1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

[vcaptain]

Hello all, I am finally re-attempting to get this motor running. The wiring was a mess at the keyed switch from the beginning, the wiring in the motor and the solenoid box looks to be untouched. The store was out of red battery leads, so I bought two black ones, The black on the right side of the solenoid is POS - don't want anyone to think I doubled up the ground.

The key has three positions, off- run and start (springs back to run). The off position is a black lead that runs to the ground in the solenoid box, the run terminal is empty, nothing connected. The start leads to white which goes to the solenoid. Then there is a green (12ga wire and a red wire on the next terminal, the 12ga green runs to the main power lug on the solenoid, the red to a push button switch that controls the choke, the choke button works.

So, my question is, does anyone know what should be connected to the run postilion terminal on the switch? Does everything else look right? The started does work, I jumped it.

Thank you very much for any help you can offer!

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Here is your wiring diagram.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Thank you! I'm going to pull that solenoid junction box apart and clean it out and check the connections.

I still can't tell what wire would connect to the empty RUN position terminal, I see both blacks, and the white and green power, but nothing else. Also, from the diagram, I don't think my wires are going to ground, I'll know for sure tomorrow, but I'd guess to the magneto, I just can't see where they go with pulling some stuff out.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

You have your keyswitch wired wrong from what I can see.

To start, do you have a proper key switch? There should be two M terminals on it. A black wire goes to each of these. These black wires run to the points, 1 of the 2 through the cutout switch.

The green wire from your choke switch goes to the large post on the solenoid shared with the POS from the battery.

The last wire on the keyswitch, the white, comes from the S (START) post on the keyswitch to the small post of the solenoid beside the aforementioned large post with the POS battery and choke.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

You have your keyswitch wired wrong from what I can see.

To start, do you have a proper key switch? There should be two M terminals on it. A black wire goes to each of these. These black wires run to the points, 1 of the 2 through the cutout switch.

The green wire from your choke switch goes to the large post on the solenoid shared with the POS from the battery.

The last wire on the keyswitch, the white, comes from the S (START) post on the keyswitch to the small post of the solenoid beside the aforementioned large post with the POS battery and choke.

I'm going to try and clean the back of the key switch, the way it is I can see no markings. Thanks for the help, I'll update tomorrow

 

[F_R]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Wire it exactly like the diagram shows it. You have extra wires attached to it now, I don't know why. The "A" or Accessory terminal is not used on this motor.

If you want to check the switch with a meter, there should be continuity (0 ohms) across the two "M" terminals when key is in the OFF position, and across the "B" or Bat and "S" when turned to the START position. There will be continuity across "B" and "A" when key is in ON position or Start position, but it doesn't matter because "A" is not used.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

IMO, with the amount of corrosion on the switch, solenoid, and the visible running "repairs" to the entire system (probably all cause and effect), you'd be ahead of the game to do a rewire and replace those two components. Pull everything out of that box and clean it up at the same time.
Then you are back on level ground.
It's usually the stuff you can't see that causes the problems...especially in something like that switch.


Just about every electrical thread in here has responses and advice that harp on the need for clean, tight connections.
They are 100% correct.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

I got the switch out of the boat and got it cleaned and tested with a multi-meter, it seems to be working fine. I also removed the starting solenoid. Tim, you were right, as soon as I touched the blue wire it broke, and the heavy duty positive red wire has deteriorated.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

The blue wire is only used if you have the optional generator kit installed.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

The blue wire is only used if you have the optional generator kit installed.

I noticed it wasn't hooked to anything, same for the yellow.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Yellow (and brown) are generator wires also.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Yellow (and brown) are generator wires also.

Thank you for the information, can I assume a generator would charge the battery?? If so, any advice on adding that on? Is it possible?

Also, i was wondering, have you had or do you now own one of these motors? Any tips or suggestions for a new vintage motor owner would be appreciated. I've already sourced ethanol free gas to run it, as I think ethanol is basically the definition of evil to all engines.

