Hello world,
After reading thru the forums, I decided to join. Anyone who has experence on my RDS-23 I would greatly appreciate it. I will list the chain of events as complete as possible and let me know your thoughts. Thank you in advance.
I have owned my 1971 StarCraft Arrow 14ft fiberglass runabout for about 20 years. About 10 years ago a 1961 Johnson Seahorse 40 for it (i like vintage stuff) and it came from a private collector, he said it never ran. The bonnet (hood) was stolen which stinks because it was a fully loaded hood with all the Gold insigneas and all, I found a replacement but it was a brush painted cover that looks like it was brush painted. When I got the engine intially I pulled the cylinder head then when it first ran, it ran rough and found the cylinder walls just as new as new could be. Found out the coil was bad and replaced them and this engine ran like a top for 5 years (self employed so maybe 10hrs a summer tops fishing, stored properly every winter). Moving fwd I had to moth ball it 5 years ago due to a divorce and this weekend I started to play with it: I put it in a large tub of water and she would not start, it turned over, just would not pop. After a few times pulling the flywheel to check the points, I cleaned the points really good and it ran. I had problems with the flywheel key and thanks to a thread from 2006 here, I got the p/n and bought 5 new keys Monday morning ( what can I say, I like to be prepaired). With a new water pump installed and fresh lower lube; I dropped it in the water today. It acted like it was dropping a cylinder and was trying to come back but never did. I ran it just off idle for about an hour on the boat in the river. If I gunned the throttleafter extended idle travel it reved up almost like old times, but broke down again to an idle. Idle too is rougher than I remember. This engine allways was a quick start and ran strong.
My first thought was a dirty carb. Sitting all those years has to be bad...So I pulled the carb, disassemble it WOW! it looked brand new (when I moth balled it, I spared no expence When I did 5 years ago), so very, very clean. The only issue I could find was the low speed screw packing was trashed (while running, adjustments had no effect). Now I need a carb rebuild kit for that one packing seal. Ok, so I then removed the fly wheel again, the points look good and so do the coils. I pulled the plugs and the top cylinder is wet but looks new. (i installed new plugs before todays run so they were fresh) The bottom cylinder is black soot but dry. I'm thinking I am dropping a cylinder due to lack of spark or a bad coil. I tried to disconnect the black wire off the points going to the vacumme pod on the left side of the engine facing forward and the other black wire going to the key switch on the other side while on the water. That had no effect. (My thought that it was dropping the a cylinder thru a shorted to ground contact) Also, When I removed the flywheel the brand new key looked shot. My flywheel is awsome but the keyway has a bit more play than I care for. I would buy a new flywheel but finding one with a starter ring and generator belt cog is very tough. Monday I bought a new set of points and condensors, I want to install them with new spark plug wires tomorrow. How about coils ohm out check ok but still be bad? Yes mine are actual Johnson Coils and not a set of cheap copies. I'm slowly paying for the dealers second home in the islands>
with part bills. The two smaller black wires comming from the points where should they actually go? With so many times this thing has been removed, even I am confussed. The spark from each coil hot or cold will jump a 1/4" gap. Also is there adjustment on the coils to the flywheel? I've seen point specs but not one for magnitos (coils) to flywheel gap.
1961 Johnson Seahorse 40
RDS-23 Model#2166431
Fuel 93 oct Johnson XD-50 oil at 50:1 ratio
Compression is about 100psi no diffrence adding oil to the test.
No backfire or popping. (reed check)
My background: I have been working on small engines since I was 12 as a way to make pocket money as a kid. I was a Master GM Auto and truck Technician, ASE Master Auto, Medium duty and Heavy Duty Truck Technician Gas and Diesle and have owned my own equipment repair business for 17 years. Not to brag, but I am a very fourtunate individuals to see and work on alot of engines over my 42 years. Sometimes even the best get stumped and that where I am at now. Very sad because I want my boat running for this weekend and I know this is a simple fix. I just need help finding the simple answer.
Thank you for your help in advance.
