1958 Fastwin 18 lower unit won‘t drop

AndyW.

Cadet
Joined
Sep 4, 2020
Messages
9
I want to change the impeller on this motor , removed the bolt on the coupler , the 5 bolts on the lower unit but it drops just an inch . When I twist it the flywheel moves so the shaft seems to get stuck

any tips on what to do ?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,722
The shaft is NOT stuck I say.----If it moved an inch.------Try a little more effort I say.------Can you see the driveshaft moving inside the exhaust housing ??
 

AndyW.

Cadet
Joined
Sep 4, 2020
Messages
9
Ok you were right , it came down with a bit more force but the shaft came off the lower unit !!!! Not good I suppose
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,722
Make an adapter to use a slide hammer tp pull driveshaft out of the crankshaft spline.---
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,219
The last guy that had it apart left the o-ring off the drive shaft splines, now it is rusted together. I hate it when that happens. Could even be terminally rusted. Word to the wise----don't ignore the o-ring!!!!!
 

AndyW.

Cadet
Joined
Sep 4, 2020
Messages
9
Uh .. I don’t really have access to more advanced tools, actually this is the 1st time I try to work on my outboards.
just in case , I have found this online , would it be an option ?
„ So there is a back door to this problem. Tut the key for the water pump back in the drive shaft, which is still sticking out of the exhaust housing. File a slot in the top of the water pump housing, just big enough to allow it to fit over the water pump key on the shaft. Then assemble the pump as you normally would, minus the drive shaft, but line up the impeller key slot with the slot you filed in the housing. Turn the motor over enough to clock the pump key on the drive shaft with the slot you filed in the pump housing. Then, install the lower unit right back over the drive shaft, just the same way it came off. If your impeller pin is round, this is easy. If you have a T-shaped impeller key, it helps to put the key in with a dab of epoxy or red Loctite, and allow it to cure, so the key won’t twist when you’re installing the lower unit „
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,219
Uh .. I don’t really have access to more advanced tools, actually this is the 1st time I try to work on my outboards.
just in case , I have found this online , would it be an option ?
„ So there is a back door to this problem. Tut the key for the water pump back in the drive shaft, which is still sticking out of the exhaust housing. File a slot in the top of the water pump housing, just big enough to allow it to fit over the water pump key on the shaft. Then assemble the pump as you normally would, minus the drive shaft, but line up the impeller key slot with the slot you filed in the housing. Turn the motor over enough to clock the pump key on the drive shaft with the slot you filed in the pump housing. Then, install the lower unit right back over the drive shaft, just the same way it came off. If your impeller pin is round, this is easy. If you have a T-shaped impeller key, it helps to put the key in with a dab of epoxy or red Loctite, and allow it to cure, so the key won’t twist when you’re installing the lower unit „
Yes, that will work, and I have done it. BUT the original problem still exists. That is the splines will continue to rust away, till one day they will be gone and it will be dead in the water. How long?? I don't know. How's your luck?
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,410
Have you tried soaking the top splines with some release agent by flipping the engine upside down and sending the lubricant down to the upside down powerhead via the drive shaft and wait patiently a few days.... then retry

if it does not work... flip it over again and resoak the splines by dripping the lubricant down to the powerhead ...rear end

retry in a few days
 

AndyW.

Cadet
Joined
Sep 4, 2020
Messages
9
I will do that ! Don‘t have so money options not having access to a slide hammer or other pro tools
 

tblshur

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
688
make a long spray nozzle for penertrating oil slightly peck up on shaft to break loose not to hard clamp a piece of chain to shaft use hammer head for slap hammer just my thought you probably have better thoughts
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Clamp a vice grip to the drive shaft and beat on that. Also a good penatrating oil is a 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Agree with boobie. A piece of leather or rubber will allow a better grip and protect the shaft from the vise grip jaws.
 

AndyW.

Cadet
Joined
Sep 4, 2020
Messages
9
Ok I finally got a recommended rust solvent and tried the above mentioned. Flipping the engine over and sending the solvent down . No results yet after 3 days ... is there a seal that would prevent the rust remover to get to the point where it should go ? Hard to take a picture of it but it seems it is running down and gathers next to the drive shaft . Or am I too unpatient?🤔EABB1486-EBEF-4693-ABFC-4927F056C604.jpeg
 
Last edited:

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,722
There is supposed to be an o-ring in a groove at the top of the drive shaft.-----Grease is to be used on the spline.----O-ring keeps water out.-------Many motors were not maintained properly.
 

AndyW.

Cadet
Joined
Sep 4, 2020
Messages
9
So how will it gets to the spline - I thought I should spray the shaft and let it run down
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,722
At this time you do not know if the o-ring is actually there !!-----Many were left out by novice owners !
 
Top