Should I inspect the lower gear and impeller before a test start? I tried to get it apart, but without a special tool it doesn't seem feasible. It turns over fine, prop moves in gear on pull start. I still need to check the oil level.

Assuming oil is ok, should I bother to drain/disassemble? Or just try and crank it?? Oil level being ok and all. Compression is at 110+/- 105 on both cylinders, after freeing one ring.

Thanks for the help!

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

I have one or two Big Twins. Frank has probably tinkered with one once or twice in his life! lol

My advice. Don't bother with the generator. They do charge the battery. However, acquiring all the components you will need to use it will be troublesome and expensive. Cheaper to charge the battery a couple times a year, or get a solar charger. That is what I do, the solar panel (10 bucks) trickles the battery while at the dock.

Drain the gear oil and put fresh in. Use new crush washers when re installing the drain and vent screw. Then after a couple outings, check the oil for water.

I always change the impeller on any new motor to me. It is a critical piece, and is cheap enough to do frequently. I would suggest about ever 3 years or so. Takes under an hour to do, we can help with that.

I would also change all the fuel lines if they have not been done. Compression is good, so you have a healthy powerhead.

Have you inspected the ignition yet?

I would run her on a 24:1 fuelil ratio.

 

[racerone]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

No special tools required to install a new impeller.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Here is your parts manual.

http://www.*****************/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1959&hp=35&model=35517

Forgot to mention, all you need to do a water pump is a socket set and a standard screwdriver. Other items that are nice are OMC gasket sealing compound, 3M 847, and some marine grease.

Along with the impeller, a new grommet for the impeller housing, and a new o ring for the top of the driveshaft are recommended before re installing.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Thank you for the information, can I assume a generator would charge the battery?? If so, any advice on adding that on? Is it possible?

Also, i was wondering, have you had or do you now own one of these motors? Any tips or suggestions for a new vintage motor owner would be appreciated. I've already sourced ethanol free gas to run it, as I think ethanol is basically the definition of evil to all engines.

Should I inspect the lower gear and impeller before a test start? I tried to get it apart, but without a special tool it doesn't seem feasible. It turns over fine, prop moves in gear on pull start. I still need to check the oil level.

Assuming oil is ok, should I bother to drain/disassemble? Or just try and crank it?? Oil level being ok and all. Compression is at 110+/- 105 on both cylinders, after freeing one ring.

Thanks for the help!

Yeah, I've personally owned several of them. I've also worked on hundreds (thousands?) of them.

I agree, don't bother with the generator unless battery charging is a major inconvenience. They are nice, but expensive.

It sounds like you already have your mind made up concerning Ethanol, and it would be futile to say any more on that subject. Except I get all my gas at the Cheapo station up on the corner and use it in all my engines from truck to weedeater. Have never had a minute's problem. Oil is a bigger issue. Use only TC-W3 certified outboard oil. 24:1 is the official mix.

It would be ok to test start it with the old impeller, but I'd certainly replace it before a serious run if you don't know it's history. You can cook a motor in less than a minute with a blown impeller.

That motor is not critical on gear oil, but keep it clean and water free and full.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Thank you all for the help, it's amazing that so many people have knowledge of a 1959 motor.

From the manual it looks like I can get to the impeller from that middle section in the lower unit. I thought I had to remove the prop and the gears within, thankfully that isn't the case (yet).

I'll get it apart after we thaw out, I'm in Atlanta and we just got hit with an inch of ice.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

I'd already been working on outboards for 4 years when that motor was new.

You have to remove the lower rear outer shell from the midsection (whole bunch of screws) to access one of the bolts that holds the lower unit on. Shift rod disconnect is accessed through the little windows half way down. One behind the other.

No need to get into the gears section.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

I'm trying to get to the impeller, I got all the bolts out, including the one in the exhaust section but it isn't letting loose, does the motor need to be in gear or neutral or reverse or something? I don't want to force it, any tips or advice on getting it apart?

Thanks!

 

[racerone]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Gear position does not matter.----You need to remove the rear cowling to find one bolt.-----Shift rod nust be disconnected through window/s on the side of the motor.