After reading thru the forums, I decided to join. Anyone who has experence on my RDS-23 I would greatly appreciate it. I will list the chain of events as complete as possible and let me know your thoughts. Thank you in advance.
I have owned my 1971 StarCraft Arrow 14ft fiberglass runabout for about 20 years. About 10 years ago a 1961 Johnson Seahorse 40 for it (i like vintage stuff) and it came from a private collector, he said it never ran. The bonnet (hood) was stolen which stinks because it was a fully loaded hood with all the Gold insigneas and all, I found a replacement but it was a brush painted cover that looks like it was brush painted. When I got the engine intially I pulled the cylinder head then when it first ran, it ran rough and found the cylinder walls just as new as new could be. Found out the coil was bad and replaced them and this engine ran like a top for 5 years (self employed so maybe 10hrs a summer tops fishing, stored properly every winter). Moving fwd I had to moth ball it 5 years ago due to a divorce and this weekend I started to play with it: I put it in a large tub of water and she would not start, it turned over, just would not pop. After a few times pulling the flywheel to check the points, I cleaned the points really good and it ran. I had problems with the flywheel key and thanks to a thread from 2006 here, I got the p/n and bought 5 new keys Monday morning ( what can I say, I like to be prepaired). With a new water pump installed and fresh lower lube; I dropped it in the water today. It acted like it was dropping a cylinder and was trying to come back but never did. I ran it just off idle for about an hour on the boat in the river. If I gunned the throttleafter extended idle travel it reved up almost like old times, but broke down again to an idle. Idle too is rougher than I remember. This engine allways was a quick start and ran strong.
My first thought was a dirty carb. Sitting all those years has to be bad...So I pulled the carb, disassemble it WOW! it looked brand new (when I moth balled it, I spared no expence When I did 5 years ago), so very, very clean. The only issue I could find was the low speed screw packing was trashed (while running, adjustments had no effect). Now I need a carb rebuild kit for that one packing seal. Ok, so I then removed the fly wheel again, the points look good and so do the coils. I pulled the plugs and the top cylinder is wet but looks new. (i installed new plugs before todays run so they were fresh) The bottom cylinder is black soot but dry. I'm thinking I am dropping a cylinder due to lack of spark or a bad coil. I tried to disconnect the black wire off the points going to the vacumme pod on the left side of the engine facing forward and the other black wire going to the key switch on the other side while on the water. That had no effect. (My thought that it was dropping the a cylinder thru a shorted to ground contact) Also, When I removed the flywheel the brand new key looked shot. My flywheel is awsome but the keyway has a bit more play than I care for. I would buy a new flywheel but finding one with a starter ring and generator belt cog is very tough. Monday I bought a new set of points and condensors, I want to install them with new spark plug wires tomorrow. How about coils ohm out check ok but still be bad? Yes mine are actual Johnson Coils and not a set of cheap copies. I'm slowly paying for the dealers second home in the islands>
with part bills. The two smaller black wires comming from the points where should they actually go? With so many times this thing has been removed, even I am confussed. The spark from each coil hot or cold will jump a 1/4" gap. Also is there adjustment on the coils to the flywheel? I've seen point specs but not one for magnitos (coils) to flywheel gap.1961 Johnson Seahorse 40
RDS-23 Model#2166431
Fuel 93 oct Johnson XD-50 oil at 50:1 ratio
Compression is about 100psi no diffrence adding oil to the test.
No backfire or popping. (reed check)
My background: I have been working on small engines since I was 12 as a way to make pocket money as a kid. I was a Master GM Auto and truck Technician, ASE Master Auto, Medium duty and Heavy Duty Truck Technician Gas and Diesle and have owned my own equipment repair business for 17 years. Not to brag, but I am a very fourtunate individuals to see and work on alot of engines over my 42 years. Sometimes even the best get stumped and that where I am at now. Very sad because I want my boat running for this weekend and I know this is a simple fix. I just need help finding the simple answer.
Thank you for your help in advance.
