the float is good great..... if not replace or sand it down lightly and reseal with 2-3 coats of crazy glue (lots of discussions on this ... some use airplane DOPE from hobby shops) Dope is a fuel proof clear sealer used for sealing the wings on model planes

​get the book by max E Wawrzyniak CHEAP OUTBOARDS ISBN 978-1-891369-62-9 it has all the knowledge you need to get this great motor purring !!

 

[racerone]

Those condensers look original from factory too.---Must be replaced.

 

[GoodMr1967]

So far, the cost to replace parts is around $240, and I haven't opened the lower unit.

- Coils, condensers, points, plugs/wires
​- Carburetor kit
​- Gasket kit
- Water pump kit
- Fuel pump
- Thermostat

​While it's all apart, is there anything else I might want to replace? Hate to put it all back together, just to have an internal issue. It's worth this expense, right?

 

[Crosbyman]

well assuming innards are ok and lower unit may just need oil...... just try it with new oil and see if it takes water in the LU . even then you can always replace the oil in the L.U. 2-3 times per season until you have more $$$$ to undertake the LU next year


$240 is cheap for a 10hp that will last another 15 20 years (just feed it gaz and oil)

up here in Canada that $240 would only pay the taxes !! for a new 10hp

 

[lindy46]

Make sure to replace the fuel lines and get a new fuel filter.

 

[GoodMr1967]

Speaking of the fuel filter: this motor has the glass bowl with some sort of cylindrical filter (a hard material almost like pumice). I haven't found anything similar online. Can the filter be cleaned or is there a replacement that someone knows of? Or, are they now replaced with some other system now?