1958 evinrude lark 35hp

[jdx6i]

Re: 1958 evinrude lark 35hp

its out on the last one not..??...

 

[SlappyWhite]

Re: 1958 evinrude lark 35hp

This chart may help with the engine height. I would still suggest you keep it level, or slightly higher than the keel of the boat for best performance. The water intake will be well submerged at low speeds as the boat is naturally stern heavy and the prop will force water up into the water pump at speed, so there is no need for the motor to be too deep in the water. You'll also notice that most engines tend to use jackplates to raise the motor rather than lower it in order to achieve ideal performance, particularly on the top end. Some racers even use shims as small as 1/4" to raise the motor to just the right height. I certainly noticed better performance from my 20 hp when I raised it a few inches from the stock location.


EDIT: Can't seem to access my old pics and/or add new files? Anybody else having this issue :/

EDIT EDIT: here they are


View attachment 141259View attachment 141258

The Cav plate in the photo appears to be Lower than the keel

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 1958 evinrude lark 35hp

Well, it wouldn't make sence to set the cavitation plate above the keel, when the manufacturers of the boats build them to take short shaft motors that would put the cavitation below, now would it? The people who build these things know what a short shaft motor length is and how tall to build the transome. If your cavitation plate is not setting right with the keel of the boat, then you might need to do some research on your boat and find out exactly what motor is intended for it. If your boat is infact a 1958 model, then you can pretty well guess that the motors of that year and size should be explored to kit up to it. If a boat is in it's 50+ year age, then I would lean towards the lower end of the horsepower rating, just so you don't gun it on a nice day in the lake, and end up with the transome coming off the boat.:facepalm:

 

[jdx6i]

Re: 1958 evinrude lark 35hp

Just to note lol I redone the whole boat so there i kno nothen is comin off it.. the back is 3ins which and 6 layers of fiberglass.. I've put a lot into this boat and I didn't want the back to just fall off so I made sure it will stay.. I have no worries on that one. The whole boat weight is about 600. Not heavy at all

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1958 evinrude lark 35hp

The Cav plate in the photo appears to be Lower than the keel

Correct, but it should be raised to within the two yellow lines on the right. You want the plate ABOVE the keel to reduce drag and increase performance on the top end. Remember that that the boat is always stern heavy and therefore sits even lower in the water than it appears. The leg is sufficiently submerged to pump water at low and idle speeds. Once underway, the prop forces water up to the water pump to cool the motor. The plate should just barely break the surface of the water when on plane at WOT, any lower will simply create excess drag. There's a reason they build "jack" plates and not "lowering" (Jill?) plates, generally speaking. Unfortunately, there's no magic formula to get it all dialed in. It doesn't help that motors from this era were built with sort of an odd leg length; too long to be a short shaft, too short to be a long shaft. As a result, most folks, myself included, raise the motor until the anti-vent plate is level, or slightly higher than the keel. In fact, some folks use the rule that the prop sahft should be level with the keep of the boat, which again places the plate a few inches above the keel as I previously described. You'll simply need to to lots of trial and error to find which combo works best for your set up. Remember: Less is more. The less of the leg drags in the water the better your performance will be.