1959 Evinrude Lark 35516 Oil Retainer Housing and Seal/O-ring

sigfield

Seaman
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Apr 29, 2012
Messages
54
Oil's been leaking from the lower unit since I got the motor about a year and a half ago. I replaced the seals 2 weeks ago with a seal kit and filled it with Quicksilver SAE 90 marine gear oil. I started it a few days ago in a tank. It started leaking right away. I removed the lower unit today and made a diy pressure tester and tested it. Lots of soap bubbles around the outside of the Retainer Housing but not the shaft seal.

I read these posts about this subject and there was some discussion about the oil retainer housing:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...5hp-lower-unit
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...nson-30hp-boat



Thanks in advance. Jeff
 

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F_R

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I'd rather think the leak is at the ends of the spaghetti seal (??)
 

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sigfield

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Chinewalker I used Permatex. 3m Scotch Weld 847 isn't available locally. I can get it here by Monday guess I'll order that and a new seal kit with the spagetti.
 

racerone

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Did you by any chance install that housing the wrong way around ??---Me thinks the 2 holes should be on the outside !!
 

F_R

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Did you by any chance install that housing the wrong way around ??---Me thinks the 2 holes should be on the outside !!


Heh, I thought that looked odd. Yes the two holes face the outside and the seal lip and spring face inside.
 

sigfield

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Apr 29, 2012
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Yep! I turned it around. the ends were square and just enough overhang. I couldn't get the Scotch Weld 847 locally but an out of town marina recommended Permatex 2. That worked no leaks with a pressure test. But now, after a carb kit, the carb still leaks gas out of the throat and won't start, it won't even turn over. I'll be reading some of your stuff tonight. Thanks for all the help. Jeff
 

sigfield

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Thanks Lindy46. Figured out why it wouldn't turn over. where the wiring harness plugs in to the motor, the ground where the big wing nut screws in was corroded. Tried to start it this morning. There's spark but not fire, plugs are dry, a little fuel leaking out of carb throat but not like before. Also before it quit turning over because of the bad ground the plugs were wet. I'll look at the instructions on setting the float and see if its upside down.
 

F_R

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Have the ignition coils been replaced? If not, they need to be. They are the great deceiver---spark but not run.
 

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sigfield

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Here's some pics. Not sure if I have the right gasket on the pickup tube. Or upside down or backward.
 

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F_R

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Float is set too high and not dropping down. Should be parallel with the carb body when upside down and only gravity supporting it. Should drop down some when right side up. Nozzle gasket looks OK but it actually isn't even needed with that carb.
 

oldboat1

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Maybe I'm upside down today, but I think the float is installed upside down. The adjustment tab should point toward the float jet and needle.

Insufficient float drop, currently, as indicated. Set it level with the edge of the inverted top, or raised slightly on the outside end (end away from hinge).
 

sigfield

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This is the best I could get on the float. without breaking something eventually, lots of bending. Very difficult. Maybe next time it'll be easier, hopte there is no next time hope it works!
 

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sigfield

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oldboat1 do these pics look like the float is upside down? I tried to turn it over because I couldn't get it to work. It wouldn't go that way I don't think. We'll see soon and let you know.
 

lindy46

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Float is NOT upside down, but bend the float arm a little bit "up" (as seen in photo #! with the carb inverted) to make it parallel with the carb body, or a little higher. I usually set them a wee bit "higher" than parallel (with the carb inverted.) That insures fuel shut off before it overflows the bowl.
 
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