1959 35hp Evinrude lark solenoid

[jcroyle]

Greetings all.
I believe I need to replace the OEM solenoid on my motor. Starter won't engage. If I jump the solenoid the starter engages so I don't think it's the neutral switch. It was working fine, then I took it out the other day and after an hour on the lake I pulled up to a slip and turned off the motor while my wife got the trailer. Couldn't start, no click. I'm getting the right voltage when I have someone turn the key. So which solenoid is the correct one to replace it? I see lots of Johnson/Evinrude parts available just not sure if I require a specific one.

Any help?

 

[F_R]

It could be the solenoid, I suppose. But probably not. I suggest further testing. Does the boat still have the original junction box, etc?

EDIT: Correct solenoid is part #378444. Do NOT run out and buy a durn car (Ford) solenoid. They are not the same.

 

[jcroyle]

It could be the solenoid, I suppose. But probably not. I suggest further testing. Does the boat still have the original junction box, etc?

Yes everything is original. What other tests can I do to narrow it down?

 

[jcroyle]

So I get voltage across the two ignition terminals when I turn the key but no voltage on the starter side large cable. 12.9 v on the terminals.

Continuity between the small terminals doesn't drop to zero like it should though.

 

[F_R]

So what you are saying is that you are connecting your voltmeter to the two small solenoid terminals, and seeing a voltage when you turn the key, is that correct? Try this: Check voltage from one of the small terminals to ground. Then check voltage from the other small terminal to ground. With key turned to start, you should see battery voltage on one and zero V on the other and solenoid should click. One not going to zero? Check the mercury switch on the throttle. That is by far the most common cause of "bad" solenoids, which aren't.

 

[jcroyle]

So what you are saying is that you are connecting your voltmeter to the two small solenoid terminals, and seeing a voltage when you turn the key, is that correct? Try this: Check voltage from one of the small terminals to ground. Then check voltage from the other small terminal to ground. With key turned to start, you should see battery voltage on one and zero V on the other and solenoid should click. One not going to zero? Check the mercury switch on the throttle. That is by far the most common cause of "bad" solenoids, which aren't.

Hmmm ok I'll try that. Have to find that switch. I have the PDF of the manual. So it shouldn't be that hard.
Edit:
Is it the cut out switch in the manual?

 

[racerone]

There is a " mercury switch " , 2 little silvery tubes.----If throttle is advanced too far it will not crank over I believe.

 

[jcroyle]

These?

 

[racerone]

Correct.

 

[jcroyle]

OK, now I just have to figure out how to get to them an swap them out. I assume I can simply bypass them to test if they are the problem.

 

[racerone]

Some simple testing beats guess work every time and saves $$$

 

[jcroyle]

Some simple testing beats guess work every time and saves $$$

Agreed. What's the best way to test? Jump wire between them?

 

[racerone]

Find the wiring diagram at -----maxrules -----mastertechmarine----Then do the checks on your motor.

 

[F_R]

There are two switches (tubes) on one bracket. Only one has anything to do with starting.

Test One: Retard throttle to slow position. Does it crank now? If yes, that was the problem.

Test two: Ground the wire leading to the switch. Does it crank now? If yes, switch (or wires) is bad. If no, repeat with grounding the other wire (you may have been grounding the wrong wire).

 

[jcroyle]

So what you are saying is that you are connecting your voltmeter to the two small solenoid terminals, and seeing a voltage when you turn the key, is that correct? Try this: Check voltage from one of the small terminals to ground. Then check voltage from the other small terminal to ground. With key turned to start, you should see battery voltage on one and zero V on the other and solenoid should click. One not going to zero? Check the mercury switch on the throttle. That is by far the most common cause of "bad" solenoids, which aren't.

Testing voltage from the battery grnd to the large battery terminal on the solenoid gives 13.5v .
Nothing on the first ignition wire until I turn the key. Then 12.9v on it, and on the second small terminal 12.5 v with the key on. No clicking.

 

[jcroyle]

There are two switches (tubes) on one bracket. Only one has anything to do with starting.

Test One: Retard throttle to slow position. Does it crank now? If yes, that was the problem.

Test two: Ground the wire leading to the switch. Does it crank now? If yes, switch (or wires) is bad. If no, repeat with grounding the other wire (you may have been grounding the wrong wire).

Throttle in slow, gear in neutral, mercury switches in the up position, nothing.

I assume that the one with the single wire is the one to ground? According to the schematic, the one with two has one that goes to the cutoff and another grounded to the frame of the engine.

 

[F_R]

We both seem to be confusing each other.

Is this the diagram you are using? Look at the solenoid. Notice that one white wire runs from the key switch to one of the small solenoid terminals.

The other small solenoid terminal has a white wire leading to one of the mercury switches. That is the wire that must be grounded either by the mercury switch at "slow" OR by you as a test. If it cranks when the key is turned, and with that wire grounded, the solenoid and everything up to it are ok, and the fault lies between the solenoid and mercury switch.

BTW, the existing ground wire on the mercury switch pair is connected to the mounting bracket and serves to provide a ground return to both mercury switches.

I repeat, the vacuum cut-out switch and second mercury switch have nothing to do with cranking.

 

[jcroyle]

We're on the same page. The first one should complete the ground to the starter. Just trying to figure out how to ground it. I assume I can bypass it by completing the circuit from the small post to the ground on the starter.

Which works like a charm. So it's the mercury switch and not the solenoid. The outboard God's are wise and benevolent. Now how the hell do I replace it. I can't seem to find anything like these online.

 

[racerone]

0377363 should be at any dealer that knows a bit about older motors.----Shows 10 in stock online too !!

 

[F_R]

Taking a closer look at the picture in post #8, I think I see the problem. The wire is burned off the little post on one of the mercury switches, right?