1959 Sea King Kill Switch

[micmor64]

I have the 35HP up and running pretty well now. I have found though, that idling down and choking does not kill the motor (guess it might be running too well?). The electric choke seems to be working fine and is needed to start the engine. Occasionally, when at low idle It'll cough and stop but not very reliably. To stop, I have been disconnecting the fuel line and waiting. I don't wish at this time to pull the flywheel unless absolutely necessary to gain access to the points, so... my first thought was to connect the kill switch to the over-rev vacuum switch but I seem to recall that that shorted only one cylinder and doesn't kill the motor. So my second thought was perhaps connect it to the mercury switch that limits the throttle position for start up (does that short both point sets?). Is there a better location that I'm not aware of to make the connection?

I had to go back to work and now don't have a lot of time for trial and error, so would like to do it as best as I can the first time.

All ideas/comments as to the best alternative or perhaps there is an even better place than I am thinking of would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Mike

Mike

 

[racerone]

Pictures would help.-----And are there 2 black wires coming from under the magneto plate ??

 

[micmor64]

i am somewhat technically challenged as far as Pic's go, my digital camera is very outdated and I have no smart phone, so......
As for whether there are two wires, i'll have to find some time in the morning to pull the covers and see.

 

[440roadrunner]

Some older models of OMC based engines used the choke to kill, it's written right on the dash plate. Might be idling too high or something wrong with the choke linkage at the carb, which is spring loaded. If the engine is throttled up enough, the engine carb throat suction can overcome the spring loaded butterflies.

You could add a mag kill with some work if it's not there. Basically a well insulated and carefully routed wire connected to each set of points. You bring them out and the kill switch is like a starter button connected between them. You push the button and the two wires are interconnected. When one set of points is closed, that set grounds out the opposite set which is open and dead it goes.

 

[micmor64]

I spent a few moments trying to trace the 2 black wires coming from under the Mag Plate (they are clamped to the bottom front edge of the plate). One goes to the over-rev vacuum switch, the other appears to enter into the harness coming out the starboard side of the motor.

I don't have the original dash plate/controls/manuals for this motor and there has been some wiring replaced due to age... so...... i'm trying my best to acquaint myself with it. In most respects it's quite similar to the Johnny-Rudes I've played with in the past.

I appreciate the wiring suggestion, I think I'll go that route as the linkages all seem fine and the engine is idleing very nicely and very low. If I make small adjustments to the Idle Screw (a couple degrees either way) and the engine begins to stammer and is very difficult to start. I'll be working on it again in the next few days and see if I can't get the idle even lower.