1957 Ski Champ - project 5 Cent Deposit

[Joe L. Bachs]

I floated the Champ awhile back, I have some rivets to tighten up or replace. Almost all of the seepage is right at the stern near the drain plug. I also finished stripping all the paint and moved it into my shop. Once I had it inside I removed the entire top skin of the boat. I wanted to check for any rot that wasn't visible and to replace the bow floatation foam, which had become a mouse apartment complex at some point in the last 4 years (and had a very powerful odor). What do you guys typically use for flotation foam when replacing the factory stuff? Here are some pictures of my progress.

IMG-1376-2 by
Stripped hull
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFzNWp] IMG-1418-2 by
I set the windshield back on just get an idea of the final look. I'm going to go bare aluminum on the hull. I'm still trying to decide if I want to polish the hull or leave it a more user friendly "brushed" finish.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFAR2L] 59338861555--F3FCE4DA-7411-4D80-8127-F373AD40FC5D by
Inside
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFzNX6] IMG-1530 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFAR37] IMG-1534 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFAR1t] IMG-1535 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140780741@N06/

 

[Joe L. Bachs]

I went and pulled the 50hp Johnson hydraulic tilt/trim motor I had purchased years ago from the "donor" it came with. Having the boat and the motor side by side I'm worried the motor might be too much for the champ. Opinions? I'm pretty sure the hull is rated for 50hp.
Also any advice on replacement floatation foam would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Joe L. Bachs]

I know it's been awhile since I've posted, but I've been chipping away at the ski-champ when I have the time. So far I replaced the bow floatation foam, removed the transom board, got the broken and glued in plug out of the auto bailer, sanded down all the wood work and treated all the wood with coat of clear penetrating resin to get it ready for varnish. There was also a crack that ran from side to side in the back panel of the front seat. Next up is varnish and a new transom. Here are some pictures of the progress.

New bow foam
IMG-1758 by

Before and after of the crack in the front seat.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDjMxT] IMG-1298 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDimG1] IMG-1760 by

Everything sanded
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDimHo] IMG-1762 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDfBEL] IMG-1761 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDjMyz] IMG-1773 by

After the penetrating resin
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDfBGp] 60522532606--4A3C3867-359C-41C9-96F1-F66E2CBC4030 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDimKC] 60522565313--5D3CB83C-CEA5-4A62-9CC8-A6910D72E903 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDjMyQ] IMG-1782 by

Transom and auto bailer plug removed
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDnxjF] IMG-1810 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iDjMqe] IMG-1811 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140780741@N06/

 

[classiccat]

Wow man...not something you see every day! Very cool build! :thumb:

 

[Watermann]

Nice work Joe, looking real good :thumb:

 

[Joe L. Bachs]

Thanks guys! It's a great old boat I'm glad to be making some progress after letting it sit for so long. I'm working on the varnishing right now and then it's time to start putting it back together. I've got a couple questions that I was hoping I could get some help/advice on from you guys. Thanks in advance for any input.

1) Before I put the nose back together, I need to run the wires for the bow light. I know little to nothing about automotive or marine wiring. How do I figure out what gauge wire to use? I'll be using an LED bow light if that makes a difference.

2) Replacing the transom is one of the next items on the to do list. The factory transom is an 1.5" thick single piece of oak. I'd like to build the new one beefier than factory because the motor I'll be using is at the very upper limit of what the boat is rated for. My plan is to go with 2" thick oak and extend the transom down an extra 4" lower than factory. I figure the new transom would weigh close to twice as much as the old one, which was 11 lbs. Do you guys think I need to worry about the added stern weight of the beefier transom? I was also thinking of filling in the valley in the top of the transom, to better accommodate the mounting brackets of the modern motor. Would that be a bad idea? My concern was that it would also raise the motor and maybe mess with the center of gravity or handling. Here is a quick template I've been using as a visual for myself. The dotted lines would be the proposed changes.

IMG-1809 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140780741@N06/

 

[classiccat]

1) Before I put the nose back together, I need to run the wires for the bow light. I know little to nothing about automotive or marine wiring. How do I figure out what gauge wire to use? I'll be using an LED bow light if that makes a difference.

2) Replacing the transom is one of the next items on the to do list. The factory transom is an 1.5" thick single piece of oak. I'd like to build the new one beefier than factory because the motor I'll be using is at the very upper limit of what the boat is rated for. My plan is to go with 2" thick oak and extend the transom down an extra 4" lower than factory. I figure the new transom would weigh close to twice as much as the old one, which was 11 lbs. Do you guys think I need to worry about the added stern weight of the beefier transom? I was also thinking of filling in the valley in the top of the transom, to better accommodate the mounting brackets of the modern motor. Would that be a bad idea? My concern was that it would also raise the motor and maybe mess with the center of gravity or handling. Here is a quick template I've been using as a visual for myself. The dotted lines would be the proposed changes.

1) an LED bow light will range from 3-5W...which would equate to just under 0.5A (5W / 12V). 16awg tinned marine wire would be more than adequate (that's still 10x more than its rating if the run is kept <=15'). Don't use the hull as a conductor...run a 16awg negative wire for that LED as well.

2) I don't think I would sweat the weight too much... would 2" fit in any of the stern brackets? The mounting height is really dependent on the shaft length and the rule of thumb is that the anti-ventilation plate be level with the bottom of the hull without any setback / jackplates.

 

[Watermann]

I don't think an extra 10 Lbs or so would be an issue.