1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

[corbett79]

I recently acquired this motor and am having some problems keeping it running. It had been in storage for many years until now, and it was serviced just before I got it. I was told that the head gasket was replaced, but not sure about anything else (waiting for a call back to inquire). I can get this motor initially started easily (couple of pulls), and it runs well in neutral and at high RPMs. Whenever I lower the RPMs or attempt to switch gears, the motor dies. The more this happens, the harder it becomes to start the motor, and eventually there is no hope in getting it to fire. Come the next day, I can start it up easily again. I'd love to get this motor running for my jon boat, and eventually plan to convert the motor to have a fuel pump, so I appreciate all feedback.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Sounds like bad coils. Remove the rewind starter. On top of the flywheel is an inspection plate. Remove it. Under the flywheel you will see the coils. If they are discoloured or cracked you need new ones.

Post back once you check the coils.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Here are some bad coils.

 

[corbett79]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Thanks for the quick response. I'll be sure to check this out tomorrow morning.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Runs fine in neutral, but stalls in gear. Sounds to me like the shock spring in the lower unit may have snapped. The lower unit has a spring and shaft arrangement that is supposed slip should you hit something with the prop. This stub shaft can break, and when it does, it binds up when the motor has a load. If the coils check out, I would check the lower unit. Being that the motor was just serviced, I would hope the servicer checked the coils already...
- Scott

 

[F_R]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

I recently acquired this motor and am having some problems keeping it running. It had been in storage for many years until now, and it was serviced just before I got it. I was told that the head gasket was replaced, but not sure about anything else (waiting for a call back to inquire). I can get this motor initially started easily (couple of pulls), and it runs well in neutral and at high RPMs. Whenever I lower the RPMs or attempt to switch gears, the motor dies. The more this happens, the harder it becomes to start the motor, and eventually there is no hope in getting it to fire. Come the next day, I can start it up easily again. I'd love to get this motor running for my jon boat, and eventually plan to convert the motor to have a fuel pump, so I appreciate all feedback.

So it gets worse as the day goes by and heals itself the next day? COILS! Those coils have a 100% failure rate. Unless they have already been replaced, they are bad......guaranteed.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

My vote is for coils too but recommend that you take them out, regardless of what they look like, and take them to your local OMC/Bombardier dealer to be tested. I have had coils that showed no cracking and a generally good appearance turn out to be bad and, since most dealers won't charge you for the testing, its a no lose exercise. If they turn out to be good, you have positively eliminated them as a problem and if they are bad, you can buy new ones on the spot.

 

[corbett79]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

I'm a rookie, so I appreciate your help. I can't seem to get the top open to clearly view the coils. Am I doing something wrong? From what I can tell, the coils (and everything inside) appear to be newer...this is just from what I can see through the hole in the top. If the coils are in pretty good shape, what do you all think?

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

My x-ray vision isn't what it used to be. Could you get a closer shot? Turn the flywheel clockwise until you can see the first coil then look at the second.

 

[corbett79]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Here is one coil, and the other looks the same. I tried to remove the nut on top (to get a better view), but it is extremely tight. I didn't want to break something. Will this allow the top to open?

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

That's the flywheel nut. You need a strap wrench and a flywheel or harmonic balancer style puller to remove the flywheel. I've never seen red coils before. Someone whos been around longer may have. I'd suspect they are old replacements and need to go. Since the coils don't look obviously bad and it fired right up I'm sure the mechanic figured it was fine.

I don't think its the shock absorber in the lower unit. Usually when they go it siezes everything. It sure sounds like coils to me. I'd replace them. Cost is about $40/pair.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

I've seen red ones before. Some kind of aftermarket replacements. But even if they are good, there remains a possibility that you have other problems under the flywheel. Dirty/misadjusted breaker points. Spark plug wires could be arcing through. And of course, we could all be off-base. How's the compression?

Yes you need some tools to get in there and check it out thoroughly. And a good service manual if you are inexperienced. Even doctors have to learn somewhere.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Just to clarify the manner in which a flywheel is pulled, you will need either an OMC puller (available at your OMC/Bombardier dealer) or a decent harmonic type puller. Do not use any other kind of puller because you can break the flywheel.

The nut on the top of the crankshaft is most easily removed with a pneumatic impact driver. If you have one or have access to one, you will not need a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. The three bolt holes that surround the crankshaft are for the puller. Once the crankshaft nut is off, use hardened bolts of the right size, thread count and depth to fasten the puller to the flywheel. It is very important that the threaded length on the bolt be the proper length. You will be putting a fair amount of stress on the threads in the flywheel, which is aluminum, and they will strip if there is not enough of them gripping the bolts. To remove the flywheel, use the center bolt on the puller to draw it up, off of the crankshaft taper.

Once the flywheel is off, you will have open access to the coils, condensors and points. As I said before, I recommend taking the coils for testing because that is the only way you are going to know (unless you know how to test them yourself) if they are good.

When you reinstall the flywheel, make sure that the key in the crankshaft taper is properly positioned and that the flywheel is properly positioned in place. Before doing this, make sure that there is no grease or oil on the taper or the inside mating surface of the flywheel. With a rubber or leather mallet (don't use a hammer or other solid metal object) to tap the flywheel down - don't beat it, just seat it firmly. Although you can use an impact driver to tighten the flywheel nut, doing so is something that you get a feel for - it has to be "tight enough" but overtightening it just makes it harder to get off the next time. If you don't feel comfortable "guestimating" this, use the strap wrench and a torque wrench to set at the exact value called for in the manual.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Don't guess at the proper torque spec for the nut. Use a torque wrench and set to 40-45 ft/lbs. Otherwise, you may shear the woodruff key.

 

[steelespike]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Before going farther do a spark check.pull the plugs and check for spark.
Just use a rope with a knot to pull it over.Spark should have a strong blue snap.Run the motor and if it fails check the spark again.
I'm wondering if the problem is a fuel supply carb gets empty
and fills as it sits.??(pressure system)

 

[F_R]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Undertightening the nut will cause the key to shear and will probably damage the flywheel and crankshaft. Overtightening will cause the tapered flywheel hub to spread, destroying the flywheel. It is not something to guess at....use a torque wrench!!!!

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

LOL, I knew you guys were gonna yell at me for that. My other sin is that I don't change water pump impellers annually!

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

Don't worry Jay, I change my impellers rarely also! But the first engine that blows cause of it will probably change my opinion!

 

[corbett79]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

I just now got around to replacing the coils (didn't get them checked). I also had to replace the rewind spring because it broke from so many pulls I put on it...I put everything back together, but now it seems that something isn't right with the starter mechanism.

When I give the starter cord a slight pull (not to try and crank, just to see if I reinstalled this correctly), the throttle on the tiller handle seems to get stuck, or is hard to rotate from the stop position to the full position. When I attempt to rotate the throttle slightly to see/hear what is going on, I hear a knocking sound when the throttle gets stuck. Something on the magneto isn't jiving with the starting mechanism.

I haven't looked at it much yet, but thought I would get some feedback before going in blindly.

Thanks again!

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1957 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP cd-14

The coils are not adjusted properly and are hitting the inside of the flywheel when you turn it. You will have to remove the flywheel and ensure the coils are lined up with the embossed part they attach to. Someone will have a photo to post to show it probably.